Just did mine this weekend thanks to 3 days of rainy weather. its a very simple process, just take your time.
I had mine on center stand, but up on a bike platform lift.. I chose to lift my tank, just to make it easier to access, I also just slid the wiring harness over to the throttle body and did a loose zip tie to keep it out of the way.
Take off the clutch cover, take a wrench and spin the motor over so the T is horizontal to the right side (right side with you facing that side of the bike, there is a flat mark on the case that you line it up with, its not obvious at first glance, but its there). then took a 1 inch bolt and nut and used it as a wedge to keep the tensioner under full tension. because i'm anal, i also put a zip tie around the whole thing just as insurance (wasn't needed but i don't take chances).
remove the 2 bolts holding in the chain tensioner, and slide in the replacement, bring it down to tight and go 1/2 turn past and it should drop your nut/bolt wedge rig out into your hand. then back out the tensioner a 1/2 turn and you are right were the original tensioner was.
Spin the motor over 2 full turns and watch to see if the chain slacks at all (it should not with this method, but you'll feel better knowing than not knowing.
Button it all up, and start it up.. don't rev it up until it warms up a bit, let the temperature change things in the motor and then if you don't have the death rattle, you should be tight enough to ride.
A few observations.
the adjustment range is WIDE (this is more than likely why some say they never have to adjust it, still worth paying attention to, just for piece of mind, but i can see how you can get a lot of miles out of it without adjusting based on how wide the tension range is).
if you adjust it to where your automatic tensioner was, you are roughly on the loose side of middle.. the auto-cct loses tension without oil pressure and your objective is to stay on the 'slightly tighter' side of the factory one..
IF you adjust too tightly, you can hear a whirring sound.. but with the other clatters and clanks in the motor, its not obvious.. if you stay within a turn of the factory set, things are nice and quiet.
If you can change the air filter, you can swap the tensioner, just take every precaution with the chain, and DO NOT try to swap it out without keeping it from moving.
Oh, last thing I did was to put a white line with a paint marker down from the tip of the bolt, over the nut and right onto the tensioner so a quick peek can ensure its not wiggling out.
last, last thing. adjustment can be done without pulling the tank, you can access it all through the frame and the space between the frame and tank
