Cam Chain Slap

[tebanks352]

Hello, I recently purchased a 2012 Super Tenere 1200 and took it into my local Yamaha dealer for safety check and tune-up. One of my concerns is a intermittent slapping sound in the front of the bike when I go over 55. The dealer said it was the cam-chain slapping and nothing that needed to be addressed immediately. Have any of you had this issue? I realize this will need to be addressed but am I causing more damage by not addressing it right now? Thank you.

 

[Nikolajsen]

Your generation (gen 1 from 2010-2013), have a known issue with the CCT.
Unless it already have been changed to newer or manual type.
Advice is to get is done/checked ASAP. It is possible that the cam chain can "jump a tooth or 2"

But not sure this is the reason, because it normaly "rattles" more when start up, and not a intermittent slappin at a specific speed

 

[gunslinger_006]

Do not ride that bike again until that is addressed.

If the chain skips ONE tooth, its the engine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[OldRider]

Find another dealer too.

 

[Boris]

OP, not sure how much you know, so apologies if stating the obvious. CCT (cam chain tensioner) are known to fail on Gen1 bikes, but usually after quite a few miles, 40K and above if my memory serves me right. Early signs are an obvious rattle at cold start up, that usually quietens down after a couple of seconds. Early CCTs were updated and many of us have replaced with the newer version, or an after market manual tensioner. Both are fine to use.

Early CCTs were stamped with 23P, updated versions with 2BS. Both codes clearly visible by shining a torch on the visible side of the CCT. Note, no parts need removing to view this.

 

[tebanks352]

Thank you all for your rely's.

 

[tebanks352]

OP, not sure how much you know, so apologies if stating the obvious. CCT (cam chain tensioner) are known to fail on Gen1 bikes, but usually after quite a few miles, 40K and above if my memory serves me right. Early signs are an obvious rattle at cold start up, that usually quietens down after a couple of seconds. Early CCTs were updated and many of us have replaced with the newer version, or an after market manual tensioner. Both are fine to use.

Early CCTs were stamped with 23P, updated versions with 2BS. Both codes clearly visible by shining a torch on the visible side of the CCT. Note, no parts need removing to view this.

Unfortunately I know very little. I am assuming I can find the CCT on the right side of the motorcycle just under the tank. Picture attached. Assuming its not a difficult task to replace. It looks like a fairly simple part to get access too..? To access the CCT would I have to (1) Raise the tank? (2) Open access area to line up the timing marks. (3) Then replace old CCT with new CCT and adjust tension. Is that more or less the jist?

I included a link to a video of what the engine sounds like on initial start up. ( https://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?media/cct-video-mp4.641/ ) To me it sounds fine, but that what I have always heard. The sound I hear comes at 55 to 60 mph. It sounds almost like playing cards hit spokes on a bicycle. Just a little more muted. I initially thought there was some kind of plastic tag that was loose and slapping against the front of the engine. Also you can tell from the beginning of the video that the engine does not start initially the dealer said it needs a new Starter Relay...? I am assuming that's correct, Thank you and any advice would be helpful.

CCT Video.mp4

Initial Startup and engine running

www.yamahasupertenere.com

 

[gv550]

That engine does not sound good, I'd stop riding it until the problem is found and repaired. CCT is the obvious place to start since it is a known issue. That is the CCT in your photo, what numbers/digits does it say on the end? There are several threads and videos about replacing it, just search the forum.

 

[tebanks352]

That engine does not sound good, I'd stop riding it until the problem is found and repaired. CCT is the obvious place to start since it is a known issue. That is the CCT in your photo, what numbers/digits does it say on the end? There are several threads and videos about replacing it, just search the forum.

Top numbers - 11 02 15
Bottom - 23P

 

[gunslinger_006]

Every gen 1 has to have this particular part replaced. Mine is going in for valves and the cct at the end of next season.

The general advice is to get a manual cct from graves and periodically adjust it. You need to know what you are doing or you can stretch your chain.

The alternative is the updated part from yamaha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jrusell]

Unfortunately I know very little. I am assuming I can find the CCT on the right side of the motorcycle just under the tank. Picture attached. Assuming its not a difficult task to replace. It looks like a fairly simple part to get access too..? To access the CCT would I have to (1) Raise the tank? (2) Open access area to line up the timing marks. (3) Then replace old CCT with new CCT and adjust tension. Is that more or less the jist?

I included a link to a video of what the engine sounds like on initial start up. ( https://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?media/cct-video-mp4.641/ ) To me it sounds fine, but that what I have always heard. The sound I hear comes at 55 to 60 mph. It sounds almost like playing cards hit spokes on a bicycle. Just a little more muted. I initially thought there was some kind of plastic tag that was loose and slapping against the front of the engine. Also you can tell from the beginning of the video that the engine does not start initially the dealer said it needs a new Starter Relay...? I am assuming that's correct, Thank you and any advice would be helpful.

CCT Video.mp4

Initial Startup and engine running

www.yamahasupertenere.com

I find it difficult to tell from your video because you are moving the camera and the sound is changing because of this. Here is a link a short clip on Facebook where you can hear the typical startup rattle. You will notice ticking and then it goes away after a few seconds. This is the normal rattle associated with 1st gen tensioners.

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

From what I hear in your clip it sounds fine at startup.

The S10 engine is very noisy. Almost KLR noisy. A skid plate will amplify the noise and make you think there are issues when there are not. If you want to listen for a cam chain rattle listen on the right side and don't go down near the skid plate.

If you decide to replace the tensioner read as many threads as you can. If you want to go with a 2nd gen tensioner you will need to pull the valve cover and clutch cover and zip tie the chain to the cams. Manual tensioner can be done with just the clutch cover removed but there are still risks of chain slipping on the sprockets. Read up on it and make sure you know how to do it. If they slip you run a huge risk of bending valves and having a major expense.

It is not a simple as getting the timing marks right and then pulling out the old tensioner. Do that and your chain will skip and damage may result.

 

[Boris]

OP, your photo correctly identifies the CCT and the 23P confirms yours is an early, Gen1 tensioner and really could do with updating with the modified part or a manual tensioner. The valve cover doesn’t need to be removed for either, but can be if you choose to. Your “how to” description above is basically correct, however as said, read up as much as you can. One mistake and it all becomes a real PITA and potentially very expensive.

I’m not mechanically knowledgeable enough on this particular process to advise, but I understand it to be a fairly simple and straightforward process, maybe someone else can chime in.

 

[Zepfan]

Do not ride that bike again until that is addressed.

If the chain skips ONE tooth, its the engine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was lucky and it didn’t wreck the motor. Just re alignment and new cct

 

[Zepfan]

OP, your photo correctly identifies the CCT and the 23P confirms yours is an early, Gen1 tensioner and really could do with updating with the modified part or a manual tensioner. The valve cover doesn’t need to be removed for either, but can be if you choose to. Your “how to” description above is basically correct, however as said, read up as much as you can. One mistake and it all becomes a real PITA and potentially very expensive.

I’m not mechanically knowledgeable enough on this particular process to advise, but I understand it to be a fairly simple and straightforward process, maybe someone else can chime in.

Pretty easy to do yourself