Dynojet Power Commander Fuel Controller PCFC YAM Super Tenere 11-14 P/N FC22041

[Derekj]

Has anyone tried one of these?

Dynojet DFC

The Power Commander FC is a new plug-n-play fuel management device pre-programmed with Make/ Model specific maps. In addition the Power Commander FC has the added ability to modify or change these maps on the fly without a computer.
Users can literally select between a Power Commander FC Map, custom-built maps, or even fine tune low, mid or high rpm ranges while sitting on the bike and without plugging into a computer. Standard +/- 10% increments from selected map settings, different ranges are available using the supplied Control Center software.
Users can also load up to 10 of their personally built Power Maps into the Power Commander FC and select between them while in the saddle - eliminating the need to "re-boot" with the computer every time a new map is desired.

 

[Derekj]

It also looks like the two brothers racing Juice Box

 

[JohnB]

Why would anyone want a Power Commander V when this is half the price and appears to be very user friendly?

 

[Derekj]

Why would anyone want a Power Commander V when this is half the price and appears to be very user friendly?

My thoughts exactly.. The power commander v ,usb111 ,etc can add fuel and timing to most other models, not the Tenere. Auto tune and personal maps are all just fuel related, that is why these work well with a flash that has modified timing. The pcv can also flip to another tune on the fly, but this one can store 10 maps and you can access them with a click of the first knob. I think its going to work great. It will also accept any pcv map. I went ahead and ordered one today and will update the results.

 

[becoyote]

Any updates here?

 

[pooh and xtine]

I was going to fit one of these for its ability to use any PCV open loop fuel map, but moreso because you can change closed loop fuelling from 14.7:1 to 13.5:1 (or richer if you want, I think) to help resolve the closed loop on/off throttle response. However, I decided to try an O2 eliminator instead for £20 or so.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/o2-Oxygen-Lambda-Sensor-Eliminator-Yamaha-XTZ-1200-Super-Tenere-2011-2014-/221350508825?hash=item338984b919:g:LpoAAOSw7ThUnXd6

I'd previously had what was euphemistically called an ecu remap by what turned out to be a dodgy outfit here in the UK (Rasher on this forum will know who they are). I could detect no difference in how the bike rode after the remap, but with the O2 eliminators the difference is significant – no more surging, easier to control at low speeds, smoother off/on throttle transition and so far no discernible impact on fuel consumption. Clearly it's not as technically an ideal solution as a proper remap, but for the cost it's a great value improvement. If any negatives emerge I'll try the PCFC, but not until then.

 

[mebgardner]

I bought one of these, it arrived today. I specified I have a 2016 ST Non-ES, stock, no mods.

I ordered a model FC22041, and that's what arrived... Box says model years '11-'13.

My first mistake: I did not photograph the dial settings. Although the mixture settings remain unchanged, I rotated the map number dial. Now, I can not tell which map is selected.

The enclosed photos in the instructions show Map #1 at the 12 Noon (straight up) position. But, the numeration on the dial, on the imprinted decal attached to the face? It shows Map #1 at the 11 O'clock position, one click CCW from 12 Noon... Doh!

So, on top of that, the reason this matters: The map embedded in the device, the only non-zero map loaded, at ... Wait for it... Map #1 position. ... is *vastly* different from the latest / *only* map given on their website for a ... stock, no mods, 2014 ST.

The PCFC Software Appl. shows the loaded map in position Map #1 is for a stock, no mods, *2013* ST.

So, I'm screwed on so many levels tonite. I can not tell which map I'll be selecting. The out-of-box loaded map does not match my cycle. The map I can fetch for my cycle (of a different model year) is completely different from the loaded map.

Sheesh! What a PITA!

 

[Gigitt]

It is just a map holding box.

try loading only 1 fuel map into position #1 and the other slots add zero maps.

rotate the dial till you can feel the when the actual fuel map change the bikes characteristics.

Test it a few times and make sure that it is the fuel map at that dial position and then mark that dial position as Map #1

now you are stuck with loading Mystery Maps that fit your bike and testing them out.

 

[gaps]

I have a FC in my 14 which is otherwise stock, no exhaust or intake mods. It has made a considerable improvement, runs smoother and perhaps cooler with less abrupt throttle response. This is using the pre-loaded map for a stock bike with the low speed pot turned up a bit. The only negative I found is that the product seems to be developed for the gen 1 and it's a tight fit in the gen 2. The wiring is a smidge short so getting a neat install without tension in the wires is a bit tricky but doable. I had a similar product in a VStrom and really liked having the pots to manually adjust the low, mid and high with just a screwdriver....I've bumped the low rpm setting value up a bit on my S10 and found further improvement from the stock map without adverse effect to mpg...To me this product is superior to the V in that regard and it really provides most of the functionality of the V for a lot less $.

 

[gaps]

mebgardner, according to dynojet you have the correct part, mine also said 11-13 so I called and they put me to the tech dept where they explained that the product just needed a new label....I've aprox 4k miles on it so far so good...regarding the map position, if you can wait a couple days I'll be able to get a pic of mine and post for you...otherwise call dynojet, they have real people answering phones there...good luck!

 

[mebgardner]

Thanks, gaps.

This is using the pre-loaded map for a stock bike with the low speed pot turned up a bit.

This tells me that you've not downloaded the map from their website, and installed it? You're still running the pre-loaded map for a '11-'13 ST, in your '14?

... and you're happy with the result? OK, well, have you ever peered into the guts of that preloaded map? It has many areas that remove fuel, not many places that add it.

Both the pre-loaded map for the '11-'13, and the "stock, no mods" map for the '14, both of these offer no adjustment in "off the idle stop" improvements, in the map.

They are both essentially "zero maps" at all throttle positions, at the lower end of the RPM range (up to 1250 RPM): No adjustment.

So, I can understand why you're telling me that a bit of "low range" RPM setting value dial "add" / change to "+", improved the throttle abruptness. The improvement in that area is all from that dial change, and not the map.

So, thanks, good to know!

The '11-'13 preloaded map actually removes fuel in the 1250-1500 RPM range, from 2% to 20% throttle position. It maps the fuelling leaner at low engine RPM / small throttle settings. Go figure.

The '14 map enrichens fuelling across a broad area, from 1500 RPM and up, and from 5% throttle and up, across the board, by 8 points. It's the upper left hand corner it does not adjust: 0-2000 RPM, at 0 to ~2to5% throttle, in a "curve".

So, yeah, they're completely different.

 

[gaps]

Yes, it's seems I am running the 11-13, didn't download... Where did you find the maps and data, dynojet site? When I spoke with them I was told the preloaded map was what I wanted...??

 

[mebgardner]

I've got some more info from DynoJet.

The '11-'13 map is the incorrect map, out of the box, for the '14+ years.

The M22-041-007 map is the correct map for a non-modified, stock '14+ ST.

The PCFC model #22041 (B), for the '11-'17 ST, which delivers with the '11-'13 map preloaded in map #1, must be programmed with M22-041-007 in another map#, and have that one selected for use by the '14+ ST model years.

PCFC model #22041 has it's map #2 index as the map selected with the dial index pointing "straight up", towards the edge of the controller. The instruction's pictures show it as map #1, and that's incorrect.

The DynoJet PCFC software *will* display the map selected by the dial. Look carefully at the PCFC appl., and the dial selected map number shows in the upper right corner under... "Map".

The displayed map number will change as you rotate the dial through the selections. Do not use much pressure as you rotate the dial, you could strip the dial, its cheap plastic...

The installation instructions show the O2 sensor connectors in boots on top of / over the battery. That's incorrect for the '16 ST I have. One sensor is found as shown in the instructions, inside a rubber boot near the top right corner of the battery. The other is next to the left rail, next to the battery left side. Not like the pictures...

Otherwise, pretty smooth. It will take someone (like me) not familiar with the chassis, 2-3 hours to do it right, a clean job.

 

[mebgardner]

Back from an initial ride. Here's the report...

History: I'm coming off a 180 HP, 1400cc, ZX14R Ninja. That was my daily commuter, and I logged 32K miles on it over 5 years. Lets just say I know my way around a big, heavy bike, a super sport...

So, I had some things to solve, moving from that ride: Seat position (yep, gettin' older...), wind management (hey, not *mine*), and chain maintenance (and not wanting to do it anymore), were the biggies.

I wanted shaft drive, but not Italian, or German. I wanted ADV seating, and that combo of desires really narrowed the field.

I quickly became bored with T mode. S mode was better, it really livens things up, in good and bad ways. The cycle exhibits very snatchy throttle, just off idle. Pretty darn close to unmanageable, IMO. Remember what I was riding, it was smooth and beautiful, right off the show room floor. Perfect...

I was gonna have to solve that, or look elsewhere. So, on to the ride report.

Installed the PCFC, installed the correct map, and changed the dial to that map. Start the cycle, no surprises, no change to idle at the kickstand. Good!

S Mode selected, I start down the dirt driveway. I have 1/2 mile of good graded dirt, pebble, and sand on OEM tires, before reaching pavement.

In 1st, then 2nd. Snatchy-ness appears to be reduced! Engine and tires, is still "cold". OK, Good...

Reach pavement, everything is up to temp. Time to crack that throttle. Smooth, powerful thrust. Ahhhhh, this is much better!

OK, subjectively, it's really not changed drastically. My mind and pocketbook *want* it to be better. Indeed, things have improved incrementally. The snatchy-ness at low throttle settings is mostly gone, and the power band up through the gears, is smoother.

I would definitely do this again, since I was considering walking away. A mile of dirt, every time I leave the property. It's good to ride dirt, but a big heavy bike with power around idle that jerks me around? Ummm, maybe not...

I considered getting an ECU 'Flash. I think I'll sit on that idea, since this idea (the PCFC) was about the same cost. The Flash would have been a one-time change (and would likely never need changing again), but I can revert this PCFC to a "zero map" if I have to go to emissions...

So, yes, to me, it was worth the coin, I'd do it again.

 

[yz454]

Is what you are looking for is custom flash . The power commander is good for intake and exhaust changes like mine .

 

[gaps]

Well I'll be danged, thanks for the heads up mebg, I just downloaded the software and stock 14 map to my laptop....now I need to read up on how to send the map. I'm interested to see how much different it feels compared to the incorrect 11-13 map which, with a bit of extra fuel on the low circuit, runs nice. It's times like this that I really dig the big bad web, THANK YOU SIR!

 

[mebgardner]

You're welcome. Glad to help.

 

[Xclimation]

My first fuel injected bike so go easy....

I'm not seeing advantages of having the PCV over this?

This (PCFC-22041) to me seems to have more and better adjustments. The PCV just seems to have inputs to add other components like the Auto Tune, LCD screen, etc. which don't seem necessary if the PCFC-22041 gets dialed in to what the rider likes the best. One can load the MAPs based on one's exhaust, intake and then fine tune it using the dials. And to carry it further....one can bring it to a professional tuner and have their bike dynoed on a proper dyno and have the professional tuner dial it in using the dials on the PCFC-22041? Am I right, here?
It seems like I'm missing something as to why one would want the PCV over this on our specific bike?
Thank You for any replys!

Edit: I've done some more reading from reviews on other websites some of the reviews were for other bikes but I'm applying what is pertinent to ours. It seems based on some reading. I have the right idea. One thing if I read correctly....This holds 10 stored MAPS and the PCV only holds 2..... This PCFC-22041 can switch maps on the fly on the side of the road, etc. and even be fine tuned. The PCV has to be connected to a computer and can't be fine tuned.
According to 1 reviewer: this (used) to be the "juice box" and dynojet bought it from "Two Brothers" and changed the interface. Other reviewers suggested as I posted: to connect this PCFC-22041 then have it professionally dyon tuned. A professional dyno tune around my parts costs $250USD this PCFC-22041 seems to go for around $250USD with tax. So $500.00. Compared to $250 Professional dynotune, $225 on up for ECU reflash, $349.00 PCV, $230.00 for Auto-tune. So...$1054!
And when on the road and riding through different temperatures, humidity and most of all altitude......It'd be nice to just adjust on the the dials or just change over to one of the 10 preloaded maps!
One glaring issue with our bikes in enhancing performance based on my reading here on the forums: not any feasible or reasonable or even safe for the engine mods to the air box. 4 elements are needed for performance: air intake, spark/ignition, fueling, exhaust. We are kind of limited on the intake and spark/ignition side of things. I'm giving my partially informed based on experience with car engines other carbed bike engines and uninformed on fuel injected bike engines (specifically the S10) There just does NOT seem to be ANY advantage getting the PCV and/or Auto Tune. I only see disadvantages.
Correct me, please if I'm wrong: I couldn't find anywhere that one has been able to achieve more than 10 additional horsepower? That is with Full Arrow exhaust, PCV, ECU reflash, Auto tune. I would guess that one could get the same exact gains with: Arrow Full exhaust or gutted cat and PCFC-22041.
And to get on a tangent regarding Muffler/Silencers/Cans..... I don't think any of the aftermarket ones flow any better than the other. The only difference would be in sound.
I don't know. It seems like there is a lot of monies spent on no real returns or diminishing returns?
I'm not claiming to be correct. I WANT to be corrected. I'm going by my experiences with other engines, reading here and other places and just plain putting 2 and 2 together.

Just seems soooo expensive to get a professional dyno tuner, then reflash ECU, then fine tune even further using PCV and auto tune.

 

[snakebitten]

Xclimation,

First I'll agree with you that it is relatively expensive to extract all the feasible potential of this motor.
But.....although I'm no expert at these things, I am certain that the efforts will result in improvements beyond just measured horsepower gains.

In fact, I'm far more pleased with the "change" in how the bike feels and responds to throttle input. However, just re-flashing the ecu (gen 1) might have delivered a substantial portion of that improvement. The remainder, in my opinion, was mostly due to the headers.

As far as my butt dyno goes, the electronic wizardry of the PCV and autotuner lent more to an ability to smoothen-refine the much "uncorked" attitude of the ecu+headers.

Just my opinion. Again, I'm no expert, but the ECU reflash was NOT a subtle change for me. Nor were the headers.
Both played a significant role in my own falling-in-love with a bike I was convinced had the potential of winning me.

The rest is history. Once truly smitten, I went all-out to build the bike I knew I was dreaming of.

 

[Xclimation]

snakebitten, I respect what you have to say. I'm not at all complaining or even complaining about the bike or power. I'm coming from a cruiser that weighed more and made less torque and horsepower. My question/comment/amateur uniformed summation was about the advantages of the ECU reflash/PCV/Auto tune with after market slip on/muffler/can and headers vs. PC FC 22041 plus after market muffler/can/slip and headers. I just don't see the advantages of the first choice and spending the monies and not having the flexibility of switching maps on the side of the road (unless you carry a laptop)

But I could be wrong and my post was fact finding.