Heated grips.

EricV

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As Nikolajsen suggested, grease, not WD40. I used a silicone brake grease that I already had. Won't eat the plastic/rubber and stays slippery. Others have used white lithium grease too, which is a very common grease used by OEMs on motorcycle applications in a wide variety of applications.
 

Dshane

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As Nikolajsen suggested, grease, not WD40. I used a silicone brake grease that I already had. Won't eat the plastic/rubber and stays slippery. Others have used white lithium grease too, which is a very common grease used by OEMs on motorcycle applications in a wide variety of applications.
Thank you EricV
 

T4ten

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Don't worry about the resistance value at this point. You are using the ohm scale, but really just performing a continuity test, which showed that the circuit was not broken in the grips. In terms of diagnostic process, you have eliminated the grips themselves as the problem. This would suggest power is not being supplied to the grips, or the ECU is not seeing power at the grips.

Because the display does not show the heated grips, it's not recognizing that they are hooked up, or that circuit has no power. imho, most likely the latter.

Check fuse #12 O/P Option fuse in the main fuse block under the side panel. I don't know if this fuse covers the heated grips, but it would make sense that it does. After that, check the relays for obvious signs of heat or corrosion.
So... All fuses and connections checked out. Revisited the continuity/resistance and a friend identified that whilst both grips have continuity, the left grip has a resistance of 1.5 and the right 2.3. I believe this identified the right grip as faulty and have just dropped £180.00 on a new one. Hopefully the installation will be pretty straightforward using the advice here. Also buying a better multimeter! Many thanks for your help with this.
 

EricV

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Interesting discovery. Have you removed the right side grip housing to see if there is an obvious indication of damage to the wires? Typical failure has been a wire getting broken, so loss of continuity was a solid indicator. It would be educational for future forum users to learn what you find.
 

T4ten

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Interesting discovery. Have you removed the right side grip housing to see if there is an obvious indication of damage to the wires? Typical failure has been a wire getting broken, so loss of continuity was a solid indicator. It would be educational for future forum users to learn what you find.
Gonna take about a week to arrive. I will then have a look in the housing and report back with my findings. What I am expecting to find is a damaged cable rather than a severed one. This would explain still having continuity but more resistance...I think
 

T4ten

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Gonna take about a week to arrive. I will then have a look in the housing and report back with my findings. What I am expecting to find is a damaged cable rather than a severed one. This would explain still having continuity but more resistance...I think
Grip arrived today. Confirmed it showed 1.5ohms resistance. Dismantled current grip and was unable to see obvious damage but it did show 2.4ohms so something amiss. Seems a ridiculous way of routing the cable and inviting damage... But it is what it is. Connected new grip and immediately recognised on dash so happy bunny. I think if it goes again then the Oxford grips will be the way forward, especially as I now understand that they will be recognised the dash. Thanks for all the helpful comments.
 

EricV

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Grip arrived today. Confirmed it showed 1.5ohms resistance. Dismantled current grip and was unable to see obvious damage but it did show 2.4ohms so something amiss. Seems a ridiculous way of routing the cable and inviting damage... But it is what it is. Connected new grip and immediately recognised on dash so happy bunny. I think if it goes again then the Oxford grips will be the way forward, especially as I now understand that they will be recognised the dash. Thanks for all the helpful comments.
Glad you solved your problem. Please link to where you found info that suggests that the Oxford grips will be recognized by the dash. My understanding is that the Oxfords are too high of a resistance to register with the OEM dash/ECU. And FWIW, there are many different versions of Oxford heated grips, including lower output scooter versions, etc. So knowing which version someone is suggesting is important too.
 

thughes317

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Glad you solved your problem. Please link to where you found info that suggests that the Oxford grips will be recognized by the dash. My understanding is that the Oxfords are too high of a resistance to register with the OEM dash/ECU. And FWIW, there are many different versions of Oxford heated grips, including lower output scooter versions, etc. So knowing which version someone is suggesting is important too.
 

Saint rob

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Glad you solved your problem. Please link to where you found info that suggests that the Oxford grips will be recognized by the dash. My understanding is that the Oxfords are too high of a resistance to register with the OEM dash/ECU. And FWIW, there are many different versions of Oxford heated grips, including lower output scooter versions, etc. So knowing which version someone is suggesting is important too.
It was the Oxford Adventure grips that I used, all now controlled through the menu switch and appearing on the dash with the deeper menu available to set the heat levels for low,medium&high
 

Eville Rich

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A question had recently popped up about installing Oxford grips. I'm adding to this thread to share some pics of my install from several years ago. Hopefully useful for someone. I'd originally wired them directly to the battery, which was fine. But shifted over to my PDM60 when I installed that. Only powered with the ignition turned on. I set a 10 second delay before the grips or aux lights can come on to avoid too much load when I fire it up. The grips don't really matter for the delay as they don't turn on by themselves. The key install feature is that the wire for the throttle side needs to be pointed up to avoid interference with throttle operations. Give the wire enough slack to move through the throttle range. Otherwise normal grip install subject to watch wire runs and avoiding interference with clutch operations.

After taking the pics, I'm realizing I want to close off the sleeve that holds the controller wires. They want to slide down, exposing the wires near the the controller. Haven't had an issue with water or anything to-date.

20210930_175656[1].jpg20210930_175724[1].jpg20210930_175739[1].jpg20210930_175759[1].jpg20210930_175805[1].jpg



Eville Rich
2016 S10
 

eram310

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Guys and Girls

I have an issue with my OEM heated grips on my 2015 Super T ES.

I lose the heated grips display intermittently. (Now it’s completely missing) I noticed it in the spring, but only now, in the fall decided to try to take care of this issue after reading the thread here.

At first, I ohmed out the right grey connector and it was completely open. The left black one read 2.4Ω.

I was happy that I only need to buy the right grip. Before putting things together again and after looking at the wires on the grip side (looks good) I decided to spray electric contact cleaner, loosen the zip ties, and shake the wires a bit. Used my voltmeter to check for ohms again and this time around I get the following.

  • Left Black reads 2.4Ω. Spec from shop manual 1.21-1.48 Ω
  • Right grey reads 1.8Ω. Spec from shop manual 1.17-1.43 Ω
I still don’t see the display of the heated grips.

I didn’t think that out of spec ohm readings would be the issue. I thought I would get a complete open.

Maybe I didn’t get a good reading first time around, but now I definitely do.



What are your thoughts?



Thank you,
 

eram310

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Anyone on my problem below? Do I need to buy both the right and left heated grips?

It's staring to get cold here.

Thank you,





Guys and Girls

I have an issue with my OEM heated grips on my 2015 Super T ES.

I lose the heated grips display intermittently. (Now it’s completely missing) I noticed it in the spring, but only now, in the fall decided to try to take care of this issue after reading the thread here.

At first, I ohmed out the right grey connector and it was completely open. The left black one read 2.4Ω.

I was happy that I only need to buy the right grip. Before putting things together again and after looking at the wires on the grip side (looks good) I decided to spray electric contact cleaner, loosen the zip ties, and shake the wires a bit. Used my voltmeter to check for ohms again and this time around I get the following.

  • Left Black reads 2.4Ω. Spec from shop manual 1.21-1.48 Ω
  • Right grey reads 1.8Ω. Spec from shop manual 1.17-1.43 Ω
I still don’t see the display of the heated grips.

I didn’t think that out of spec ohm readings would be the issue. I thought I would get a complete open.

Maybe I didn’t get a good reading first time around, but now I definitely do.



What are your thoughts?



Thank you,
 

T4ten

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Location
York, UK
Anyone on my problem below? Do I need to buy both the right and left heated grips?

It's staring to get cold here.

Thank you,
Hi. From my experience, as related previously in this thread, both of your grips are showing too high a resistance. Although the manual gives the upper resistance as 1.48, when I bought the right one it showed 1.5 out the box and when I replaced this, found it worked and checked the left grip, it also showed 1.5, so a little leeway seems to be built in. That said, whilst I'm sure the 2.4 is faulty I can't be definite about the 1.8. You may be as well replacing the 2.4 and seeing if that works for you, it might save you a few quid. Also can't recall which colour plug is which grip so might be worth checking that out before splashing the cash. Hope that helps.
 

Longdog Cymru

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Jul 21, 2018
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Swansea, Wales, UK
I have a 2017 non-ES bike and I have fitted Oxford heated grips and they work well. I use the Oxford controller and mine are wired into the battery, however, I seem to recall reading on here that the Oxford grips can be wired into the Yamaha connectors on the right hand side of the bike as you sit on it. I haven’t been able to find the post covering this and I have just read through all 11 pages of this thread.
I have a couple of questions, if I can connect to the Yamaha connectors, then do I still use the Oxford controller or will connecting to the wiring loom activate the grip control in the menu? I am guessing the Yamaha loom will give a switched live? If anyone reading this has connected Oxford grips to the Yamaha connectors, then can you either post some pictures or give me a link to the posts that do? Thanks in advance for any help and advice.
 

Saint rob

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May 26, 2019
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I have a 2017 non-ES bike and I have fitted Oxford heated grips and they work well. I use the Oxford controller and mine are wired into the battery, however, I seem to recall reading on here that the Oxford grips can be wired into the Yamaha connectors on the right hand side of the bike as you sit on it. I haven’t been able to find the post covering this and I have just read through all 11 pages of this thread.
I have a couple of questions, if I can connect to the Yamaha connectors, then do I still use the Oxford controller or will connecting to the wiring loom activate the grip control in the menu? I am guessing the Yamaha loom will give a switched live? If anyone reading this has connected Oxford grips to the Yamaha connectors, then can you either post some pictures or give me a link to the posts that do? Thanks in advance for any help and advice.
There's a link to my post in reply 208 above
Heated Grips | Page 2 | Yamaha Super Tenere Forum
 
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