Fork maintenance?

SkunkWorks

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2018
Messages
1,733
Location
Colorado
I'm gathering the parts to refresh the front forks on my 2014 ES with 55k miles. Currently, both forks are puking fluid when I ride but not when chilling in my garage. I have tried cleaning the seals multiple times, but it hasn't seemed to fix the issue.

What is the consensus on the parts to replace when doing the refresh? I ordered the Yamaha OE Fork seal kit, which provides a new Oil Seal (13) and Dust Seal (10), but when I looked at the factory service manual, it calls for a lot more parts to be replaced. Swapping out the additional "New" parts highlighted in the diagram would add about $120 to the refresh cost. Is it worth it?

View attachment 107885
#15 and 16 are the teflon-coated bushings.
They are definitely a "wear item"
If I pull the Forks apart to replace the seals, I almost always replace the bushings too.

The O-ring at the top-cap I have re-used more than once without issue.

The small copper-washer at the very bottom of the fork assembly should be replaced also, as it's soft copper.
I have heard of people re-using those, but I always replace it with a new one.

I also re-use the metal clip #11 if it is not supplied in the kit.
It's just a metal clip that holds the inner seal in place, and doesn't really wear out.
 
Last edited:

Mad_Matt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2023
Messages
256
Location
Colorado
This is great feedback, thanks! I'm definitely bigger-boned at 260#, should I put in heavier-weight folk oil? OEM is 5W, I was thinking of upping it to 7W oil.
 

SkunkWorks

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2018
Messages
1,733
Location
Colorado
I'll edit my response to say that: If you just want to do the seals and bushings, the small copper-washer on the bottom bolt is not needed.
That only needs to be removed if you are overhauling the Damper assembly.
 

SkunkWorks

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2018
Messages
1,733
Location
Colorado
This is great feedback, thanks! I'm definitely bigger-boned at 260#, should I go ahead and put in heavier-weight folk oil? OEM is 5W, I was thinking of upping it to 7W oil.
I'm heavy also.
I have always used the factory viscosity.

I also upgraded to Penske Valves the last time I overhauled mine, and I believe Stoltech recommended 5W with that valving as well.

You could always try it, but you wouldn't want the damping response to be too harsh?
Maybe someone who has tried the 7.5W will chime in.
 

Mad_Matt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2023
Messages
256
Location
Colorado
I ordered the additional parts from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. One of the bushings is on backorder until later this month, but given the weather forecast, I probably wasn't going to get in much riding this month anyway.
 

TenereGUY

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2023
Messages
991
Location
Illinois
I'm gathering the parts to refresh the front forks on my 2014 ES with 55k miles. Currently, both forks are puking fluid when I ride but not when chilling in my garage. I have tried cleaning the seals multiple times, but it hasn't seemed to fix the issue.

What is the consensus on the parts to replace when doing the refresh? I ordered the Yamaha OE Fork seal kit, which provides a new Oil Seal (13) and Dust Seal (10), but when I looked at the factory service manual, it calls for a lot more parts to be replaced. Swapping out the additional "New" parts highlighted in the diagram would add about $120 to the refresh cost. Is it worth it?

View attachment 107885
At 55,000 miles you most likely will need 13, 15, 16. Seals, upper and lower bushing. Those bushings have a Teflon coating that is meant to wear. If you see copper showing over 50% of the surface area they need replacing. At 55,000 you'll be there or close! Dust seal is optional and if you remove the retaining clip without acting like a gorilla you shouldn't need that.
 

TenereGUY

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2023
Messages
991
Location
Illinois
You answered my question precisely. I’m 215 dressed and carry between 0 and 40 lbs. of gear, depending on what/where I’m riding. The set of 0.95 kg/mm adjusted properly, sound like the solid absorption and comfort I’m looking for. Thanks!
Just know that the stock springs are progressive springs and not linear. Most aftermarket purchases are to a linear spring. Call Traxxion Dynamics suspension in Marietta Georgia or email them. They will take the guess work out of it and send you the correct oil and springs.
 

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,211
Location
IL/AZ
It was well tarped so the slipstream was limited. I would measure the height rather than dumping, unless I go ahead with the new seals and bushings. Will probably check next rainy day. Performance seems good.


Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk
Checked the level today and it was low about an inch. I had noticed the ride was a little off. Holding the parts for a rebuild next time.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk
 
Top