engine problems xt 1200ze 2014

SHH

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engine cheats, pops and does not pull, it sounds like it is running on only one cylinder. it can suddenly for a few seconds go normal, i have checked coils with ohm meter and all 4 is in spec. Any sensor i can check with multimeter? Had to bring bike home on a trailer. At one point at a stop it smell burnt/plastic awhile before i had to finally stop an pick it up by trailer.
 

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SHH

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that was also strange no engine codes or engine lamp seen when this happen, i can maybe have overseen this but i am almost sure there was no. Because me and my mc buddy talked abut that on the trip, that it was strange i could not see any codes or engine lampe lit up.
 

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SHH

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I am a gravel junkie, so water and sand/dust is all over my bike. Bought this bike new in 2014 and have 47000km on it, also have a ktm 690 enduro r.
 

RCinNC

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I can't say what might have caused the burning smell, but are you sure you don't have a bad spark plug, and not a bad coil? Maybe the insulator on one of the plugs is cracked.

If I had to take a guess, I'd say that that plug in your photo is from the far left side of the engine. Without taking some do it yourself steps (there's a thread on here about using O-Rings to give the coils some added waterproofing), water seems to accumulate in that plug well.
 
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SHH

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agree this plug is only 12 months old, all 4 seems the same. Everything cleaned well at that time, all rubber sealing checked and so on. there are 2 small slots in every sealing i guss that is for escaping water/steam. All 4 is now new and coils is measured to spec ohm value. have to put all back together, but i can not say that my trouble is over. i haven't find any loose connections.
 

RCinNC

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Before you put it back together, I'd probably check each plug to see if there's actually spark. I've never had to do this on the S10, but if you pull the plug, stick it into the coil, ground the plug and turn the engine over with the starter, you should see spark on the electrode of the plug. No spark or weak spark: possible bad plug.

 

Squibb

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All those plugs & coils have had a muddy bath.

First off, I would replace all the plugs, just because it would eliminate them from the fault find at low cost. Watch out for fakes BTW.
Secondly, the coil sticks look in bad shape - can you recall those resistance readings? The problem is they can read within range when cold, but then go on to fail when hot. If they all clean up & you are certain they test OK, then reassembly with plenty of dielectric grease around the seals.

If the misfire continues, then try to tie it down with an IR thermometer & swop the coil sticks accordingly to prove.
 

TenereStreets

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A few months back I thoroughly washed my bike and engine with excessive amounts of water. Then it didn't run right. Since I had an extra set of new spark plugs I decided to change them. After that the bike was back to running like new. Maybe new plugs solves the problem. BTW I also have a 2014 but with 116k miles on it
 

SHH

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Hi
I have now installed new plugs cpr8eb-9. Old ones at picture, the coils and plugs looked just as shabby a year ago, when I changed plugs for the first time about 40,000 km. I have started with what I can do myself, and i suspected periodic error in a coil, I have measured the coils several times cold after they have been dismantled, and they are within the ohm range the workshop book says. MC is stored in garage. I will put together and test next week. Maybe current creep between spark plug and engine block? i have not put extra sealing on top of coil, but seems that is recommended. I will check that out.
 

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mran

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Id verify the codes theres two actuator options on the 12 stored and active i believe. Been a bit but the instructions are in the service manual. Follow the path that it leads to in the service manual if you had any codes. (Sounds like your unsure, verify your doing it correctly)

If no codes

Then figure out which cylinder isnt running and do a coil swap. See if the miss moves. If not noid light.
 
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Jlq1969

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Maybe current creep between spark plug and engine block? i
yes .... that is the typical failure of a coil that does not find a good conduction due to rust or water. will discharge its tension to the block and not to the spark plug
Checking the ohms in coils, it only serves to control that the resistance of the coil winding is within the range. In other words, that coil is capable of generating tension… .now, where does that tension go (spark plug or block)… ..it is no longer so easy to know… but, if the spark plug has no rust (neither in the connector nor in the thread ), and if the metallic covering of the coil does not have rust either, it is to be expected that the tension of the coil comes out through the spark plug electrode
while the coil is discharging, no error codes will appear ... it discharges into the spark plug or block
 
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Tenman

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I am a gravel junkie, so water and sand/dust is all over my bike. Bought this bike new in 2014 and have 47000km on it, also have a ktm 690 enduro r.
I'm looking at possibly getting a KTM 690r. What do you think of yours? Are there any years to avoid? I'm might get a used one.
 

SHH

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Ktm 690r is absolutely an enjoyable bike, enormous power and moment for single piston engine. Not any special year to avoid, but 2009-2010 have longer travel on suspension.
Mine is 2009 i also use it in winter on snowy and icy roads not salted.
 

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SHH

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I have finally put in new spark plugs and cleaned coils, sealed with special silicon "heatproof" checked resistance in coils and put everything back together after 5-6 months with stand still due to winter. Bike started after 2 short push on stater, and engine started and was idling as it should. Seems current creep between spark plug and engine block due to water over time might have been the problem, it might also have destroyed a sparkplug or several. Now when the ice is gone in my driveway i have to take a testrun but it seem to be running ok now. Thanks for all input.
 

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