Hard starting and other problems

mileageman

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I did not post on the forum to prove anyone wrong. I know very little about electrical theory. Perhaps I am using the wrong terminology, lets just call it interference. I have worked on many motorcycles and cars over the past 50 years. This I do know - when I put my finger on the harness and was able to move the throttle bodies rapidly I have a direct and absolute one to one correspondence of cause and effect. Therefore I have identified the problem. After checking for shorts and bad connections there is only one other possible solution which is interference. I did not ground the foil because it was not necessary.

I just hope that others whom are having the same problems will give my method a try. That way they can be happy riding instead of wasting time with technicians and dealerships who cannot seem to rectify the problems.
 

Checkswrecks

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Like I have said repeatedly, I'm glad that you've found something which has worked for you. One small item - I and others have mentioned multiple possible causes resulting from your action so it's not a cause.


Until there is a specific explanation for what you've made happen, you have identified a symptom. [font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Sort of like going to the doctor and saying the pain stops when you hold your arm in a certain position is a symptom. He could tell you to just keep your arm in that position without really knowing why it works and your arm will heal with time. A cause is when he diagnoses that you tore a specific ligament. At that point he might specify a specific treatment such as physical therapy or even surgery to address the root cause, so you heal faster and are less likely to re-injure it.[/font]

[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Again, please don't take the "word-needing" as a criticism, because for whatever reason you're making progress. [/font]
 

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
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Don't know if this falls under the classic description of a hard start, but my bike has recently been acting as if the battery is already getting worn out. Slow cranking, requiring a few more revolutions than before to fire. So far it has always started though. Only 6 months old and 10,860 miles. Maybe it's the cooler weather?
 

Juan

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WJBertrand said:
Don't know if this falls under the classic description of a hard start, but my bike has recently been acting as if the battery is already getting worn out. Slow cranking, requiring a few more revolutions than before to fire. So far it has always started though. Only 6 months old and 10,860 miles. Maybe it's the cooler weather?
Cooler weather means thicker oil and this requires a little more effort to crank. Make sure you're using the right oil SAE for the cooler weather. Neutral gear together with a pulled clutch leaver helps as this reduces friction to the minimum. In fact I always start that way - cold or warm weather. A 6 month old battery (OEM Yuasa) is a pretty 'young' battery, unless it has been badly treated.
 

Checkswrecks

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New or old, temperature greatly affects batteries as well.





(Dang I need a life.)
;)
 

Juan

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Checkswrecks said:
New or old, temperature greatly affects batteries as well.





(Dang I need a life.)
;)
Surely the Battery age in the graph is in months not years :)
 

WJBertrand

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Though the weather is cooler, it's nowhere near the temps in that graph. SoCal after all. I do have 10w-50 in there, but it's synthetic and should act the same as a 10w-30 or -40 when cold. I've put the bike on the battery tender and will disconnect it immediately before the next start up to see if that affects starting. If not, it's got to be something else.


-Jeff
 

AVGeek

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WJBertrand said:
Though the weather is cooler, it's nowhere near the temps in that graph. SoCal after all. I do have 10w-50 in there, but it's synthetic and should act the same as a 10w-30 or -40 when cold. I've put the bike on the battery tender and will disconnect it immediately before the next start up to see if that affects starting. If not, it's got to be something else.


-Jeff
Check your battery connections as well. They sometimes loosen up.
 

Checkswrecks

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WJBertrand said:
Though the weather is cooler, it's nowhere near the temps in that graph. SoCal after all. I do have 10w-50 in there, but it's synthetic and should act the same as a 10w-30 or -40 when cold. I've put the bike on the battery tender and will disconnect it immediately before the next start up to see if that affects starting. If not, it's got to be something else.


-Jeff
The graph is in Centigrade, so 15C is 59F. Southern Cal got colder than that when I lived there.
The point was simply that the battery will not be able to spin the starter as fast as things cool down.
 

WJBertrand

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Checkswrecks said:
The graph is in Centigrade, so 15C is 59F. Southern Cal got colder than that when I lived there.
The point was simply that the battery will not be able to spin the starter as fast as things cool down.
Indeed, then those temperatures are relevant. So we've had temps into the low 40s - high 30s, though I have not tried to ride in the latter and the bike is parked in a garage at night and temps in there were definitely into the 50s. Never noticed the sensitivity to temperature with my ST1300.
 

Buckeroo Brad

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Bellville, TX
Well, trying to figure out which one of these forums to vent MY issues on this problem is cornfoosing. I posted the last work here: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=2895.60
Then one day it wouldn't start. So I charged the battery. Even with the trickle charger plugged in, the bike would not start. So back to the shop it went. After a strange conversation with Yamaha techs, the service manager was told told to replace the wiring harness under warranty. Thus they did and it did start every time, but was running rough. I rode it home, a 15 mile trip. In sport mode the bike is a bit jumpy and hitting bumps in the road occasionally it jumps when my hand twitches. But my hand didn't twitch; what was that? A little further along the bike surged forward again. But instead of surging, it was losing power. The average mileage would drop to low 20's then surge with a lot of power, but the rpm's did not increase. The bike felt like it was firing the second cylinder and zoom,away I went. I could tell when it would cycle and determined that it was running on one cylinder, then suddenly fire, surge ahead, and repeat. On the trip back, I used 5 gallons of gas for 30 miles. In the previous fix, the shop had calibrated my throttle bodies. I have to admit that they have tried a number of things to fix this bike, but they are as confused as I am. And they say the conversations with Yamaha are strange. The plug the bike into a computer and there are NO error codes. They ordered a new battery which did not changed anything. This last weekend the store manager rode the bike all weekend with a carbon cleaner running through it. They are now experiencing all the issues that before were intermittent. I think the wiring harness was part of the problem. I think the throttle bodies out of sync were part of the problem. I think there is something else now that is also a problem. It seems electrical to me. The bike runs rough, cuts out when the clutch is engaged, seems to run one one cylinder, surges when running on both cylinders, backfires (not excessively), uses lots of gas. I hate to say it, but I think the computer is either trying to adjust for strange information its receiving, or it is issuing strange information. After this, I guess I get Yamaha to buy the bike back. I am the 3rd owner of this 2012 bike. The first owner sold it because he wanted a trike. The second owner changes out bikes every year and is a friend of mine that feels absolutely horrible at selling me a lemon. The fact is, I wanted the bike and thought I was saving myself 5k from buying a new S10. When the bike works right, it is fun.
 

Buckeroo Brad

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Bellville, TX
The latest in this saga is the factory has authorized the dealer to continue searching on Yamaha's dime, of which I am glad. This mechanic is determined to fix this bike. I sent him this forum and the pictures. He says it is reasonable that this might be the real problem. But what nobody understands is why it waits so long to go bad. I have seen some comments about connections gone bad. Well I have a brand new wiring harness and a brand new glass mat battery and it still has the problems. It just has them more consistently now. Currently they are going after the O2 sensors and taking the import lean settings off the bike. I may end up doing the wiring fix, but we will see.
 

Buckeroo Brad

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Bellville, TX
I promised Milageman that I would post all the things that Yamaha did to my bike to finally solve my problems. To say the least, there was more than one thing wrong. I expect that most of you probably have had more than one thing wrong. The largest problem I started with was finding a Yamaha shop willing to take on a project bike. I live near Houston, TX, but not in it. All of the Yamaha shops I connected with did not want a Project Bike. That said, my hat is off to Columbus Outfitters/Yamaha. They have a good reputation, especially to bikers broke down along I-10 between San Antonio and Houston. They will work on any bike, including Harley's. This is a long post, but it is the entire story covering about 7 months.

My bike first went in last October 2015. The comments below are from the Shop managers report:
10/24/2015, Miles 21,250

"Customer reports erratic idle and operation engine speed changes without rider input.
Requested symptom diagnostic and tune up.

1) Valve Clearance Check-
Cyl #1 intake: .005" exhaust: .008"
Cyl #2 intake: .005" exhaust: .009"
SPEC intake: .003"-.006"
SPEC exhaust: .008"-.011"

2)Replaced spark plugs CPR8EB-9 qty.4

3) Throttle Body Sync-
Digital verification with Vacuum Mate

4) YCC-T Servo Actuator Check
Conducted Tech Bulletin procedure in YDS Tech Library for TB "Fly BY Wire" servo. Vehicle revealed no abnormal readings and passed all resistance and voltage checks.

After all the above work was completed the technician applied Amsoil Power Foam. Power Foam is a spray product formulated to clean TB plenums, sensors etc, of fuel varnish and gum left by ethanol and degraded fuel."

Seth, the Shop manager told me that the TB's were 25% out of sync! The bike ran great for about 2 months, then started showing signs of surging and stalling again. The electronics turned completely off when I pulled in the clutch to shift at any speed. During the Christmas Holidays it failed to start even while on the battery charger. It would not start under any circumstance. I returned to the shop after the Holidays.

2nd manager Report:
1/12/2016, Miles 21315

"Customer towed vehicle in for service. Vehicle would not start. Customer noted that vehicle seems to exhibit symptoms more frequently during cold and/or rainy conditions.

1) Contacted Yamaha Service Support to bounce some ideas back and forth as to what may be causing the bike to run poorly and now, not start. The Service Support Agent advised me to file an "out of warranty assistance claim" and replace the wiring harness. I was hesitant but Yamaha was going to cover the cost, so no harm in trying. Before the harness arrived my Technician replaced the plugs with a "hotter" rated plug, CPR6EB-9. The vehicle started and ran well but we decided to go ahead with replacing the wiring harness as it was already approved and on order. We replaced the harness once it arrived and also relocated the positive lead to a LED light bar that was wired to the 12 V diagnostic plug. Yamaha had indicated that this plug was not used on this particular model (has self-diag) but it IS connected to the ECM and that it would be wise to power the LED light from an ACC circuit. Test ride revealed no signs of trouble and the wring harness seemed to do the trick. Vehicle was picked up and returned less than two hours later with same issues. At this point we were finally able to observe exactly what the customer was complaining about. "

The bike was on a degrading cycle. Now that the new wiring harness was installed, the stalls and stops ceased. The mechanics could finally hear and feel what I had told them was repeatedly happening. Starting at a good operating speed and mpg set on running mpg, one could watch the performance degrade and be prepared for the computer to make a sudden change to "repair" the settings. At least that's what I think was happening. The engine sounded like boat exhaust, had no power, would not climb steep grades with out down shifting (45mph), the exhaust would pop and sputter, then suddenly the bike would surge forward with no rpm increase. Just BAM 40-60mph in a few seconds. This cycle would repeat about every 5 minutes. I have to ride a half mile at idle (about 10mph) into my park where I live. The bike would jerk, stall, pop, and surge, over and over. I forwarded this conversation to Seth and then began a through research of this problem. Both I and Seth has many discussions, also I had several group conversations with the shop owner, who I gave permission to ride my bike on weekends. Both of them agreed that there was something screwy going on with this bike. Over the next month, Seth replaced a mess of electronic parts. I would be hard pressed to list it all here because they aren't written down. I know I got new coil ignitors and they were changing the plugs quite often. They also rewired the harness per mileageman's recommendation. One of the things they did was enrich the fuel settings from 0 to 23. I don't think it changed anything and may have been an additional factor to more problems. The problem was that the bike was passing the bench tests, but failing real life use. After the first week of March, they ran out of ideas. They said the bike ran good, but wasn't right. I decided to ride it a few weeks and examine what it was doing. I wanted to work out in my mind a statement about the bikes poor performance to Yamaha Corporate. The email below is what I said to Seth:

3-25-2016
"I've been riding this bike for two weeks working on a verbal argument in my mind to Yamaha. But here are some things I noticed.

1. Hesitation: The bike hesitates when starting off. It has caught me twice on driveways where it stalled when leaning over. I dropped it on one of those times because I had no ground under me. Since I was virtually stopped I just kept it from hitting the ground hard. When pulling away from idling through the park, it seems to hesitate, much like the bikes did in the 60's when we had to roll back on the throttle to allow the fuel to catch up before dumping the throttle. Sometimes it just shutters for about 100 feet.

2. Valve clanking: I have never decided if the noises I hear are from natural looseness of moving parts or if there is slack in the internal engine. This usually happens when I am rolling into the park after the engine is hot; the valves sound like they are trying to trade places. There is such a clanking sound coming from the engine that it sounds like the valves are not properly adjusted or the chain is slack.

3. Bad fuel mileage: I know part of it is from enriching the fuel system, but I think this bike gets really bad fuel mileage now. I used to get 200 miles before hitting reserve. Now I'm lucky to get 140. I used to be able to keep it on 3,000 rpm in 6th and get 60mpg at 60 mph consistently; 5th, 55mph, 55mpg. Even under bad wind loads and gear, I could expect in the low 50's in tour mode. The average mpg's I'm getting now are mid 30's where as before was mid 40's, even when I was blasting it in Sport mode. When I settle at 3k rpm, the mpg starts at 57mpg roughly and heads downward to around mid 30's. Also, I have difficulty keeping it at a steady speed. After it drops down, I can expect it to surge soon. If I keep this bike for a few months, we may need to lean it back out some.

4. Surging at a light: One day I was slowing down at a light and down shifting. I hit second and let out the clutch and it jumped out into the intersection. I was able to stop it by killing the motor. Then I had to clutch in and back up, restart. That only happened once. I now clutch in when approaching an intersection. I'm not sure if the surging at speed is caused by a glitch, or more likely, the computer readjusting. I can almost always count on a surge like action after performance drops when it starts to degrade.

5. Popping and Sputtering: While on the highway, I can feel pings either through my butt or through my feet. I can look at the gauges and see the speed drop and the fuel mileage drop. I know to expect a surge soon and be ready. usually after coming in from a ride, it pops and sputters. One day I drove up and down Coushatte Road in either 3rd or 4th gear. I would hold the bike at various rpm's usually around 3500 to mimic going 70 on the highway. The bike would begin popping and losing power until I finally had to change the position of my hand on the throttle to make it stop. When it began to lose power, it slowed, and just ran out of power to climb the hills. I tested in both Sport and Tour, 3rd and 4th, 3500, 3000, and 2500 rpms. The section of road I traveled was protected by trees and blocked the cross winds."

When ever I would go for a ride, I had to keep a lot of distance between me and other vehicles. A surge at 45 may only pop me up to 55, but a surge at 70 could pop me up to 85. Most times I caught it, but riding the bike became exhausting because I always had to monitor the gauges for signs that it was getting ready to surge.

At the beginning of April I called Yamaha to see if I could get someone to take this bike off of me, or give me some kind of trade in value to get a later model Tenere, even tho I had mixed feelings about buying another that could crap out in 2 years. What I got instead was a Yamaha Regional Service Rep. So about mid-April when he showed up in Columbus, I resubmitted the bike to Columbus Yamaha. Before the rep arrived, I had Seth examine the cam chain tensioner. It was a-ok. The rep decided that the valves were stopped up with carbon. Seth ran a scope in through the exhaust ports into the head, not sure how, but they deduced that the intake valves on the number two cylinder could not close due to excessive carbon build up. After some discussion, we decided to try the Ring Free flush first. Over the next several days they ran a gallon of Yamalube Ring Free through the engine in a solution super strong solution (50/50). They also discovered that one of my intake valves on the no.2 cylinder has an oil leak. It isn't bad, but it's there. I can only wonder if it's a result of the carbon build up. The only way to fix it is a head job. Then they had to change the oil too, and we decided on a 10W50 semi-synthetic. It was also recommended to me to add a half ounce of Yamalube Engine Med RX to every fill up. The Engine med RX has an Ethanol treatment as well as the Ring Free. The result is that the engine runs great! It performs at all levels the way it should. I've been riding it for several days and so far, it all looks good. No more jerking, motor boating exhaust, popping, sputtering, stalling, hesitation. It's all gone.

Yamaha has several You Tube videos on the damage Ethanol does to their engines. Just blowing it out on the highway isn't enough. So now, I am back to getting ready for my touring season. Happy Trails y'all!
 

Squibb

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Aug 10, 2014
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Good news then BB, but what a PITA to get there.

On reflection it has to be said, that huge TB adjustment should have given Yamaha the clue, but there we are; 20/20 hindsight is usually pretty accurate.

Ride Safe ...................... KEN
 

Ramseybella

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Los Alamos, new Mexico
Funny thing Buck is that the last month my issue has got worse when I started running Engine med RX, it actually seems it ran better before and when after a couple tanks of plane fuel and not use Engine med RX.
Mine never bucked but it does the idle dance High/Low/ Stall.
My YES is running out this year and don't know how to approach my local Yam dealer as the Head tech is a no care guy.
He is a serious useless mechanic, the next Yamaha dealer is over 100 miles away. :-[
 

Eigerhiker

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Sep 28, 2017
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Austin, TX
Hey guys, unfortunately this is the topic of my first post on here. I have the problem with intermittent hard starting, low idle, bike turning of while riding down the road and sometimes high idle which causes the bike to accelerate on its own!

Its a 2013, I bought in May 2017 with 2640 miles. The PO bought it brand new but decided to sell it because of its height (he bought a Goldwing for two up touring). The bike was stored in a climate controlled garage and ridden monthly. I bought it, flew to North Carolina and rode for a month up the Appalachians to DC then up to Maine, made my home through NY, PA, WV, TN and so on.

The problem first emerged during the first week of the trip, I got off the Blue Ridge Parkway and was riding into Floyd, VA for the evening. As I downshifted into second gear the bike shut down, refused to restart for about an hour. The next morning the bike started and rode without issue. I thought I had water in the fuel so I topped off from a newer gas station and rode until that tank was almost empty. After that I was very particular about where I filled up.

The problem emerged again during week two when I was in Maine. I was riding on the interstate towards Portland when the bike began acceleration on its own, I pulled in the clutch and it stayed in a high idle condition. I took an exit, turned off the bike for a few minutes, restarted it and it ran normal.

After that the bike ran fine for the remainder of the trip. About two weeks after getting home to Austin, it started to high idle, accelerate on its own or just shut down while riding. when it would shut down it would be hard to start. I had it towed to the dealer, as usual they could not re-create the problem, but found code 60 in diagnostics, they cleared that code and returned the bike to me.

A week later the bike started acting the same way again. The dealer seemed confused and I was not willing to keep paying them while they tried to figure it out. The bike has YES warranty until 2019 but they wouldn't submit a claim since the problem could not be re-created.

After reading this forum, I decided to change the battery as it seemed slow to start. That worked for getting the bike to start and run. I then synced the throttle bodies. the bike still ran rough and would shut down, high idle, low idle or not start at times. Based on advice from advrider.com I took the bike to AF1 racing in Austin to have the ECU re-flashed with the ECUunleashed program. The bike ran very sporty and reliable for two weeks. now all of the sudden the random shut down and hard starting issue has returned.

I contacted Yamaha USA and they asked me to submit a video I found on YouTube to the dealer so the dealer can then send them the video as a tech request (ridiculous that they cant just watch a video that clearly illustrates the problem).

This such a frustrating experience, I bought this bike based on its reputation and reliability. I was hoping to take it to South America, right now I'm reluctant to take it across town!

Here's the video I found on YouTube from a guy having the same issue, the first 30 seconds is his goofy intro, after that the content is useful :)

https://youtu.be/ZmtRaYihHCc?list=LLOGTbtD44tZgO5r6_4stOcA

Here's a picture of the bike the first week I had it,
 

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Nikolajsen

"Keep it simple"
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Jul 1, 2017
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Denmark
This is so very strange.....And very disappointing that Yamaha can't solve the issue.

I actuallt did se the problem that is dies when going to a stoplight when clutch is pulled, on my 2017.
But only 2 times, and that was the in first 400 km (250 miles), never since. Now 5500 km (3400 miles)
 
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