Clutch Slipping, easy fix

[TOS]

I saw several threads about high speed clutch slipping. Thought I'd post my experience as a troubleshoot before replacing your clutch plates.
On a recent road trip, I noticed when I hammered the throttle passing cars (even at higher speeds in top gear) I noticed the RPM was going a little higher than the speed being produced. After doing this several times it was an obvious problem and I had 100's of miles left to my destination, so I started taking it more easy on the clutch. So, when I reached my friends house we removed the lid and checked the clutch fluid. It was very dark colored, like used motor oil. I evacuated the reservoir and filled with fresh DOT 4. I also tried to clean around the clutch plunger at the master cylinder, in case it might be sticking. I didn't want to go too deep into troubleshooting while on the road and a weekend. Next day, rode about 130 miles and clutch was slipping less but still slipping some.
Today I looked at the fluid in clutch reservoir, which was somewhat dark again. I carefully bled and refilled clutch lines and reservoir until all discolored fluid was gone. Took her out for a test ride and no more clutch slipping. I still can't believe it was that simple and just changing out old fluid fixed my problem. I'm a happy rider again.

 

[Tenman]

How long had it been since you flushed it? Curious

 

[Mellow]

I do mine every year at a minimum just because it's so easy... sometimes I just do it again because I'm bored that need something to do, pretty much the same w/final drive fluid, always gets changed when I do the oil at minimum. Good to see it wasn't the clutch itself Tim.

 

[ballisticexchris]

I do mine at the same time along with the brakes. Normally twice a season. When racing, after each race

 

[Grumpy]

I was told by my local mechanic (who do's the bit's that I can't) that old fluid will rot the seals. As said, it's an easy job to do.

 

[Squibb]

Seems to have been forgotten in the Service Schedule, just a check of the fluid level & lubing the pivot.
I would have thought every 2 years, along with the brake fluid, would suffice TBH, unless you are a high mileage user.

 

[Sierra1]

Would the small reservoir cause the fluid to wear out sooner? I don't know why it would. I've never had, or heard of, clutch fluid causing those symptoms. But, I've never seen a reservoir that small either. Guess I'll be flushing more frequently.

 

[TOS]

How long had it been since you flushed it? Curious

Well...shame on me, never changed it.
I'm the 2nd owner (since 2 yrs ago @ 8.8K) and apparently previous owner didn't ck/change it either. I forgot to include it has 51.4K on the odo. I just totally skipped it, maybe because there's no sight glass on it (which should have clued me in to looking at level). Oh well, I ain't perfect and this time I got lucky.

 

[TOS]

Would the small reservoir cause the fluid to wear out sooner? I don't know why it would. I've never had, or heard of, clutch fluid causing those symptoms. But, I've never seen a reservoir that small either. Guess I'll be flushing more frequently.

I would think each year or two (depending on mileage and climate) would be sufficient. Pretty sure this fluid was original from the factory.

 

[ballisticexchris]

Well...shame on me, never changed it.
I'm the 2nd owner (since 2 yrs ago @ 8.8K) and apparently previous owner didn't ck/change it either. I forgot to include it has 51.4K on the odo. I just totally skipped it, maybe because there's no sight glass on it (which should have clued me in to looking at level). Oh well, I ain't perfect and this time I got lucky.

At least you got it done and alerted other ST members here. Thank you for that. I'm willing to bet there are a bunch of owners who just ride the piss out of these bikes and do very little maintenance if any at all.

 

[2daMax]

I found that the clutch fluid requires more frequent changes than for the brakes. It turns darker faster than the brakes. The dark color comes from the rubber seals materials, read it from somewhere. Also, the clutching lever effort gets better with fresh fluids. Dun forget to actuate the lever a few times and then do another flush (after the initial flush). I did see a couple of bubbles coming out.

Are there any difference between a Gen1 and Gen2 Clutch master and slave assembly? I helped a friend with a Gen 2 who has never flushed the clutch and after flushing, it became a single finger easy to actuate the lever. Before that, it was quite an effort. Mine ....I can't do it with a single finger and mine is a Gen1. Maybe I need more flushing sessions.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Are there any difference between a Gen1 and Gen2 Clutch master and slave assembly? I helped a friend with a Gen 2 who has never flushed the clutch and after flushing, it became a single finger easy to actuate the lever. Before that, it was quite an effort. Mine ....I can't do it with a single finger and mine is a Gen1. Maybe I need more flushing sessions.

Nope. Same parts.

 

[Davesax36]

Just out of curiosity what are we suppose to use for clutch fluid. Have not done mine yet. Getting to be time. Watched some videos on how to. My Harley’s did not have hydraulic.

Dot 3-4 brake fluid.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Squibb]

Just out of curiosity what are we suppose to use for clutch fluid. Have not done mine yet. Getting to be time. Watched some videos on how to. My Harley’s did not have hydraulic.

Check the reservoir cap - it says DOT 4 on mine

 

[HeliMark]

Book also says DOT 4 only.

 

[ballisticexchris]

I would suggest DOT 5.1. If you are braking hard enough to get the rotors glowing and good about flushing your system a few times a year, then 600/660 series is hard to beat.

 

[TOS]

The lid on my 2013 Master Cylinder states DOT 4. I've read somewhere, you can go with a higher number DOT, but DO NOT go down with the DOT #.... It may not be compatible.

 

[Checkswrecks]

The lid on my 2013 Master Cylinder states DOT 4. I've read somewhere, you can go with a higher number DOT, but DO NOT go down with the DOT #.... It may not be compatible.

NO. This is only possible with DOT 3 and 4, not 5.

DOT 3 and 4 are glycol-based while DOT 5 is silicon based, so don't mix them. If you really were to use 5.1, then you'd have to disassemble EVERY part and clean them thoroughly. Because of the ABS pump, this is not practical.

 

[RonH]

Actually, you can use Dot5.1 if you want to. It mixes with dot 3 or 4 and has better ratings, but for our use I can't see any need to use it on the street. Maybe for roadracing ect where boiling temp may be factor. Don't use Dot5 though, as it's a whole different chemistry. Dot 5.1=OK
Dot5=NOT OK.
This being said, and we've all read how Dot5 can't be used, I swapped all my old Kawasakis over to Dot5 as I didn't know any better. This was when Dot5 first came out, like the mid 80s. They still have dot5 in them and to this day I've never had any problems. No worry of eating paint is why I switched, as they sit around in storage a long time between rides.

 

[Scoti49]

Very good advice [U]Checkswrecks[/U] ,10 out of ten