CCT replacement manual or auto (yamaha)

bimota

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Hi guys,

just after 26000 miles going to do the valce clearance service and i know through here people recommend while its open change the CCT, i have a 2013 gen 1 bike.

So my mechanic who is a really good tech said lets put a manual one in uesed the APE ones from the USA on R1'S and there really good never had to re-adjust one,
so can i ask how many of you that have done this used the standard yamaha one, or went with a manual one. its not a money thing as in the UK i can get a yamaha one for around £200 and a APE manual one for about £100.

can,t make my mid up whitch way to go.

rob
 

tallpaul

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Whitworth, Rochdale, UK
12k, so not fitting for a while yet. I only changed the plugs because I'd read it was a PITA and I wanted to see if there was any of the reported corrosion in there. There wasn't. In all honesty I'm not looking forward to the valve clearance check at all. There is very little room to see anything, let alone get your hands in to work. Another inmate said they thought taking out the engine would be easier. I think I'm inclined to agree!
 

bimota

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mines on 22000 got a guy ready to do it when needed but he wants me to fit a APE manual and ke know his stuff but i can,t make my mind up

rob
 

okiesaki

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I replaced mine with a graves and found my 2013 already had the later gen 2 tensioner installed from the factory. I have a 2013 I bought new. Check the p/n before you remove it unless you just want a manual cct. I now have a perfectly good oem gen 2 tensioner with just 12k on it just sitting in the tool box.
 
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~TABASCO~

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I’ve written several post about my experiences. I personally went manual with a Graves.
 

SilverBullet

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...So my mechanic who is a really good tech said lets put a manual one ...

...and there really good never had to re-adjust one,...
If your mechanic really said this he is not the good tech you believe. Adjustment is periodically required.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
 

bimota

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so a manual one for argument sake may need adjusting every may be 20000 miles after fitting i can live with that cheers silverbullet
 

~TABASCO~

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And to add with my experience, I see 20-25K (neighborhood). And when I go to adjust them I normally end up tightening them up "about" 1/16th of a turn. I really take my time to get it the best I possibly can. I mark where I start and where I end, Etc, etc. It ends up being adjusted very little.
(this might not apply to all people / bikes, this is just my experience installing a ton of them and adjusting probably 50+ over the years)
 

tntmo

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I used a manual one, I think it was PSR? Easy install. I installed it on the first valve adjustment and am getting close to the second.

If you've done a shim under bucket valve adjustment prior to this, you've got nothing to worry about. Yeah, it's a bit of a tight fit but most bikes are these days. The worst part is the markings on the sprockets, but you can make your own on the back side of it and never worry about it anymore. There's no way removing the engine is easier!
 

Boris

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I have a 13 Gen 1 bike and had the CCT upgraded at around 13-14 thousand miles , mainly for peace of mind as I was setting off on a long trip and I knew it was a potential weak point. Something less to worry about.

I went for the standard Yamaha part, which I believe was the 3rd version of the revised part. I won't think about it again now until about 50-60k miles.

You can tell if yours is the first version by shining a torch under the frame rail and looking at the numbers/letters stamped on the unit . 23p is the original CCT, 2BS would be the second or third version.

I'd happily fit a manual CCT next time round, factory part was convenient when I needed it done.
 

Paul466

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Another satisfied customer with Graves manual adjuster here. My’13 started rattling on startup at around 28K. Went with the Graves unit mainly do to oil passage hole. Don’t have any proof that the oil passage affects anything but figured Graves put that there for a reason.
 
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