Brake pad mileage

Wheelin

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Aug 13, 2017
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261
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Southern CA
It's not the miles, it's how the bike is being ridden. Shorter, more sporty rides wear pads faster. Commuting a little slower, touring even more slowly than that. As a guy that goes places on the bike, I go farther w/o touching the brakes than the commuter or short ride riders. My pads last a very long time. Add to that, riding The Pace, and I'm just not on the brakes unless I'm stopping or in traffic. I don't brake in, throttle out of corners.
The conclusion that I’m drawing from this string is that I spent too much time behind farmers riding tractors when I lived in Kansas. ;)
 

Wheelin

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Southern CA
As long as you're following the right procedure to measure them , don't be nervous about the results. Coincidentally, I was just measuring mine a couple days ago.
Maybe you can educate me a little here? What is the “right procedure” for measuring the pads? I figured you use something as simple as a ruler. Heck, I thought even a tire tread gauge would be effective enough to give the observer of general idea as to the general thickness of the pads. Would love to hear your thoughts on this, and others.
 

RCinNC

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I use a vernier micrometer. If you aren't familiar, it's a measuring tool that looks kind of like a C-clamp. Mine was an inexpensive version I got from Harbor Freight for something like twenty bucks. I wouldn't use it to measure the O-rings on a solid rocket booster, but it's plenty good for measuring rotors, brake pads, etc. Mine measures up to ten thousandths of an inch, but measuring in the hundredths of an inch is fine for pads.

The small one on the left is the one I have:



They apparently don't sell the small one individually any more. The set of three of them costs $39.99. They also make a digital version (much easier to read) for $35.99.

You can also use a measuring caliper. They look like a ruler with jaws on them. Mine is digital, and will read in millimeters, english fractions, and english decimals. Mine was also a Harbor Freight special, and cost $19.99.

This is my digital caliper:



To measure the pad thickness, I first measure the thickness of the backing plate. Then I measure the thickness of the entire pad (backing plate and the pad material). Usually I'll measure the entire brake pad at four different spots. After I measure the total thickness, I subtract the thickness of the backing material from the total measurement and that's the thickness of the braking material itself. That measurement of just the braking material thickness is what's specified in the service manual. Braking material thickness is 5.8 when brand new, and minimum thickness is .8.

There's nothing wrong with using a ruler. You could even use a nut and a bolt; just screw the bolt through the nut until the nut is resting on the pad material and the screw is touching the backing plate, and then measure the distance on the screw between the nut and the backing plate. I use the micrometer because I have one, and they come in handy for other stuff I do, but they aren't necessary for something this simple.
 

Cycledude

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Rib lake wi
How long have you had the digital meter ? I’ve had two of them and unfortunately neither one lasted very long, they were nice when they worked .
I’ve never used a gauge for brake pads, just a good look at the pads is all I need.
 

RCinNC

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How long have you had the digital meter ? I’ve had two of them and unfortunately neither one lasted very long, they were nice when they worked .
I’ve never used a gauge for brake pads, just a good look at the pads is all I need.
Mine is at least three years old, and it gets used a lot. For me, it was twenty bucks well spent. I have a brass non-digital one too, but I like the convenience of being able to convert to millimeters/inches without doing any math.

As far as measuring pads, whatever works for you is what works. I'm not really an "eyeball it" sort of guy, and since I do a fair bit of fabricating of parts that have to fit together, whipping out a micrometer or caliper to measure something is second nature.
 

RCinNC

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I have tool envy. In NC Gastonia. How are you set for tire change equipment.
Basic stuff...tire spoons, rim protectors, a mallet driven bead breaker, a fancy-schmancy ratchet strap I made to compress tires with stubborn beads that won't seat, an ancient 12 Volt air compressor, and a big old jug of RuGlyde. I've never used a tire changing stand like the HF one, and never found the need.

I'm a bit of a ride from you (about two hours east), but if you ever want to combine a road trip with a tire change, come on over. I've mounted 11 rears and 8 fronts on Big Blue, so by now I've worked out most of the bugs in the process.
 

Cycledude

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Rib lake wi
I have tool envy. In NC Gastonia. How are you set for tire change equipment.
I made my own tire changer about 15 years ago but the only tires I’ve changed with it is Goldwing tires and I have done way over 200 of those.
My changer might work for Tenere tires but I’ve never tried, so far I’ve just hauled those wheels to my local Honda-Yamaha dealer and pay the $20 per wheel to have the tires changed, they usually do them rite away or if I have to wait a couple hours that’s no problem usually plenty of other stuff to do while I’m in town.
I also own a very nice set of tire spoons, one of my brother has borrowed them a few times to use on his KLR, he says they work great but I’ve never tried them myself except for on some lawn mower tires.
 
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Wheelin

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Aug 13, 2017
Messages
261
Location
Southern CA
I use a vernier micrometer. If you aren't familiar, it's a measuring tool that looks kind of like a C-clamp. Mine was an inexpensive version I got from Harbor Freight for something like twenty bucks. I wouldn't use it to measure the O-rings on a solid rocket booster, but it's plenty good for measuring rotors, brake pads, etc. Mine measures up to ten thousandths of an inch, but measuring in the hundredths of an inch is fine for pads.

The small one on the left is the one I have:



They apparently don't sell the small one individually any more. The set of three of them costs $39.99. They also make a digital version (much easier to read) for $35.99.

You can also use a measuring caliper. They look like a ruler with jaws on them. Mine is digital, and will read in millimeters, english fractions, and english decimals. Mine was also a Harbor Freight special, and cost $19.99.

This is my digital caliper:



To measure the pad thickness, I first measure the thickness of the backing plate. Then I measure the thickness of the entire pad (backing plate and the pad material). Usually I'll measure the entire brake pad at four different spots. After I measure the total thickness, I subtract the thickness of the backing material from the total measurement and that's the thickness of the braking material itself. That measurement of just the braking material thickness is what's specified in the service manual. Braking material thickness is 5.8 when brand new, and minimum thickness is .8.

There's nothing wrong with using a ruler. You could even use a nut and a bolt; just screw the bolt through the nut until the nut is resting on the pad material and the screw is touching the backing plate, and then measure the distance on the screw between the nut and the backing plate. I use the micrometer because I have one, and they come in handy for other stuff I do, but they aren't necessary for something this simple.
I'm a gadget geek as well. I have a fancy schmancy digital micrometer that I thought I was going to use back when I was studying to be a piano technician, but never used it. Frankly, unless I find a good video on how to use the thing, it'll probably continue to languish in my toolbox. As you've indicated, low technology tools (i.e. rulers, tire tread gauges, etc.) are likely good enough to determine if a change is needed. And, once one becomes experienced enough, using the eyes will eventually work just as well! :cool:
 

Wheelin

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Southern CA
I made my own tire changer about 15 years ago but the only tires I’ve changed with it is Goldwing tires and I have done way over 200 of those.
My changer might work for Tenere tires but I’ve never tried, so far I’ve just hauled those wheels to my local Honda-Yamaha dealer and pay the $20 per wheel to have the tires changed, they usually do them rite away or if I have to wait a couple hours that’s no problem usually plenty of other stuff to do while I’m in town.
I also own a very nice set of tire spoons, one of my brother has borrowed them a few times to use on his KLR, he says they work great but I’ve never tried them myself except for on some lawn mower tires.
I've constructed my own tire changer based upon some of the commercial portable stuff that I see out there. Still need to work on my technique, though.
 

DarkLeftArm

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Mar 17, 2013
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Tucson, Arizona
[QUOTE=
I’m a relative baby in the world of motorcyclIng, not getting started until well in the middle age. While I have taken a safety course, I’ve never gone to the track to better my riding skills. Number one, I’m afraid I’ll crash my bike and run my investment, and two) taking advanced riding skills might embolden me to do more stupid things

I was just lurking here, trying to decide what brand brake pads to buy when I found this thread, then I saw your statement about bettering your skills.
I, too, was a baby to motorcycling when I started at 48 about 10 years ago. I took the MSF course to get my ticket, and rode for a few years before taking the advanced class where you supply your own bike. It was not a track day, and nobody crashed. It was in a parking lot, and it was VERY informative and well worth the time and money. The way I heard it, they wanted me before I developed too many bad habits. I want to take more classes. Maybe one of those off-road specific ones.

And to think I used to HATE school. lol
 

Wheelin

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Aug 13, 2017
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Southern CA
I may eventually take the advanced class. At least it's not on the track where everyone is going 100+ mph and leaning until their footpegs drag the ground.:eek:
 

cyclemike4

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Sep 18, 2016
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ky
My first two sets of rear pads only lasted about 7000 miles. Very fast wear. No dragging the brake and the rear system was working properly. As a matter of fact I rarely ever use the rear brake out on the street. I know these are linked and they operate to some extent when I apply the fronts though. Any way after a couple sets of OEM pads I found myself short on pad and I had a new set at the house that fit my 2005 JFR. I put them on and now I get decent mileage out of the rear pads. I would have to check my records for the exact mileage but just guessing I went from 7000 miles a set on the rear to about 20000 miles or so. The fronts I really don't have any issues with.
 

Wheelin

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Aug 13, 2017
Messages
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Location
Southern CA
My first two sets of rear pads only lasted about 7000 miles. Very fast wear. No dragging the brake and the rear system was working properly. As a matter of fact I rarely ever use the rear brake out on the street. I know these are linked and they operate to some extent when I apply the fronts though. Any way after a couple sets of OEM pads I found myself short on pad and I had a new set at the house that fit my 2005 JFR. I put them on and now I get decent mileage out of the rear pads. I would have to check my records for the exact mileage but just guessing I went from 7000 miles a set on the rear to about 20000 miles or so. The fronts I really don't have any issues with.
That's weird about the short wear life on the rear pads. Did you ever figure out what caused the issue? Because my rear pads have 27000+ pads on them and have plenty of life left.
 
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cyclemike4

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Sep 18, 2016
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815
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ky
Not sure what caused the pads to wear so fast. may have been grit on the roads. I used to have lots of brake, chain, and seal issues on my old FJ 1200 because I ride all winter and they would put burnt cinders on the roads from whiskey barrels when it was slick. Talk about great traction on slick roads but it is terrible for anything that they stick to or get in. Also cars didn't run that off the roads. It would hang around all summer getting into things.
 

Xclimation

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Aug 17, 2016
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Ft. Worth, Texas
Things to consider.....we all ride differently some use more engine braking. How much the rider weighs..how much cargo. Tires and tire pressure. Heat. etc. If one doesn't weigh a lot. They either use a lot of engine braking or they slow down early by coasting, do not weigh a lot and not carry a lot of things. Maybe even panniers/top case and big windshield to give wind resistance that will slow you down quicker...then your brakes will last a looooong time.
 

Wheelin

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Aug 13, 2017
Messages
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Location
Southern CA
Things to consider.....we all ride differently some use more engine braking. How much the rider weighs..how much cargo. Tires and tire pressure. Heat. etc. If one doesn't weigh a lot. They either use a lot of engine braking or they slow down early by coasting, do not weigh a lot and not carry a lot of things. Maybe even panniers/top case and big windshield to give wind resistance that will slow you down quicker...then your brakes will last a looooong time.
I’ve got a top case and I also use a lot of engine braking, so you probably have a good point here.
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
I just did a full teardown and inspection of both front and rear brakes today. As soon as I have the wheels off I'll measure the runout of the rotors at the same time I balance and true my wheels with the new tire change.

Now I'm beginning to understand why the rotors and pads wear uneven for some and not others. I have seen numerous pictures and videos of what the average owner does when changing pads. Pull the old ones out and pop the new ones in. To me that is a complete and uttermost disregard for ones safety. Not to mention just poor attitude and zero pride in properly maintaining the machine.

I disassemble, lube, bleed out all the air, and check my brakes from brand new after taking delivery on every new bike I own. I take a soft brush and brake cleaner to them at each wash. As seen below a little effort goes a long way in keeping everything working proper. And zero odd wear.

I do not agree with Yamaha's recommended brake pad wear limit. I am not an engineer but would feel very uncomfortable running the rear pads down to .8mm and the fronts to .5mm. If I ride the same way as I have been, the rear pads will indeed wear out before the front.

FWIW, the OEM front rotors are the "fake floating discs". It's a fixed disc design. They look cool but the bobbins are mounted solid. Yamaha had to find a way to cut corners to keep the price point on the bike down. At 120 bucks per front disc it's a great bargain.

When these rotors wear out I will be going with the Galfer full floating design.



5578 miles

Rear brakes disassemble, measure, inspect, clean, lube sliders/boots
Outside pad upper center 4.53mm
Inside pad upper center 4.45mm
Rotor thickness 4.97mm

Rear pads new 5.8mm
Rear pad wear limit .8mm
Rear rotor wear limit 4.5mm
Rear rotor runout limit .15mm

Front brakes disassemble, measure, inspect, clean, smooth out pins

RF outside pad 4.43mm
RF inside pad 4.30mm
LF outside pad 4.47mm
LF inside pad 4.30mm
RF outside pad 4.43mm
RF inside pad 4.30mm
Left rotor 4.46mm
Right rotor 4.43mm

Front pads new 4.5mm
Front pad wear limit .5mm
Front rotor wear limit 4mm
Front rotor runout limit .10m
 
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