Final Drive Fluid Change

[Northof60]

Hi EricV, Thanks for the prompt reply. I attached a couple of pics for reference. Doesn't appear to be a copper washer, but a crush one is there. I was concerned the head would start stripping so I stopped. My bar is 2ft long. Could be heat cycled. I' try later today. Sat overnight so the case and components will be cooler for sure.

 

[EricV]

I would suggest that the dealer isn't going to do anything you aren't already doing. My Gen II bike that I bought with 3k on it had a damaged fill plug, so it's not uncommon. I'd just go after it with your breaker bar and only stop if your allen bit is twisting. You might be able to find impact allen bits, which typically are hardened steel.

At the end of the day, the replacement part is only about $8 US, so not horrible.

 

[WJBertrand]

So the lesson here is to always make sure you can remove the fill plug before taking out the drain plug! When I worked in automobile service we had many cars towed to our shop after the owner drained the differential or manual transmission and then could not remove the filler bolt.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Aluminum expands more than steel. Try taking a ride and unscrewing it right away. You'll be surprised how hot these rear ends operate.

If that doesn't work, try to slightly tighten it before un-tightening it while still warm. Just barely enough to hear or feel the "think" of it breaking from the fixed position.

 

[victorluiz1980]

Hi EricV, Thanks for the prompt reply. I attached a couple of pics for reference. Doesn't appear to be a copper washer, but a crush one is there. I was concerned the head would start stripping so I stopped. My bar is 2ft long. Could be heat cycled. I' try later today. Sat overnight so the case and components will be cooler for sure.
View attachment 69416View attachment 69417

Have you tried the “African impact driver” method? Tap it with a metal hammer as you apply a little torque to it.

 

[Davesax36]

Yeah. That 3/8 drive hand impact has gotten a lot of bolts free for me.

 

[Northof60]

All great feedback folks- thanks!

FYI- I was able to get the drain plug free but before removing it I stopped and checked myself- what if I can't remove the fill plug?? The rest is history.

 

[RonH]

Use a good impact driver and impact bits. I like the Milwaukee Stubby rated at 250ft/lb. It spins off these type problems instantly.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Without a driver, giving the face of the bolt a few taps with a hammer between applied torque might break the bind. Impact drivers are a fantastic tool.

 

[U.P.rider]

When draining the final drive put the bike on the side stand to keep the oil from dripping on your rear wheel. I do that on my Vmax which has a 200/50VR18 tire and Carrozzeria rims.
My '92 Vmax diff runs hot as well but in close to 40K miles of abuse it still works as it should, driveshafts on the other hand I've been through 6 or 7 of them!

 

[HeliMark]

I would suggest that the dealer isn't going to do anything you aren't already doing. My Gen II bike that I bought with 3k on it had a damaged fill plug, so it's not uncommon. I'd just go after it with your breaker bar and only stop if your allen bit is twisting. You might be able to find impact allen bits, which typically are hardened steel.

At the end of the day, the replacement part is only about $8 US, so not horrible.

+1

Get a new bolt, you are going to want to replace it no matter how you eventually get the bolt off. It will be rounded off, and will only pose problems every time you want to take it off.

 

[mikelab]

make sure you put a magnetic plug in the place of the drain plug. I used the Gold Plug which has a powerful magnet to keep the rear diff metal free.

 

[victorluiz1980]

make sure you put a magnetic plug in the place of the drain plug. I used the Gold Plug which has a powerful magnet to keep the rear diff metal free.

Where did you find that?

 

[mikelab]

Where did you find that?

Amazon!

 

[mikelab]

Amazon!

it is the same size and thread as the 2 oil drain bolts

 

[Gigitt]

When draining the final drive put the bike on the side stand to keep the oil from dripping on your rear wheel. I do that on my Vmax which has a 200/50VR18 tire and Carrozzeria rims.
My '92 Vmax diff runs hot as well but in close to 40K miles of abuse it still works as it should, driveshafts on the other hand I've been through 6 or 7 of them!

I use a small piece of Aluminium Foil as a drip guard, wedge it into the wheel gap and let it catch oil running down the side of the pumpkin and keep the wheel and tyre clean.

 

[semmyroundel]

I think rem mentioned using a 60ml syringe, which is what I did, however, I had my bike on the side stand and the rear of the bike slightly lower than the front so one would assume that it would drip out before I managed to get 200ml into it.
I did get 200ml, and then a bit more, and it STILL didn't drip out despite being slightly lower than level, what gives?
What I want to know is how much extra could be damaging?
Is the domed cap on the top a vent that would chuck excess out?

 

[EricV]

@semmyroundel - The Yamaha Super Ten, like most Yamaha shaft drive bikes, does not use a measured amount of final drive gear oil like BMWs do. Keep adding until it starts coming out and you'll be just fine. Do not spin the wheel in an attempt to get more in is all I would suggest as a caution. As for the angles you mention, a little more or little less won't matter on this machine.

Sorry, the domed cap on top is a vent. It's more about keeping dirt and crud out, but can vent excess gear oil if it was really excessive. A little misting when riding high speeds or off road with vigorous shaking and bumping is normal too.

 

[semmyroundel]

@semmyroundel - The Yamaha Super Ten, like most Yamaha shaft drive bikes, does not use a measured amount of final drive gear oil like BMWs do. Keep adding until it starts coming out and you'll be just fine. Do not spin the wheel in an attempt to get more in is all I would suggest as a caution. As for the angles you mention, a little more or little less won't matter on this machine.

Sorry, the domed cap on top is a vent. It's more about keeping dirt and crud out, but can vent excess gear oil if it was really excessive. A little misting when riding high speeds or off road with vigorous shaking and bumping is normal too.

Many thanks EricV, that's put my mind at rest, I'll add a little more tomorrow until it drips out.
Regarding the 200ml, I was only going on what the manual said, but should've realised it was just a guide

 

[EricV]

Coming from BMW, you expect gospel and dire consequences for overfilling the FD. Thankfully, that isn't the case with the Yamaha.