Creeping Forward in neutral when bike is first started

2by4

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Hi All:
I have a 2017 Super Tenere ES and have noticed that when I first start the bike (in neutral clutch lever in) and let it run until the temp is ~ 105 degrees that when I shift into 1st gear (clutch still in) the bike wants to move forward. Also when cold the clutch lever has more play in it that after I have been riding. Once I have ridden a few miles this all goes away and the bike behaves like all the bikes I have ever ridden.

Has anybody else had this problem. One dealer told me it is normal until the oil warms up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
2by4
 

limey

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Try bleeding the clutch, but mine does the same.
 

WJBertrand

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If you're not using a synthetic oil, consider switching. Sounds like viscous drag caused by cold oil. Synthetics are known to flow much more freely when cold than conventional oils and should reduce this effect.
 

OldRider

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I'm all in favor of the proper synthetic oil, but switching to it would only serve to mask a problem that needs to be fixed. S10's with dino oil should not creep foreword with the clutch pulled in. If's there's no mechanical problem with the clutch I would suspect air in the system that needs to be got out. Find a new dealer too because they don't all do that.
 

Gregory

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Yes, mine was the same.

It's nothing to do with the engine oil.

The grease they use in the slave cylinder piston is very thick ..Too thick.. just remove the three bolts and remove the slave cylinder from the clutch casing. Give it a clean, re grease it and re-assemble

Mines now fine after I removed the slave cylinder, gave it a clean and used a less viscous grease. The cylinder sticks a little in the bore when cold..

Greg
 

Sierra1

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On several of my past bikes, when on the center stand, in neutral, the back tire would begin to turn. Never caused an issue. I know that my Tenere is MUCH easier to push in neutral than in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. (engine off of course). So, it seems normal to me.
 

WJBertrand

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OldRider said:
I'm all in favor of the proper synthetic oil, but switching to it would only serve to mask a problem that needs to be fixed. S10's with dino oil should not creep foreword with the clutch pulled in. If's there's no mechanical problem with the clutch I would suspect air in the system that needs to be got out. Find a new dealer too because they don't all do that.
I guess I could have been more clear. Of course my advice follows any trouble shooting / repairs in case the problem persists.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Madhatter

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my bike is 5 years old and 30k on miles and still moves the back tire when on the center stand... don't really notice when starting off stand , I guess its finally broke in...
 

OldRider

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Sierra1 said:
On several of my past bikes, when on the center stand, in neutral, the back tire would begin to turn. Never caused an issue. I know that my Tenere is MUCH easier to push in neutral than in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. (engine off of course). So, it seems normal to me.
This is because it has a constant mesh transmission. Gears are spinning and there's enough friction to turn the countershaft.
 

Dogdaze

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ottawast said:
When you start the bike cold, operate the clutch lever a couple of times before you shift into gear - problem solved.
Not really. What the OP is describing is 'clutch drag'. I had the exact same issue, when sitting in traffic in gear, if I were to blip the throttle to let the drivers know I was there, it would creep forward. I replaced the clutch basket, all the plates and bled the master cylinder several times before the issue disappeared........................... as soon as I sold it O:)
 

WJBertrand

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Madhatter said:
my bike is 5 years old and 30k on miles and still moves the back tire when on the center stand... don't really notice when starting off stand , I guess its finally broke in...
Every motorcycle I've owned has done this when cold. The wheel will usually stop spinning once the engine and oil has warmed up a little bit.
 

Dogdaze

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We need to clarify if the OP is describing clutch drag while the bike is in gear and wheels on ground (not normal to feel the bike wants to move forward with clutch lever pulled) or if on center stand and the wheel spins up (this is normal on any bike).
 

2by4

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The problem that I am seeing is that the bike wants to move forward when I put it in 1st gear from neutral after starting it up and letting it warm up to ~ 105 degrees with the clutch in (in neutral). I am using regular oil not synthetic.
 

OldRider

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Bleed the clutch line first and make sure there isn't any air in it. You will need to get a Mighty vac or similar pump and pull the air and fluid out with vacuum. Take the bleeder valve all the way out and wrap the threads with some pipe tape so as not to pull air in around the threads. You can run a gallon of fluid through the line the old fashioned way and still never get all the air out. Get a vacuum pump.
 

2daMax

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Alternative way to bleed either clutch or brakes is the One Man Brake Bleed method. To prevent air from back flowing into the nipple, the tube has to be soaked with brake fluid at the other end. You can use water too if you are short on Brake fluid to fill the bottle. Then loosen up the nipple and pump the clutch lever repeatedly to move out the fluid, taking care not to empty out completely the reservoir, else air gets in. I did empty out the reservoir a couple of times as it was a noobie experience but the air is easily removed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfTmlOZbXgs
 

AdvToorer

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The clutch lever on my 2012 probably has 1/2 - 3/4" of movement before any hint of hitting the friction zone and the bike also experiences some forward push when in gear and clutch fully engaged. I've bled the lines several times over the years as normal maintenance and it's made no change in behavior. It's not plausible this is due to air in line preventing clutch from fully disengaging.
 
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