Clutch/Brake lever position adjusting dial.

MFP

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#1
In the last month I have developed what has been diagnosed as “tennis elbow” in my left arm (I am right handed). Never had any problems in either arm but I am at the age when these sort of maladies start to pop up.
I went out for a quick ride on Wednesday night and it was quite painful in my forearm pulling in the clutch for shifting. I was supposed to go on a group ride today but I had to bail out.
Regarding the lever position adjusting dial for both the clutch and the brake levers I turned the dials from 1-4 on both levers and did not see or feel any difference whatsoever, am I missing something here?
Lastly, any folks out there in the past or present ever have to deal with tennis elbow in either arm?
Besides the obvious of taking anti-inflammatory meds, physical therapy, resting the arm and backing off from using the arm when possible does anyone have some advice for some other measures to help along the way?
 

Longdog Cymru

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#2
The adjustment simply increases or decreases the distance of the lever from the handlebar, it doesn’t affect the effort required.

I had an issue with tennis elbow in my right arm. After 3 cortisone injections, ( 2 worked, the last one didn’t), my doctor said surgery was the only option and it worked for me.
 

gv550

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#4
I recall reading on this forum about an aftermarket slave cylinder that had a larger piston to reduce the effort required to pull the clutch lever. Hopefully someone can chime in with the details.
 

MFP

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#5
The adjustment simply increases or decreases the distance of the lever from the handlebar, it doesn’t affect the effort required.
Thanks, so is position #1 the most distance or the least distance from the handlebar?
The owners manual is kind of vague.
 

Cycledude

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#7
The different settings make hardly any difference for me but of course I’m not someone that has difficulty pulling the levers. My Goldwing has pretty much the same set up, to me it seems like the manufacturers mostly wasted money putting them on.
I was talking to a Harley rider the other day riding a 2005 that doesn’t have hydraulic it’s cables and he really has a hard time holding the clutch while stopped.
 

Clawdog60

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#10
Do you use all of your fingers every pull?
I switch between the 4 sometimes during shifts and use all 4 for starting and stopped/hold if a elbow,finger or wrist act up. Little travel is needed for shifts. A teaspoon of Unrefined vinegar a day seems to make my TE go away.
 

BaldKnob

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#11
I struggled with the 1st Gen handlebar shape, experiencing tennis elbow and back/shoulder discomfort. After installing a ProTaper bar (with risers), all of the pain I had was relieved. I did, eventually, had to have my left elbow injected but I attribute that to years of clutching motorcycles. YMMV
 

dannyv

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#16
As mentioned, elbow brace. If you get it in the right spot, it may help in just a few hours. But I don't wear mine while riding, it seems to cut circulation. But later, after riding, it sure helps. An Ibuprofen can't hurt either.

Try paddling canoes for a few decades, see what that does to your elbows and rotator cups!
 

EricV

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#19
I've had TE a few times after long repetitive use sessions. Working as a Parks employee and trimming grasses with hand snips in the spring. There are two types of braces for this. One is a simple band, the other is more substantial. I found the more substantial one to help me a lot more and reduce pain, plus helping it go away much faster than the simple band. Most places like Walgreens or other pharmacy type places will have both types.

The OffTheRoad people have a replacement slave cylinder that does reduce effort. A few people have reported about it. I haven't tried it personally. LINK Search for the threads, there was some info about needing to modify the spring on some bikes.
 
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#20
I too have aftermarket levers that help a lot. I use a shorty on the brake and long lever on the clutch. Mine are the high end ASV C5 levers. I've been using his levers for almost 15 years. They have a very precise adjustment wheel (180 increments) and stainless bushings at pivot point. These levers are bulletproof!! My KTM had done dozens of rock tumbles and the levers worked just the same as brand new when I sold the bike.
ASV:
https://asvinventions.com/c5-series-sport-clutch-lever-crc545/

Another option is to see if you can get a Midwest Mountain Lever to work. Those levers are awesome for reducing clutch pull. The disadvantage is they offer little in the way of reach adjustability. They're a little fiddly to get the engagement just right. My buddy had one on his Beta 300 and it really made a difference. Super light pull.
Midwest Mountain :
http://www.midwestme.com/products.html#Clutch

I do not recommend any kind of aftermarket slave. I have yet to see one that works better than the OEM ones.
 
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