I seem to recall seeing one a couple years ago. Simple clip on jobbie that'd help push the rad heat outboard a bit more, saving the rider's left leg from baking. Damned if I can find such an animal now. 
Has anyone seen a radiator heat deflector for the Tenere?
- Thread starter sportsguy
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This looks like a$$, but it was 30 minutes with a heat gun and some kydex. This would hardly be considered a working version, as I can't decide how to "mount" it. If you've ever had this panel off, you'll know it's not as easy as simply drilling holes into the rad cover panel, as its a very odd shape on the back and layered with bits to disassemble. Plus I'm not sure I want to put any holes there...or anywhere.
Going to try a spring hooked into the rad cover and pulling down on the unit. Hoping if I get the right tension, it'll keep the bottom edge clicked into the groove. Small blue hose in the first pic is simply to fill space and help keep the angle correct. Just need to glue it in place once the rest is sorted.
Anyway, you get the idea of what I'm trying to do - function first, then form later, maybe...
You can see here where I had a zip tie in place to help hold the unit in place - worked for a few minutes, but as I applied pressure, like air at speed would, it flexed the zip tie and things got loose and floppy. And no one likes loose and floppy...
More of a frontal view - you can see how this easily allows you to hide a leg behind it and will direct the hot air more outward, and I hope, around my leg.
One option I'm thinking of is to angle it backwards a bit more to allow it to lay flat against the angle in the rad panel. This would allow me to add double sided tape to hold it in place, but...because the angle is flatter, there's more chance that the hot air will still find my leg - we'll see, as I could also add a small kickout on the final, mounted product to push the air outwards.
Going to try a spring hooked into the rad cover and pulling down on the unit. Hoping if I get the right tension, it'll keep the bottom edge clicked into the groove. Small blue hose in the first pic is simply to fill space and help keep the angle correct. Just need to glue it in place once the rest is sorted.
Anyway, you get the idea of what I'm trying to do - function first, then form later, maybe...
You can see here where I had a zip tie in place to help hold the unit in place - worked for a few minutes, but as I applied pressure, like air at speed would, it flexed the zip tie and things got loose and floppy. And no one likes loose and floppy...
More of a frontal view - you can see how this easily allows you to hide a leg behind it and will direct the hot air more outward, and I hope, around my leg.
One option I'm thinking of is to angle it backwards a bit more to allow it to lay flat against the angle in the rad panel. This would allow me to add double sided tape to hold it in place, but...because the angle is flatter, there's more chance that the hot air will still find my leg - we'll see, as I could also add a small kickout on the final, mounted product to push the air outwards.
caillou
New Member
That is strange because I was thinking Yamaha did a very good job with the radiator vent since I do feel almost no heat with this bike, including when the fan is running...
Ryan G.
I ride for pie
Its 110 degree air blowing on your knee. I don't feel it if I'm wearing pants with a padded knee. But jeans when the temps are above 80, its a problem. Its great in the winter time though. Thats why any deflector should be removable. I think the deflector only has to stick out about 2 inches.
yz454
Member
PUSSY .
There it is!yz454 said:
I was wondering when someone was going to call me on this. mean, I LOVE BBQ, so what's the problem, right?
Ride an S10 in 100 degree heat for an hour or more and it starts to build up. Your cloths and leg can start to get heat soaked. Much better with gear on, but even then it can be noticed. But hey, if you're a rider who rides in those temps and doesn't notice it, so much the better for you. Others do notice it, and I, for one, am searching for a fix ahead of a long trip through high-temp areas.
I was certain I saw an actual product for this a couple years ago, but guessing it may be gone form the market now as I simply can't find it, and so far no one here has noted seeing one either.
Tyke
New Member
Well it might be August but here in the U.K we are still waiting for summertime to arrive, temperatures are currently averaging about 17c ???
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
You may want to contact Tabasco, he made something back in 2012.....
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=5622.0
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=5622.0
PM sent! Thank you.Dogdaze said:
Ramseybella
Well-Known Member
Oh come on the BMW Air Head guys can take it on both ends!!
This can't be to hard if you don't mind drilling a few small mounting holes into your side cover and some black push rivets.
This can't be to hard if you don't mind drilling a few small mounting holes into your side cover and some black push rivets.
EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
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@sportsguy - Didn't we have this discussion about heat on the FJR in Nakusp, B.C.? Stop wearing jeans and speed up. The only time I notice the heat off the radiator is when I'm stuck in traffic. But I never ride w/o riding pants. No mesh either.
So, are you commuting on the S10? In work/street pants? If yes, stop that and the problem is solved. Kudos to you for playing with ideas and I hope it helps, but simply adjusting your apparel is easier. Especially for your stated desire to not drill any holes anywhere.
In regards to your attempts. I do wonder if the Kydex will deform from the radiator heat when the fan kicks on. Moving, probably not as much of an issue, but with a lot of slow speed/stopped in SeaTac traffic, I could see that panel re-shaping itself some. If you find a shape that works well for you, you might consider re-creating it in aluminum and having it coated with a ceramic thermal barrier coating. I've used this on manifolds and exhaust pipes to keep heat out of the engine bay and flowing down the exhaust pipe with some success. Google "ceramic coatings" and I believe you will find a shop in your area. Performanc Coatings is in Auburn and has a very good rep. I've used another shop outside Portland in the past as well.
The only time I notice the heat off the radiator is when I'm stuck in traffic. But I never ride w/o riding pants. No mesh either.So, are you commuting on the S10? In work/street pants? If yes, stop that and the problem is solved. Kudos to you for playing with ideas and I hope it helps, but simply adjusting your apparel is easier. Especially for your stated desire to not drill any holes anywhere.
In regards to your attempts. I do wonder if the Kydex will deform from the radiator heat when the fan kicks on. Moving, probably not as much of an issue, but with a lot of slow speed/stopped in SeaTac traffic, I could see that panel re-shaping itself some. If you find a shape that works well for you, you might consider re-creating it in aluminum and having it coated with a ceramic thermal barrier coating. I've used this on manifolds and exhaust pipes to keep heat out of the engine bay and flowing down the exhaust pipe with some success. Google "ceramic coatings" and I believe you will find a shop in your area. Performanc Coatings is in Auburn and has a very good rep. I've used another shop outside Portland in the past as well.
Filling in some blanks...EricV said:@sportsguy - Didn't we have this discussion about heat on the FJR in Nakusp, B.C.? Stop wearing jeans and speed up.
So, are you commuting on the S10? In work/street pants? If yes, stop that and the problem is solved. Kudos to you for playing with ideas and I hope it helps, but simply adjusting your apparel is easier. Especially for your stated desire to not drill any holes anywhere.
In regards to your attempts. I do wonder if the Kydex will deform from the radiator heat when the fan kicks on. Moving, probably not as much of an issue, but with a lot of slow speed/stopped in SeaTac traffic, I could see that panel re-shaping itself some. If you find a shape that works well for you, you might consider re-creating it in aluminum and having it coated with a ceramic thermal barrier coating. I've used this on manifolds and exhaust pipes to keep heat out of the engine bay and flowing down the exhaust pipe with some success. Google "ceramic coatings" and I believe you will find a shop in your area. Performanc Coatings is in Auburn and has a very good rep. I've used another shop outside Portland in the past as well.
~ Noticing the heat issue while at speeds between 40 - 65/70 mph - so mostly when on long highway rides in my case.
~ Not commuting on the bike.
~ ATGATT
So jeans, not an issue as I'm in full riding gear. This seems to be a "heat soaking" issue to me, so I'm going to play with what I wear under my riding pants to see if that helps, too - maybe wear my LDComfort "long" pants instead of the LDComfort "shorts"...etc.~ Now wondering if it's a posture related issue - am I splaying my legs and maybe a change in posture will solve the problem?
~ I expect the Kydex may deform - thought of that as I was using heat to form it yesterday.
I have some sheets of aluminum in the garage for V(next) if I progress with this, but given limited time during the week to work on it and my departure for Cali on the horizon, I may not have enough time over the coming weeks to sort it out. *shrugs*~ Another solution I thought of is to simply wrap my lower leg (to the knee) in something reflective. Maybe reform my tin-foil hat to be a tin-foil heat deflector/shin guard.
fredz43
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I think that is it. I normally ride with my knees close to the tank and the only time I can feel any heat on my legs is if I purposely splay my left leg out to see if I can feel any heat and there it is. Since I don't ride that way, it is no problem. After owning 3 ST1300's it feels wonderful to not have a heat problem any more.sportsguy said:
Ordered a set of the Leatt knee guards. Cheap insurance, IMO, to add to my Fieldsheer pants.FredBGG said:
fredz43 said:
+1
70 minutes today at about 50 - 60 mph. 80 degrees, no noticeable hot spots formed.
Tested the Delorme Inreach SE to see if it would track me as intended. Yup. Pings every 10 minutes and as easy to view as clicking the link that showed up in the email I send from the unit when I started out. Slight learning curve to get it to start, but that's on me not using the unit enough prior to this.
She was loaded for the trip with everything except spare fuses. Handled very well, thanks to the upgraded Touratech suspension.
Naturally, 10 minutes form home, I see a motorcyclist pulled over. I stop to see if he's OK and he says he's been blowing fuses and he's unsure why. Doesn't need help as he has spares, but was impressed I stopped. I didn't have the heart to explain that the ONE thing I didn't have with me was...spare fuses... Regardless, he was confident and sent me on my way with a wave and a smile.
Tinkered with the angles on the MRA windscreen on the madstadd and seem to have found a happy place. That's likely to change when I strap the Airhawk on the seat, however. No biggie - simple to pull the screen slightly higher.
Tested the Platypus 2litre water bladder I dropped into the Giant Loop Fandango tank bag. Still room in the bag for other things and the hose is easily long enough to reach me. I added an accessory "dirt cover" on the bite valve and it's perfect for not only keeping the bite valve clean, but to jam into sundry spaces on the left side of the handle bars to hold it in reach.
FINALLY might be getting the Omni Cruise to work, too. Every time I try it, it just lets the throttle unwind. I've tightened the thing down so much I fear breaking it. Now I'm at the point where I can set it, hold the throttle lightly (literally rest my hand on it) and it'll hold speed. Still easy enough to roll "off" Maybe I'm just not clamping it down tight enough. I bought fresh rubber bands in the two sizes offered (and they threw in a couple extra as a thanks), so I know the rubber band side of the equation is sorted.
Getting close to ready to go!
I do think I need to get the guys to eyeball my rear shock, though. Noticed yesterday a light film of fluid on the body of the shock. Haven't noticed it before this because, honestly, I've never changed the settings. Recently, though, I've been testing the settings to optimize for comfort on the highway and manage the load in the twisties. Not sure there is actually any issue here, as the fluid (dusted with road dirt) could easily have been there for the last year plus. But now is the time to check.)
Tested the Delorme Inreach SE to see if it would track me as intended. Yup. Pings every 10 minutes and as easy to view as clicking the link that showed up in the email I send from the unit when I started out. Slight learning curve to get it to start, but that's on me not using the unit enough prior to this.
She was loaded for the trip with everything except spare fuses. Handled very well, thanks to the upgraded Touratech suspension.
Naturally, 10 minutes form home, I see a motorcyclist pulled over. I stop to see if he's OK and he says he's been blowing fuses and he's unsure why. Doesn't need help as he has spares, but was impressed I stopped. I didn't have the heart to explain that the ONE thing I didn't have with me was...spare fuses... Regardless, he was confident and sent me on my way with a wave and a smile.
Tinkered with the angles on the MRA windscreen on the madstadd and seem to have found a happy place. That's likely to change when I strap the Airhawk on the seat, however. No biggie - simple to pull the screen slightly higher.
Tested the Platypus 2litre water bladder I dropped into the Giant Loop Fandango tank bag. Still room in the bag for other things and the hose is easily long enough to reach me. I added an accessory "dirt cover" on the bite valve and it's perfect for not only keeping the bite valve clean, but to jam into sundry spaces on the left side of the handle bars to hold it in reach.
FINALLY might be getting the Omni Cruise to work, too. Every time I try it, it just lets the throttle unwind. I've tightened the thing down so much I fear breaking it. Now I'm at the point where I can set it, hold the throttle lightly (literally rest my hand on it) and it'll hold speed. Still easy enough to roll "off" Maybe I'm just not clamping it down tight enough. I bought fresh rubber bands in the two sizes offered (and they threw in a couple extra as a thanks), so I know the rubber band side of the equation is sorted.
Getting close to ready to go!
I do think I need to get the guys to eyeball my rear shock, though. Noticed yesterday a light film of fluid on the body of the shock. Haven't noticed it before this because, honestly, I've never changed the settings. Recently, though, I've been testing the settings to optimize for comfort on the highway and manage the load in the twisties. Not sure there is actually any issue here, as the fluid (dusted with road dirt) could easily have been there for the last year plus. But now is the time to check.)
scott123007
Well-Known Member
I read through this thread and am not sure if you cured your problem by wearing the right gear, or adjusting your riding position, or both. At any rate, the deflector you made is only a hole on each side of the notch, and a tie wrap through them and around the engine guard from being secure.sportsguy said:This looks like a$$, but it was 30 minutes with a heat gun and some kydex. This would hardly be considered a working version, as I can't decide how to "mount" it. If you've ever had this panel off, you'll know it's not as easy as simply drilling holes into the rad cover panel, as its a very odd shape on the back and layered with bits to disassemble. Plus I'm not sure I want to put any holes there...or anywhere.
Going to try a spring hooked into the rad cover and pulling down on the unit. Hoping if I get the right tension, it'll keep the bottom edge clicked into the groove. Small blue hose in the first pic is simply to fill space and help keep the angle correct. Just need to glue it in place once the rest is sorted.
Anyway, you get the idea of what I'm trying to do - function first, then form later, maybe...
You can see here where I had a zip tie in place to help hold the unit in place - worked for a few minutes, but as I applied pressure, like air at speed would, it flexed the zip tie and things got loose and floppy. And no one likes loose and floppy...
More of a frontal view - you can see how this easily allows you to hide a leg behind it and will direct the hot air more outward, and I hope, around my leg.
One option I'm thinking of is to angle it backwards a bit more to allow it to lay flat against the angle in the rad panel. This would allow me to add double sided tape to hold it in place, but...because the angle is flatter, there's more chance that the hot air will still find my leg - we'll see, as I could also add a small kickout on the final, mounted product to push the air outwards.
The "problem" isn't cured. I ride with full gear, so that's as covered as it can be (as am I).scott123007 said:
Riding position may help - don't know - only tried to resolve this issue in the last few days, so the real test is fire-ridden California on my upcoming trip.
I can see a few ways to secure the scoop I fashioned, though I also ordered new knee braces today, so if those fit/are comfortable, I'll probably use them, skip the scoop and have the added protection.
That said, I like the idea of having the scoop in place, so the idea may live on!
Ryan G.
I ride for pie
Hey, the fact is our Tenere's blow hot air out the left side and it can get uncomfortable on your knee. Any argument denying that is stupid. I'd rather be a "PUSSY" then stupid. Also, thats great advice about proper riding gear, thanks MOM. A small air deflector is a good idea.
EricV
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Yes, the Super Ten blows hot air out the left side. If you're noticing that to the point where it's bothering you, you're doing it wrong. That't the point of the gear comments. And you're forgetting that some of us know each other here, from other forums, going back a decade or more. So maybe you didn't see the inside joke or don't know the people involved, so lighten up.Ryan G. said:
Hot weather and mesh gear are a bad combination. Over the body's normal temp, ~96F, all that air flow is not cooling you, just sucking body moisture out of you faster and creating dehydration potential, depending on the length of the ride. Sort of works the same way if it's cooler, but the air blowing on you is hotter, like from the radiator fan. Not all gear is equal, and just saying ATGATT doesn't necessarily mean what some consider appropriate gear for the conditions.
The simple truth is some people are more sensitive to heat than others. Every bike forum for bikes over 100 Hp has threads about heat. ST1300 & FJR1300 to mention two notable ones. Some riders scream about it, others barely notice. Much, not all, of that has a lot to do with the gear they are wearing. When these threads come up, it's hard not to recall the biggest whining guy from the FJR forum that happened to be some rider in FL wearing shorts and boat shoes, riding 35 mpg on the blvd back and forth in traffic. When he eventually came clean about that, everyone understood his perspective, but also thought he was a fool to bitch about riding a 145 Hp bike slowly in traffic in shorts and it being hot.
Before you respond to my post, consider I just might have a few more miles on the Super Ten than you do. In all conditions.