Cool starting issue

[Rare1]

Purchased a 2012 Super T and put 47,000 km on the odometer before trading it for a 2018 ES model. My 2018 now has over 56,000 km and just within the last few months when starting the bike, cool engine (garaged) +5 C up to 24 C. Key is placed to the “on” position ( all the way ), wait while the fuel pump primes and then press Run. The engine fires up immediately, with no throttle input, runs for about 1- 1.5 secs then stops. On the 2nd try, no throttle, the engine hesitates slightly but stays running. If the start switch is held briefly during the first try after the engine starts the motor will stay running or if the throttle is opened ever so slightly during the initial start and the start switch is held for a bit after the engine starts it will stay running. After the engine has run for a minute I can shut it off and it restarts with no issues. My 2012 Super T did not have this issue.
Anyone else out there with more than 30,000 mi (50,000 km) with this problem? I just added Sea-Foam injector cleaner and my last service had the throats cleaned. Using a K&N Air Filter which was also cleaned last service. Using Spectro Semi synthetic Oil every 5000km, ( I’m a bit anal for clean oil and filter). The battery is original still and always trickle charged through the winter months in a heated garage 40 F. The bike is run every 2-3 weeks during the winter until the engine Rad fan starts. Motor roll-over is quick so I know the battery is fine ( it tested 14.2 VDC last service ). The bike fuel has always been hi-test 91 Octane.
The Super T is a great long distance comfortable tourer. It has seen many many 1000km days. I absolutely love the bike even though it is a bit heavy, but coming from FJR13’s the upright ride, extra legroom and wide handlebars make for a stable controllable platform.

 

[escapefjrtist]

My '18 only has 9k on it (multiple bikes, including an FJR!) but occasionally exhibits the very same symptoms. Only on cold starts, say below 40F, engine hits the first time and then dies. Adding throttle while cranking keeps it running after it fires. Since it was a left over NOS and had been sitting for around 2 years, I figured the battery was toast. Installed a new 14S battery which did nothing. Warmer weather starts, hits the first time and stays running. Tried everything I could think of...check TBS, turn air screws 3/4 turn out, same drill. With more miles plus had it flashed by 2WDW and it *seems* the issue has gone away. This winter will tell. My '12 didn't exhibit these starting shenanigans either.

~G

 

[Sierra1]

We've actually dropped into the 70sF for our lows. I've noticed since it's cooler, when the motor starts, the rpms pulse between 600-1200rpm. It does that for about 5 seconds, and then steadies out. When the temp drops below 50F, the "choke" stays on, and it idles at about 1400rpm. . . . until the air temps goes above 50F. Makes it interesting riding around town.

 

[sandro1973]

Purchased a 2012 Super T and put 47,000 km on the odometer before trading it for a 2018 ES model. My 2018 now has over 56,000 km and just within the last few months when starting the bike, cool engine (garaged) +5 C up to 24 C. Key is placed to the “on” position ( all the way ), wait while the fuel pump primes and then press Run. The engine fires up immediately, with no throttle input, runs for about 1- 1.5 secs then stops. On the 2nd try, no throttle, the engine hesitates slightly but stays running. If the start switch is held briefly during the first try after the engine starts the motor will stay running or if the throttle is opened ever so slightly during the initial start and the start switch is held for a bit after the engine starts it will stay running. After the engine has run for a minute I can shut it off and it restarts with no issues. My 2012 Super T did not have this issue.
Anyone else out there with more than 30,000 mi (50,000 km) with this problem? I just added Sea-Foam injector cleaner and my last service had the throats cleaned. Using a K&N Air Filter which was also cleaned last service. Using Spectro Semi synthetic Oil every 5000km, ( I’m a bit anal for clean oil and filter). The battery is original still and always trickle charged through the winter months in a heated garage 40 F. The bike is run every 2-3 weeks during the winter until the engine Rad fan starts. Motor roll-over is quick so I know the battery is fine ( it tested 14.2 VDC last service ). The bike fuel has always been hi-test 91 Octane.
The Super T is a great long distance comfortable tourer. It has seen many many 1000km days. I absolutely love the bike even though it is a bit heavy, but coming from FJR13’s the upright ride, extra legroom and wide handlebars make for a stable controllable platform.

Have a look here, same issue :

Sporadic Start Failure ( NOT "hard-start" issue....)

Hi guys, I ran this question on a local ( portuguese ) FB Group, some folks told it also happens ramdomly to them....no apparent reason that anyone knows, even with new less than 1 year old bikes. Really simple to explain..... Key ON, fuel pump builds pressure, ignition button, bike seems...

www.yamahasupertenere.com

My mechanic feedback on this was related to low-pressure on the fuel pump to make things moving on colder days on a cold engine. I'm now cycling the ignition twice, increasing pressure on the fuel pump for those early morning, cold starts. I'm giving this a go during the winter and see if it pans out.

 

[Drif10]

Mine is harder to start cold if I let the pump cycle. But if I hit the button right after turning the key, it fires right up. Doesn't really make sense, but that's how it's happy, so I just go with it.

 

[StefanOnHisS10]

Purchased a 2012 Super T and put 47,000 km on the odometer before trading it for a 2018 ES model. My 2018 now has over 56,000 km and just within the last few months when starting the bike, cool engine (garaged) +5 C up to 24 C. Key is placed to the “on” position ( all the way ), wait while the fuel pump primes and then press Run. The engine fires up immediately, with no throttle input, runs for about 1- 1.5 secs then stops. On the 2nd try, no throttle, the engine hesitates slightly but stays running. If the start switch is held briefly during the first try after the engine starts the motor will stay running or if the throttle is opened ever so slightly during the initial start and the start switch is held for a bit after the engine starts it will stay running. After the engine has run for a minute I can shut it off and it restarts with no issues. My 2012 Super T did not have this issue.
Anyone else out there with more than 30,000 mi (50,000 km) with this problem? I just added Sea-Foam injector cleaner and my last service had the throats cleaned. Using a K&N Air Filter which was also cleaned last service. Using Spectro Semi synthetic Oil every 5000km, ( I’m a bit anal for clean oil and filter). The battery is original still and always trickle charged through the winter months in a heated garage 40 F. The bike is run every 2-3 weeks during the winter until the engine Rad fan starts. Motor roll-over is quick so I know the battery is fine ( it tested 14.2 VDC last service ). The bike fuel has always been hi-test 91 Octane.
The Super T is a great long distance comfortable tourer. It has seen many many 1000km days. I absolutely love the bike even though it is a bit heavy, but coming from FJR13’s the upright ride, extra legroom and wide handlebars make for a stable controllable platform.

I suggest you read post No4 from @sandro1973 and read that thread. It sounds the same.

 

[sandro1973]

Just an update....since i took my mechanics advice on cycling the key twice before cold starts ( increasing pressure on the fuel pump ), it's been cranking with no further issues.

The lithium battery is also proving its worth on this bike, the cranking feels and sounds strong as it never did with the regular-type batteries, barely looses power ( in 10 days, it went from a stable 13,34v to 13,33v.... )

Cold start after 10 days parked in the garage :

 

[bimota]

i always thought if you cycled the key twice and the pump cycled twice it would flood and struggle to start

rob

 

[sandro1973]

i always thought if you cycled the key twice and the pump cycled twice it would flood and struggle to start

rob

That might be true if the bike is already warmed up, but in a cold start, i suppose it will be like pulling the CHOKE a bit more on a carburated bike, it will allow to enrichen the mixture for a better cold start.

Since i've started doing this, as adviced from my mechanic ( who has decades under his belt ), it never shut down again after starting.

 

[bimota]

That might be true if the bike is already warmed up, but in a cold start, i suppose it will be like pulling the CHOKE a bit more on a carburated bike, it will allow to enrichen the mixture for a better cold start.

Since i've started doing this, as adviced from my mechanic ( who has decades under his belt ), it never shut down again after starting.

wow,

i,ll try that in the winter over here in the UK, see how better it is cheers

rob

 

[Sierra1]

i always thought if you cycled the key twice and the pump cycled twice it would flood and struggle to start

rob

I don't think it makes a difference . . . . as long as you don't touch anything. I don't touch the start button until it's finished with the little screen warm up thing. If I try to start it while it's doing that . . . . messes everything up.

 

[sandro1973]

I don't think it makes a difference . . . . as long as you don't touch anything. I don't touch the start button until it's finished with the little screen warm up thing. If I try to start it while it's doing that . . . . messes everything up.

Believe me it does....on colder days i was getting the random "starting and shutting off " thing and it stopped doing it, 2 months doing the 2x cycling of the key, so far, so good.

As you say, touching the start button before everything cycles can mess things up ( i once even had the ES light on until i restarted the bike ), letting go of the starter before hearing the engine running, is enough to get a non-start or weird things happening.

 

[sandro1973]

Go figure...randomly, sometimes if fails on 1st start attempt, sometimes it doesn't...

This morning....overnight cold start

6 hours later...also cold start

 

[Sierra1]

Keep the starter pushed until she really starts. I'm surprised that it started right away after not starting. Usually, a "not start" really screws her up.

 

[sandro1973]

Keep the starter pushed until she really starts. I'm surprised that it started right away after not starting. Usually, a "not start" really screws her up.

I'm not 100% sure , but i have the impression that i didn't leave the starter button, it felt like it just stopped doing its thing and had to re-press it...i'll never know now.

When i got home and the bike was warm, it started fine.

Usually i have that thought in mind and don't leave the button until i hear things going. Maybe i didn't notice it.

This was in the morning, hours before...no issues.

 

[WJBertrand]

I was getting the start then stall issue for the first time this past summer on my tour to Utah. It was intermittent but happened both on cold and warm starting, such as after a gas stop. It continued to occasionally happen after I got home too.

Since the bike was due for a major service I performed that, new plugs, air filter, throttle body sync and valve clearance inspection (no adjustments needed). I also changed oil and filter. Since then, interestingly, the start-stall thing has not happened again.


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