Cooling fan has stopped Working

Anthonypowell

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Hi
Can anybody help, on my Tenere the Cooling fan has stopped working, have checked the Fan which is working fine and swapped relays and this makes no difference, just wondering if there is a temperature sensor to activate the fan within the radiator.

Thanks
Tony
 

Dogdaze

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First of all, how do you know it's not working? Mine normally kicks on at 101-104°C is this not happening to your's? If it is then look for the sender unit, but this subject has been raised a few times. If you checked the fan is operational then there is nothing lodged in the blades, so this can be discounted.
 

Anthonypowell

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Hi
The Fan does not come on at all , noted first time it went up to 112 before coming on then after stopped working. it has nothing to do with the amount of times it comes on as it always kicked in on 105 before so used to that.
 

Checkswrecks

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Hi Anthony -
You said in your profile that you have a 2012, so it wouldn't be surprising if in the last 5 years it's fallen on the left side, where the fan is. Folks have learned that it's possible for the fan impeller to be pinched and then the motor burns out. It's also possible for the fan to be pressed into the radiator and cause a leak.


It takes some digging to get to the fan and electrical connector, then you can see if 12V applied directly at the connector causes the fan to run. If you need a new one, ordering the Yamaha fan directly is very expensive, so be aware that you can press the impeller off and use a motor from other bikes.


As always, the search function is your friend:
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=15835.msg248006#msg248006
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=12204.msg198311#msg198311
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=22438.msg317173#msg317173
 

EricV

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Anthonypowell said:
Hi
Can anybody help, on my Tenere the Cooling fan has stopped working, have checked the Fan which is working fine and swapped relays and this makes no difference, just wondering if there is a temperature sensor to activate the fan within the radiator.

Thanks
Tony
Yes, there is a coolant temp sensor located to the right of the thermostat cover between the throttle bodies. Though if you're seeing a coolant temp reading on the gauge cluster, that would indicated it's working well enough.

page 8-29 in the 2014-2015 FSM, (sorry, no longer have a '12 manual), offers some diagnostic checks. Not sure if things are the same for the '12, but there is a radiator fan fuse, so check that if you haven't yet. Sounds like you believe the relay is ok and you checked the fan itself already, (applied 12v and it worked?), so that leaves the coolant temp sensor, wiring and the ECU. Usually it's the cheap and easy stuff.

If you haven't done so yet, check the fuse for the radiator fan motor. (I assume the bike runs fine otherwise, if not, check the fuel injection main and ignition fuses as well).

The FSM suggests checking the main switch, fan motor and fan motor relay next. Note that although the relays appear to be the same, at least for the 2014/2015, they are not and require different test processes. They fan relay is shown as fairly standard, but with different pins being the output than other relays of the same physical configuration. Swapping relays might not be an adequate test. (FWIW, the headlight relay appears to be the same configuration.)

Then pull the air box so you can get to the coolant temp sensor. Checking the coolant temp sensor requires removing it and immersing it in water of different temps, then checking the resistance across the pins with a DMM. 2320-2590 ohms at 20C and 310-326 ohms at 80C are the two tests listed. Don't get the terminals wet! The torque for the coolant temp sensor is 18 Nm (1.8 m-kg, 13 ft/lbs)

Hope this helps. As an aside, if you applied 12v to the fan and it seems to operate normally with brisk rotation, checked the fan motor fuse and tested it with a DMM for continuity, (a fuse that looks good can still be bad sometimes), I would test the relay before digging further, especially if you are still seeing apparently good temp readings on the dash read out.

Apply 12v and ground to the upper pins in the T shaped connector of the relay, look for continuity in the two pins in the leg of the T. With the T shape, + is shown as upper left with - as upper right. Tester + probe as bottom of the T leg and tester - probe as next up from the bottom of the T.
 

Cycledude

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On Mine the temperature varies a lot on when the fan actually kicks in , I think the temperature readings are actually pretty inaccurate.
 

bob dirt

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Nice explanation Eric. It kinda makes me want to have a bike with problems so I could get my hands dirty and work on it!
 

EricV

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I know not everyone will spend the coin for a FSM, so since I have one, if I have time I try to help out. This forum is full of great people that have made wonderful contributions to help others here. From tips and tricks and walk throughs of basic service procedures to pulling parts off their bikes and shipping them to other countries. Plus, someone will search on this issue some day and hopefully this thread will help them out.

@ Tony, please post a resolution when you get the fan going so others will benefit from the things you learned. ::008::
 

Cycledude

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Today I had to wait quite a while at a stoplight , looked down at the temperature and it was showing 221 degrees, a few seconds later the fan kicked in for what I'm pretty sure was the first time on today's ride, Usually it kicks in at less than 200 degrees.
 

Don in Lodi

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Cycledude said:
Today I had to wait quite a while at a stoplight , looked down at the temperature and it was showing 221 degrees, a few seconds later the fan kicked in for what I'm pretty sure was the first time on today's ride, Usually it kicks in at less than 200 degrees.

221 is where it should turn on. 200 is too early.
 

Ron Earp

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Second that. Seems I remember 217F or 221F for the on point with my bike. It's definitely not 200F, at least not according to the display.
 

Nikolajsen

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Cycledude said:
On Mine the temperature varies a lot on when the fan actually kicks in , I think the temperature readings are actually pretty inaccurate.
I really don't understand :question: :question:
I believe that the fan should start at the same temperature every time.
 

Checkswrecks

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Nikolajsen said:
I really don't understand :question: :question:
I believe that the fan should start at the same temperature every time.
The thermostat can delay things by sticking slightly over time. Plus, commercial thermal switches like these have a pretty wide manufacturing tolerance that only widens with age. Even the high-end aerospace ones can have a 5C tolerance unless specified to be more accurate.
 

Nikolajsen

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Checkswrecks said:
The thermostat can delay things by sticking slightly over time. Plus, commercial thermal switches like these have a pretty wide manufacturing tolerance that only widens with age. Even the high-end aerospace ones can have a 5C tolerance unless specified to be more accurate.
Thank you ::008::
Never experienced that the temperature where the fan starts, haven't been the same for all the time I had a bike...yet :-\
 

Anthonypowell

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Thanks for all the replies

The Fault was in the connection under the Air box, There is a connection there which powers the fan and the metal connectors
within the plastic housing had gone green so cleaned them of and a spray of WD 40 and now the fan cuts in every time, but in
doing this and after screwing everything back together I now have a fault code of 22 showing so will have to check
if all the wires went back correctly.

Just wondering by starting the engine with the air box off would induce this code,
 

EricV

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Did you try to start the engine w/o the air intake temp sensor plugged in? 22 is the code for the air intake temp sensor short circuit or open circuit. If it's plugged in now, don't worry about it.
 

Cycledude

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Don in Lodi said:
221 is where it should turn on. 200 is too early.
Apparently you are correct I've been watching pretty close the past couple days and every time the temp reached 221 the fans kicked in
 
R

RonH

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Yes fan always comes on at 221 and goes off at 212. There is no variation in that. There is tolerance of course to the sensor itself. It may be off by a few degrees one way or the other, but the sensor does not turn on the fan, the ECU does. The sensor feeds a voltage to the ECU, and when that voltage equals 221 in the ECU programming, the ECU then turns on the fan. It's not a simple thermal switch by any means.
 

Don in Lodi

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RonH said:
Yes fan always comes on at 221 and goes off at 212. There is no variation in that. There is tolerance of course to the sensor itself. It may be off by a few degrees one way or the other, but the sensor does not turn on the fan, the ECU does. The sensor feeds a voltage to the ECU, and when that voltage equals 221 in the ECU programming, the ECU then turns on the fan. It's not a simple thermal switch by any means.

::008::
 
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