Clutch Basket Remove/Upgrade/Installation

npj1966

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Aug 17, 2014
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Fairfield County, CT, United States
Dogdaze said:
::008:: Glad you liked the change. How long did the complete job take you in the end?
I took my time to look at all the plates and spacers as I broke it all down so it was around 45 minutes. Having never been inside a clutch before, I was curious. It would have taken 20-30 minutes had I not done the inspection/exploration. Also, I just hit 10k miles so the plates appeared to be in good shape.

-NPJ
 

ace50

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May 19, 2015
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VA
npj1966 said:
Thanks to Koinz, Dogdaze and Don in Lodi for the write-up and the encouragement to do this Basket swap. All I can say is WOW! This makes the bike feel brand new!!!
THIS SHOULD HAVE BEEN A RECALL though, as the difference is Day and Night.
::026:: I agree!
 

smalls78

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Aug 4, 2017
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North Carolina
I'm about to button up the primary cover after replacing the clutch basket. I have a question regarding clutch plates and their placement. I have read several of the replies here in regards to this. I never separated plate 1 and plate 2, they were left "stock". I simply pulled them out, placed facedown and then replaced them the same way. However, in regards to the dimple on the clutch basket this does not make sense. I am assuming that the clutch basket does not have a certain placement, rather the dimple is simply a reference point just to let you know that plate 1 and plate 2 should be separated or offset, i.e. plate 1 is 3 or 4 spots over from basket dimple, and plate 2 is 4 or 5 spots over...respectively to plate 1 position?
 

Eric R

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Jun 18, 2015
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Pekin, IL.
I'm in the same boat as smalls....from what I gather....all the other friction plates can go in basically any way in regards to the notch on the plate/dimple on the basket?? only friction plate 2 and 1 need to offset from the dimple ?? I'm just now doing this..I know I know...I'm slow...haha. I'm not putting it back together till I know for sure. I don't know why I'm second guessing myself, but better to be safe than sorry!!
 

fraserdog

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May 18, 2016
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Brize Norton,Oxfordshire.
After long last i have now upgraded to the Gen 2 basket,i've just put it all back together following the write up in this thread and i think i have made a blunder, i marked friction plate 1 in relation to the dimple but and replaced it in the right position but friction plate 2 was just put in wherever as i didn't know untill i read the link about friction plate 2 being 5 slots off from the dimple,i have just come back off road test and all seems well,should i have it all apart again and move plate 2 or leave s is? What damage can it cause if left like it is?
 

Dogdaze

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I did the exact same thing when I first did my Gen 1, rode it and it felt fine. But it bugged me so I striped it out and did it again. Took me all of 20 mins to correct it. 20 mins well spent to not have a nagging feeling when riding.
 

fraserdog

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May 18, 2016
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Brize Norton,Oxfordshire.
Yes,i'll think i'll have it apart again and get it in the right position,now i've done it once it's not a prob.I do notice now that the bike seems to "clonk" into first gear from a standstill a bit more than it did before,perhaps it's a the plate misalignment, i doubt it but i might aswell put it back as the factory specs.
 

Dogdaze

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What else did you change out? I had the heavy 'clunk' into 1st too, as I changed out new everything, I put the old plates back in and it was fine again, seemed not to like the new plates......
 

Dogdaze

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Open it up put the plates in the 'right' order, bolt it back up and ride it. There really is not much that can go wrong, if you put everything back in that you took out. Then bleed the clutch fluid, sometimes, air gets in or the seals invert themselves in the mastercylinder.
 

Eric R

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Jun 18, 2015
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Pekin, IL.
Has anyone had this issue? I put in the '14 clutch basket....stock friction plates back in....stock pressure plate etc. Ever since I did this..when on the center stand...I'll put it in 1st and the rear tire spools up to 8mph even when the clutch is pulled in. I've bled the clutch system like 5 times, but it still does it. The only reason I noticed this issue is when I went for a test ride initially and when at a stop sign, I let up on the front brake, and even though I had the clutch pulled in, the bike wanted to roll forward. I tried the banjo bolt trick when bleeding the system but it still does it. Took it to the dealer and he can't find anything wrong...checked all tolerances etc. I'm at a loss! Thoughts??
 

EricV

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Pull the reservoir cover off, pull the clutch lever in, tie it in the fully depressed position. Bungie cord, zip tie, what ever. Leave it that way, with the reservoir cover off, over night.

Then see if the problem persists. The small volume of the clutch reservoir can make it very difficult to get a complete bleed. Like you, I did everything, including the banjo bolt trick, but it still felt slightly off at the lever. Doing what I suggest, (another forum member suggested it to me), did the trick.

The symptoms you describe essentially suggest one of two issues. Incomplete disengagement, (most likely due to air in the system), or stuck plates. Stuck plates have occurred, but rarely on a bike that was fine before doing the basket swap. Usually on left over bikes that sat at a dealer for a long time before being sold. The new places get stuck together from lack of use and little oil circulation during the time the bike sits.

Hope that helps.
 

fraserdog

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May 18, 2016
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Brize Norton,Oxfordshire.
I am totally confused now,i have just had the clutch cover off to realign the second clutch plate which i installed wrongly first time round.When i removed the plates from the original basket i marked the lug on plate No1 in line with the dimple on the basket,i have now noticed that although i lined that mark on plate No1 up with the dimple on the new basket that only puts the nick on plate No1 two lugs off from the dimple and not 4 as in the installation,i have ignored my original mark and put plate No1 with the nick 4 lugs offset from the dimple and plate No 2 five lugs offset from the dimple.I am really confused as to what is correct now. :(
 

Boris

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Dec 21, 2013
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midlands. UK
I went to fit my new 2014 basket today, but couldn't see the job through as the fibre plates would not seat in the new basket. Odd I know, but no matter how I tried, the tabs on the friction plates would not line up with the finger channels on the new basket. After a thorough check, it was clear that one gap was slightly narrower that the others and no tabs would fit down the channel.

Will await a response from the seller before naming.
 

scott123007

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Jul 27, 2012
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Jupiter, Florida
Boris, check to see if one of the flanges (fingers?) on the basket is slightly bent. When I installed mine a couple of years ago I had a problem where the clutch was dragging and on inspection after taking it all apart again, I noticed one of the "fingers" on the basket was slightly bent (must have been dropped in shipping?) and it was making a very tight fit for one of the tabs on each of the clutch plates. I managed to carefully bend the basket finger back where it looked even with the others. The tabs then all had equal clearance and the plates then moved freely, and it worked as it should ever since. If that is not the problem, there could be a manufacturing clearance problem with the gap between the basket fingers where the clutch plate tabs go. You could try filing the "De-acceleration" side of the suspect finger until you get clearance. If I had to guess, I think it may have been damaged in shipping.
 
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