Changing out Spark plugs

coastie

Active Member
2012 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
Messages
1,825
Location
St Petersburg Florida
Hey all,

I had not seen any pictures of this, so I snapped a few pictures for those who might be hesitant to do it by themselves. It was very easy.

Not sure if there is any other way, but I just went ahead and pulled the tank off and removed the air box.


Once that is off you will see the plug coils.


Remove the retaining bolt with with a 10mm socket as pictures. The far right one is easily removed with a racketing box wrench from the front as pictured.




Once the bolt is removed, wiggle and pull plug coils until they pop off and pull them out. You will then use your ratchet and extensions with a 5/8's plug socket to remove the plugs. Here is all the tools that i needed to easily remove the plugs.


For the weekend warrior with basic mechanical skills it should take you about an hour, taking your time from start to finish.
 

BaldKnob

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2012
Messages
776
Location
SENC
Nice pics, Coastie. If an air compressor is nearby... wouldn't hurt to blow down the plug holes to remove any sand that may have accumulated under the caps.
 

terryth

New Member
Founding Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
229
Location
Blair, NE USA
I just did mine last weekend, I didn't even remove the tank, just loosened the rear bolt and tilted it up and propped it.
 

Maxified

Member
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Messages
655
Location
Northern Florida Panhandle
HA! Must be the season, just did mine last weekend. I yanked the tank though, easy enough and makes the airbox extraction a bit easier. Was nice to see my old plugs looking healthy.
 

coastie

Active Member
2012 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
Messages
1,825
Location
St Petersburg Florida
Maxified said:
HA! Must be the season, just did mine last weekend. I yanked the tank though, easy enough and makes the airbox extraction a bit easier. Was nice to see my old plugs looking healthy.
Yea I neglected mine, and waited until i got back from Colorado. Changed them out at 20k.
 

snakebitten

Well-Known Member
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Aug 6, 2011
Messages
5,681
Location
Coastal Texas
I'm the spoiled rotten wussy on this bike.
Bought a service contract.
I drink Yamaha coffee and shoot the breeze with the staff and other customers, while my ace mechanic takes care of things. :)

I hate to admit it, but it's been worth every cent I paid.

3 years, unlimited mileage, ~1200.00

They admit they shouldn't have sold me. It's a "loser" on the high mileage guys.

I have bought an air filter and some rear brake pads. (Twice)
Everything else, labor and materials, is included.
Obviously, I haven't missed a single service interval. Lol

Anyways, great job Coastie. I will probably have to do it myself at about 48,000. Or maybe 60,000?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

jaeger22

Member
2012 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Jul 1, 2012
Messages
358
Location
Orlando, FL
If an air compressor is nearby... wouldn't hurt to blow down the plug holes to remove any sand that may have accumulated under the caps.
::026::

I would say it is more than a good idea. It is essential. Otherwise any accumulated dirt and sand will fall into the spark plug hole. If very much gets in, you may soon experience smoke and oil consumption.
Been there done that. :'( Not on my S10 thank goodness!
 

avc8130

Active Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
3,269
Location
North NJ
Do the S10 spark plug wells have drain holes? My single cylinder dirt bikes had drain ports out of the bottom of the wells. Of course, these would often clog, but what I am getting at is that I would use some brake cleaner to flow out the dirt before pulling the plugs.

ac
 

RED CAT

New Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2012
Messages
1,110
Location
Calgary, Canada
If I go that far ,I'm going to check the valves too and hopefully they won't need adjusting cause that'll be a lot more work. Thanks for the pictorial. You definitely want to blow out the crud before un screwing the plugs. Then only unscrew about 1/2 way and blow out more crud before completely removing them. ::001::
 

Maxified

Member
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Messages
655
Location
Northern Florida Panhandle
jonkertb said:
and while everyone is blowing out those plug wells MAKE SURE you cover those throttle bodies or you are defeating the purpose of cleaning the wells..........
tom
Hence the red plaid rags shown in the above pics...
 

coastie

Active Member
2012 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
Messages
1,825
Location
St Petersburg Florida
BaldKnob said:
Nice pics, Coastie. If an air compressor is nearby... wouldn't hurt to blow down the plug holes to remove any sand that may have accumulated under the caps.
Yea, I did not have an air compressor and if I did have one I would have blown them out. But I would like to add that the pug caps extend down in there a good 4"-5" and are pretty wide. For anybody reading who does not have an air compressor just make sure you clean off the top of the cylinder head before removal (which I forgot to do) of the plug caps. Covering the throttle bodies with rags is the very first thing you need to do after removing the air box, before you start to clean or work on anything.
 

GrahamD

Active Member
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
Joined
Oct 9, 2010
Messages
2,149
Location
Blue Mnts - OzStralia
Thanks coastie ::008::

Will be doing this shortly. Good to get a preview.

::003::
Graham
 

Dirt_Dad

Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
5,973
Location
Northern Virginia, USA
coastie said:
Covering the throttle bodies with rags is the very first thing you need to do after removing the air box, before you start to clean or work on anything.
Yes, but whatever you do, don't get distracted and forget to remove the rag before putting it all back together. On a VStrom that will result in a check engine light .5 miles down the road.

Don't ask me how I know. ::010::
 

coastie

Active Member
2012 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
Messages
1,825
Location
St Petersburg Florida
Dirt_Dad said:
Yes, but whatever you do, don't get distracted and forget to remove the rag before putting it all back together. On a VStrom that will result in a check engine light .5 miles down the road.

Don't ask me how I know. ::010::
HAHA, thanks for the laugh! Hopefully it was an easy discovery for you.
 

Dirt_Dad

Well-Known Member
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
5,973
Location
Northern Virginia, USA
coastie said:
HAHA, thanks for the laugh! Hopefully it was an easy discovery for you.
No, it was quite annoying. Buddy came over with his wife riding pillion, my wife on her bike, me on mine. We left for a breakfast spot 45 minutes down the road. Made it about 1/2 mile when light came on. I told my wife to go on without me. I went back home and checked the engine code. Something about the secondary throttle position. DAMN-IT...I know that that means.

The day before I thought I was being so efficient working on both my wife's DL650 and my DL1000 at the same time. Had them side by side and both in the level of dis-assembly. I got them apart, went in the house for something, came back out, put in her new air filter, then paying little attention slapped a new one in mine. Didn't notice the shop rag was still in mine.

When I opened it back up it was sucked in there pretty good. Probably good I never removed the secondaries on that bike. Could have been much worse.

By the way... I also learned to only work one bike at a time after that little episode.
 
Top