Fork parts question

WJBertrand

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I'm looking to replace seals and bushing in the front forks of my 2015 ES. I'm looking at the part fiche and I believe the bushings are diagram numbers , 4,22 for inner fork tube and and 5,23 for the outer tube. Not sure but I think the dual numbers in the diagram are for left and right sides which are the same Yamaha part number. What's confusing me is that in the P/N description they are calling the 4,22 labeled part a piston as opposed to a busing, slider, guide or some other description that would tell me this is a bushing or not. Anyone know if I've got it correct?Forks.png
 

SkunkWorks

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Yes, you have it correct.
I think they call it "Piston" because it clamps around the lower fork-leg, and moves up and down with the leg.

The one labeled 5/23 stays stationary with the upper tube.
 

WJBertrand

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Yes, you have it correct.
I think they call it "Piston" because it clamps around the lower fork-leg, and moves up and down with the leg.

The one labeled 5/23 stays stationary with the upper tube.
OK, thanks for the confirmation, that's what I expected from rebuilding a number of Honda forks where they are better described as bushings. My first go an upside down ES fork.
 
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ballisticexchris

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OK, thanks for the confirmation, that's what I expected from rebuilding a number of Honda forks where they are better described as bushings. My first go an upside down ES fork.
Jeff, I might suggest to use some high quality oil. Both Motul Factory and Race Tech Ultra Slick oils are the best out there for minimal bushing wear. The Race tech stuff is unbelievably slippery.
 

WJBertrand

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Jeff, I might suggest to use some high quality oil. Both Motul Factory and Race Tech Ultra Slick oils are the best out there for minimal bushing wear. The Race tech stuff is unbelievably slippery.
I've actually got some Red Line Synthetic fork oil on the way. I saw a test a while back that Red Line stayed in grade with wear better than almost everything else available. In addition I've had a lot of experience with their fork oils. I also believe I heard that Red Line makes the Race Tech oil for them.
 

RCinNC

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I think I still have the receipt from Rocky Mountain ATV from where I just bought all the seals and bushings for my 2014 non ES. I already did the job and everything worked, so it appears I bought all the right parts. Would you like me to check my order and get all the part numbers I used for a complete seal and bushing replacement?
 
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ballisticexchris

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Thanks Ron for helping us fellow riders out with these service procedures. Very helpful. :)
 

RCinNC

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You're welcome, Chris. I've definitely benefited from other peoples' knowledge since I joined the forum, so it's never a problem to pay it forward.

Here's the list:



The items referred to as "Metal Slide 1" and "Piston, front fork" are the fork bushings. For the for service I did, the only things I replaced were what's on my list, with one exception: I got new O-rings for the fork caps. These are part number 3XJ-23147-L0-00. They're identified as numbers 18 and 38 in the exploded diagram, but they're the same part and have the same part number.

I reused the parts identified is the diagram as 14 and 34; it's just a big metal washer.

I bought the Tusk seal driver because it was the first time I did a seal change and I didn't want to mess around with any of the ad-hoc methods I saw on line for driving in the bushing and seal. It worked really good. If you decide on a different driver, just remember that these are 43mm forks.
 

WJBertrand

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I think I still have the receipt from Rocky Mountain ATV from where I just bought all the seals and bushings for my 2014 non ES. I already did the job and everything worked, so it appears I bought all the right parts. Would you like me to check my order and get all the part numbers I used for a complete seal and bushing replacement?
Thanks RC, I’m pretty sure I’ve got the right parts ordered, but appreciate the offer.


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WJBertrand

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Got my parts (all correct) and spent most of the day yesterday installing them. Neither the oil or the bushings looked that bad actually. No obvious wear to the coating on the bushings at 72K. Having the Yamaha SST for compressing the fork springs would have made the job easier.

Got stopped right away not having a large enough wrench for the 44mm ES top caps. Nothing a big-ass adjustable wrench couldn’t handle ($15 and a quick trip to Harbor Freight). No problem using this tool as long as you’re careful and make sure to loosen the top t-clamp pinch bolts first. The caps aren’t that tight.

Next my makeshift fork seal driver was discovered to be unworkable with the USD forks, so back to the store, this time Cycle Gear for a “universal” driver. A bit fiddly but got the job done.

Felt comfortable using the specified volumes as I’d completely drained all the oil,
Including exhaustively pumping out the cartridges. Watch out doing the right side, extending the damper rod squirts fluid straight out the top of the rod. I’m here to tell you it tastes pretty nasty.

Used a 50/50 mixture of Red Line light and extra light. All done and buttoned up and I am no longer an USD fork service virgin. Test ride next.


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tntmo

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Glad you got it all taken care of, it's not a terribly difficult job but it does overwhelm some people. I'm surprised to hear that your bushings were looking pretty good, mine were noticeably worn with 40,000 miles or so. Unfortunately I hadn't expected that and only had seals on hand so will be digging back into it when I do the valve check/adjust soon.
 
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ballisticexchris

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Suspension service is a nasty job without the special tools. I quit doing anything more than oil service years ago. I too am surprised the bushings looked good. I'm 100% certain they were well worn though. Every time I do a front wheel removal I rock the forks to check for play.
 

WJBertrand

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Yeah, I’d heard these bike are tough on the bushings but I think my previous ST130 was worse. In 150k on that bike I changed the bushing twice because I could see the copper color in several places coming through the coating and the oil would
Look worse too. These all looked pristine coming out of the Ténéré at 72K.

Got in about 50-60 mile test ride today and the front does feel a bit more solid but who knows if it was the new oil or the bushes? No leaks so that’s good too. With the Yamaha SST and my experience now I could do this job again in half the time I believe.


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RCinNC

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I didn't like the fork spring compressors I saw that used ratchet straps, so I made one out of a couple wood clamps and some scrap square and angle aluminum stock I had in my garage. I used two clamps because I didn't want to drill a hole in the bar of my nice trigger clamp, so I used the bar from a cheapie Harbor Freight clamp. It's pretty controllable, and the parts don't come close enough to the fork tubes to do any damage to them. It's easy to release pressure on it using one hand, just by squeezing the release on the trigger on the clamp. The nice part is that I can disassemble the compressor and put the wood clamps back into service.









As far as my fork bushings went, I did mine at around 67,000 miles, and I didn't think they showed any excessive wear (which surprised me). I changed them anyway, since I had the forks apart.
 

WJBertrand

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Clever design, but the top part with the two pointed/threaded pins won’t work on the ES forks. I have the motion pro one and there’s just no place to seat those pins on the ES.


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WJBertrand

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New question. I am trying to source the Yamaha SST fork spring compressor tool. This is specific to the ES model. The service manual lists two part numbers; 90890-01573 and YM-01573. I can't seem to get either number to come up in any of the on-line parts fiches I've tried. Those numbers don't come up in a google search either. Anyone know how to order one?
 
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