Hard to shift into neutral after clutch fluid service

Navycrewbrother

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Hey All,
So about two weeks ago I bled and serviced all three brake discs and flushed and filled the clutch fluid. The DOT4 in the clutch was crazy dirty, and we flushed it all out and got clean DOT4 in there. Since then, shifting into neutral has been very difficult. After starting it in 1st (or shifting to N before I start in order to warm it up), it requires a lot of upward force to shift into N, much more than before I serviced the clutch. The clutch and friction zone feel the same. Shifting while riding requires a little bit more firm pressure, but it shifts with a definitive click. Shifting into N seems to get easier throughout a ride, but it’s always quite a bit more difficult that before the service, and much stickier than I’ve had on other bikes. Is this a result of air in the system? I’m 99% sure I didn’t get any air in there, but I suppose its a non-zero chance. Any ideas what this could be? Thanks.
 

EricV

Riding, farkling, riding...
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Sounds like just air in the clutch line. Due to the tiny reservoir, it's stupid easy to get some air in and notoriously hard to get it out. The metal junction at the bottom of the clutch line tends to trap an air bubble. Open the reservoir top, remove the rubber insert. Cover that area with a clean shop rag or something else to avoid any foreign stuff getting in there.

Now, S-l-o-w-l-y squeeze the clutch lever and tie it to the grip. A bungee cord works well, but anything secure works.

Now tap the clutch line at all junctions, working from the bottom to the top. Leave it like this over night. Button everything back up and give it a try.

This works 90% of the time.
 

Navycrewbrother

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Well, it looks like I fell victim to the “post hoc ergo propter hoc” fallacy. I cleaned and lubed the shifter pivot bolt. It had a ton of crud on it and inside the hole in the lever where the bolt goes through. Cleared it right up. I thought because I noticed it after servicing the clutch, that was the cause. However, I’m glad to learn about that trick to get air out. I thought I would have to completely redo the bleed and service if I got air in the line.
 

EricV

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Glad to hear you sorted the problem. Good job on following thru with the easy stuff first. :) Several people here have installed a zirc fitting on the shifter so you can just grease it every oil change or as needed. There is a groove in the shaft, so that works pretty well. I did that on my '12, but have not gotten around to doing it on my '15.
 

worncog

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As an added note, IMO the clutch reservoir 'should' be flushed annually. This is not standard, but I also had the 'dirty' reservoir and sketchy clutch lever function until I thoroughly flushed system. Symptoms have not returned since accelerating flushing schedule. Rebuild kit still on shelf two years later. And yes, that small volume is a bear to flush easily.
 

Checkswrecks

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This is a safety issue. Yamaha should put a sealed bearing in and be done with it.
No, the inability to downshift is not a safety issue. There's no risk of

.. uncontrolled acceleration,
.. loss of directional control,
.. or impact on braking.

And you still have the ability to pull over and decelerate under control through use of the clutch, kill switch, or even the key.
 
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