Engine noise at startup

[jrusell]

Why does the factory style one would need the valve cover off? I'm going with a manual one when I do mine soon, but was just curious.

The easy way to install manual tensioner is to hold the chain guide tight against the chain. Use a spacer of some sort to fill the gap between the case and guide is the easy way. As long as the guide can't move, the chain can't skip when the tensioner is removed.

When you install a factory tensioner it is in the retracted position. (there is a small steel clip holding it retracted)
To release the tensioner you must tap the end of the tensioner facing the chain guide with something. This releases the steel clip and allows the tensioner to extend fully.

The normal way to tap the tensioner is to slap the chain guide back against the tensioner and it will release. You can't slap the guide back and keep tension on the chain at the same time.
With a manual tensioner you bolt it back in and then extend it until it pushes on the chain guide. Then you remove your spacer. The guide is never slack and therefore the chain can never skip.

There are several posts on how to do both types of tensioners with lots of pics of the methods used. Search the tech section.

Also when finished no matter what method you use, be sure to rotate the engine over 4-5 times to make sure there is no resistance. The chain can skip very quickly and you might not know it happened. Rotating by hand a few times will give you a bit more piece of mind everything is good.

 

[Jlq1969]

Sorry for the interference, but since we are about to remove the clutch cover, what is the purpose of the black plastic cover? .... and what is the purpose of the screw?

 

[Jlq1969]

sorry, but I can't upload pics. When I say the screw, it is the one that is attached to the black plastic cover

 

[jrusell]

Crank shaft bolt cover.
If you need to manually turn the engine over remove this small black cover and use socket on the end of crankshaft to rotate engine.
It would be used by tech to rotate engine over when checking valve clearance for example.

If you installed a manual adjuster a year ago and wanted to check it's adjustment. You would remove this cover, turn the engine over and check/adjust slack of tensioner. No need to remove clutch cover.

I have never used the small screw but I am sure there is a maintenance task where it is used to view the timing pickup rotor marks, which are directly behind this.

 

[Jlq1969]

Crank shaft bolt cover.
If you need to manually turn the engine over remove this small black cover and use socket on the end of crankshaft to rotate engine.
It would be used by tech to rotate engine over when checking valve clearance for example.

If you installed a manual adjuster a year ago and wanted to check it's adjustment. You would remove this cover, turn the engine over and check/adjust slack of tensioner. No need to remove clutch cover.

I have never used the small screw but I am sure there is a maintenance task where it is used to view the timing pickup rotor marks, which are directly behind this.

About the plastic cover to turn the crankshaft, I understood. but that screw ... it's like you say, it matches the chain gear. If I had to give it a utility, I would turn the crankshaft forward to the mark, screw in a long screw until it passes the hole that has the crankshaft gear and this would be blocked and the chain in tension forward and loose on the side of the cct

 

[Kyle_E]

The easy way to install manual tensioner is to hold the chain guide tight against the chain. Use a spacer of some sort to fill the gap between the case and guide is the easy way. As long as the guide can't move, the chain can't skip when the tensioner is removed.

When you install a factory tensioner it is in the retracted position. (there is a small steel clip holding it retracted)
To release the tensioner you must tap the end of the tensioner facing the chain guide with something. This releases the steel clip and allows the tensioner to extend fully.

The normal way to tap the tensioner is to slap the chain guide back against the tensioner and it will release. You can't slap the guide back and keep tension on the chain at the same time.
With a manual tensioner you bolt it back in and then extend it until it pushes on the chain guide. Then you remove your spacer. The guide is never slack and therefore the chain can never skip.

There are several posts on how to do both types of tensioners with lots of pics of the methods used. Search the tech section.

Also when finished no matter what method you use, be sure to rotate the engine over 4-5 times to make sure there is no resistance. The chain can skip very quickly and you might not know it happened. Rotating by hand a few times will give you a bit more piece of mind everything is good.

Ahh kind of what I figured on the manual being able to set tension before starting. Glad I asked, thanks for the detailed explanation. Sorta waiting as I may trade the bike in this summer or I may decide to do the clutch basket. Who knows. But ill wait till its hot and I don't want to ride to make up my mind.

 

[JerryGeorge]

Thanks for all the feedback. I have ordered the CCT. The next question is do I also need to replace the chain and sprocket? The bike has 121000 kms (75,000 miles) on it.