Bleeding the clutch.

[limey]

I’ve searched forum with no luck.I’ve never had a problem bleeding the clutch but this time I just can’t get the bloody air out of the system. And the reason for bleeding was the clutch grabbing at a stop. The bike is at 167,000km .
Thanks.

 

[2daMax]

Could you describe the procedure you use? Perhaps someone could point out a missed step or something.

 

[limey]

Could you describe the procedure you use? Perhaps someone could point out a missed step or something.

Same way I’ve always done it. Tube on bleeder , pull on clutch lever , open bleeder then close bleeder, then release clutch lever. And repeat the proses.

 

[2daMax]

I think I know where it went wrong. The other end of the tube has to be submerged into brake fluid to keep the pressure constant else there will be back flow of air into the nipple.

Google search "one man brake bleed". A Soda bottle is used to contain the tube and fluid. With this method, there is no need to loosen or lock the nipple. Just pull the lever to move out the fluid.

 

[Juan]

There should not be air flowing back through the bleeding nipple if the bleeder is closed before the clutch lever is released. However, it's good practice to submerge the end of the tube in brake fluid just in case you accidentally release the clutch lever before closing the bleeder.

I would continue bleeding; the air should come out at some point.

 

[Dogdaze]

Be very careful as the fluid reservoir is tiny and soon runs dry and suck air, also if you pull the lever with cap off it will shoot fluid out of the reservoir. It does take a while, but also tap the line occasionally to remove trapped air bubbles, some have cracked the banjo bolt to remove air as that is also a place air gets trapped. Also, as others have mentioned, tube at bleed end immersed in fluid as a precautionary measure.

 

[Squibb]

I am just wondering how the clutch issue occurred (suddenly, or progressively) - it's done a few Kms, so I am wondering are the Master seals good, is the slave seal leaking, are the clutch lines still good (no tiny pinholes). Some reckon the top banjo can trap air; some try reverse bleeding, pumping fluid up through the slave bleed; some swear by a vacuum bleed.

If you can't clear it, your dealer can do a vac bleed pretty cheap icon.

 

[limey]

I am just wondering how the clutch issue occurred (suddenly, or progressively) - it's done a few Kms, so I am wondering are the Master seals good, is the slave seal leaking, are the clutch lines still good (no tiny pinholes). Some reckon the top banjo can trap air; some try reverse bleeding, pumping fluid up through the slave bleed; some swear by a vacuum bleed.

If you can't clear it, your dealer can do a vac bleed pretty cheap icon.

I have a vacuum bleed and it’s a pain because of the small reservoir. If there was pin holes I believe I would be losing oil. I’ve bled the clutch a lot over the years and this is a first with so much air in the system and it’s a small system at that. Wondering if it’s possible for the slave to suck in air?

 

[limey]

I think I know where it went wrong. The other end of the tube has to be submerged into brake fluid to keep the pressure constant else there will be back flow of air into the nipple.

Google search "one man brake bleed". A Soda bottle is used to contain the tube and fluid. With this method, there is no need to loosen or lock the nipple. Just pull the lever to move out the fluid.

No that’s not the problem as the lever is depressed when I close the bleeder.

 

[Dogdaze]

The slave cylinder seals can sometimes 'invert' themselves, have an inpection at those, best way for me was to pull the lever in, fill the reservoir and vacuum bleed from the mastercylinder, slowly. I've used up to 300 ml once, long and tedious. But will will clear.

 

[eemsreno]

Sounds to me it's time to rebuild the slave cylinder.

 

[Basilton]

I’ve searched forum with no luck.I’ve never had a problem bleeding the clutch but this time I just can’t get the bloody air out of the system. And the reason for bleeding was the clutch grabbing at a stop. The bike is at 167,000km .
Thanks.

Mine is also not fully disengaging at a stop, its a pain shifting down gears as I slow down too.
Im going to have a crack at bleeding the clutch myself and ill let you know how it goes

 

[limey]

i ended up replacing the slave cylinder as eemsreno suggested.

 

[bnschroder]

If anybody hasn't bled the clutch and is considering doing it themselves, I can only recommend the vacuum method. I never have any issues with air in the system. But it does help having a second person continuously feeding the Master Cylinder to avoid it running dry.

 

[patrickg450]

i ended up replacing the slave cylinder as eemsreno suggested.

It took you this long to rebuild/replace the master cylinder?



















note to self: never let Paul help with my bike maintenance

 

[Basilton]

i ended up replacing the slave cylinder as eemsreno suggested.

Well, I have bled the clutch twice now and it still drags. especially while slowing down to stop at the lights, it doesn't slip into gear nicely and you can feel it trying to accelerate while blipping the throttle to shift down.
I will be changing the engine oil to Motul 15w50 (I have had good results with other bikes using this) this weekend and that may help.
failing that, I will be replacing all the clutch plates along with other motor work when those parts arrive

 

[limey]

Well, I have bled the clutch twice now and it still drags. especially while slowing down to stop at the lights, it doesn't slip into gear nicely and you can feel it trying to accelerate while blipping the throttle to shift down.
I will be changing the engine oil to Motul 15w50 (I have had good results with other bikes using this) this weekend and that may help.
failing that, I will be replacing all the clutch plates along with other motor work when those parts arrive

Why woul you replace the clutch plates? I’m still on the original with 194,000 kilometres,

 

[yoyo]

Why woul you replace the clutch plates? I’m still on the original with 194,000 kilometres,

I agree, I be looking more to the hydraulic side first. If it was slipping I'd look at the plates.

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