Bargain top box - Harbor Freight Apache 3800

[sgio]

I have my first camping trip coming up on my ST10 and have been working out my packing strategy. I plan to put a couple dry bags, strapped to the top of my Yamaha saddle bags. This will leave me with no easy access, water proof storage. I have a top box on my Honda, and have always liked the utility of it. The Yamaha saddle bags limit the width of a top box to just over 16" (if you want to open the saddle bags without removing the top box).
I measured up the Apache cases at Harbor Freight and the 3800 was the right width and it was $45. I bought one and set it on the bike and was pretty happy with the appearance. I ordered $20 of hardware from Amazon and have it bolted on. The saddle bags open fully and just clear the case. I am really happy with it so far. If it holds up, I will likely keep it on the bike all the time.

 

[RCinNC]

I think that, at that price point, they are a really nice case. I was looking at one just the other day in a Harbor Freight, and I was impressed with the construction of those Apache cases. They aren't Pelicans, but they're superior to the Duratool cases I have on my bike right now. If their 4800 case was just a little bit larger, I'd replace my Duratools with them.

 

[Sierra1]

Harbor Freight, in general, has upped their game in just about everything. Quality has increased, but so have the prices.

 

[Check6]

I have my first camping trip coming up on my ST10 and have been working out my packing strategy. I plan to put a couple dry bags, strapped to the top of my Yamaha saddle bags. This will leave me with no easy access, water proof storage. I have a top box on my Honda, and have always liked the utility of it. The Yamaha saddle bags limit the width of a top box to just over 16" (if you want to open the saddle bags without removing the top box).
I measured up the Apache cases at Harbor Freight and the 3800 was the right width and it was $45. I bought one and set it on the bike and was pretty happy with the appearance. I ordered $20 of hardware from Amazon and have it bolted on. The saddle bags open fully and just clear the case. I am really happy with it so far. If it holds up, I will likely keep it on the bike all the time.
View attachment 93813
View attachment 93814

Definitely practical and looks good. What hardware did you use to mount it? TIA

 

[sgio]

I have the standard luggage rack from Yamaha, so if you have something else, it's likely different. There are 3 screws holding the luggage rack on and I removed the two rear ones. These are M8 x 110mm long. These can't be reused as once the case is in place, there isn't enough length to reach the threads. I found some 130mm long on Amazon and that was perfect.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01FYBY4EW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
There is a gap between the case and the rack which I measured to be 0.506", so I found some spacers, also on Amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09DK4WSS7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
For good measure, I placed some rubber washers under the case. They came from this Harbor freight kit.
https://www.harborfreight.com/141-piece-washer-seal-assortment-67552.html
I also added two more screws further back. There are two holes in the luggage rack that I used. These are M8x25mm button head screws with flat washers, lock washers and hex nuts. I had some in the garage, so I didn't have to buy any.
I didn't take photos when did this, but here's the process:
Place the case on the bike and determine where you want it. I had my wife sit on the passenger seat to be sure I was leaving enough room for her. Remove the case and luggage rack. With the case upside down and the luggage rack on top, mark and drill (4) 5/16" holes using the luggage rack as a guide.
Re-install the luggage rack but only using the front stock screw. Make sure the rear holes line up and tighten the front screw. You won't be able to get to that one once the case is in place.
Now comes the fiddly part. Place (2) of the 1/2" spacers on the luggage rack centered on the forward set of holes. Place the stock washers on the new 130mm long screws and insert them through the corresponding holes in the case. Place two rubber washers on the screws on the bottom side and while holding them in place get the case in place the get the screws through the spacers and the threads started. Only give them a couple turns at this point because you still want to move it around.
The rear screws have a flat washer inside the case, a rubber washer under the case and then a flat washer, lock washer and nut on the bottom. Tighten everything up.
I will probably change a couple things to make things easier and stronger. I will probably glue the rubber washers to the case with some silicone. This will make is less fiddly to install. I would like the washers inside the case to be larger, to spread out the load on the case a bit. I am thinking 5/16" fender washers or maybe an aluminum plate that would go under all 4 screws. We will see...

 

[Check6]

I have the standard luggage rack from Yamaha, so if you have something else, it's likely different. There are 3 screws holding the luggage rack on and I removed the two rear ones. These are M8 x 110mm long. These can't be reused as once the case is in place, there isn't enough length to reach the threads. I found some 130mm long on Amazon and that was perfect.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01FYBY4EW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
There is a gap between the case and the rack which I measured to be 0.506", so I found some spacers, also on Amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09DK4WSS7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
For good measure, I placed some rubber washers under the case. They came from this Harbor freight kit.
https://www.harborfreight.com/141-piece-washer-seal-assortment-67552.html
I also added two more screws further back. There are two holes in the luggage rack that I used. These are M8x25mm button head screws with flat washers, lock washers and hex nuts. I had some in the garage, so I didn't have to buy any.
I didn't take photos when did this, but here's the process:
Place the case on the bike and determine where you want it. I had my wife sit on the passenger seat to be sure I was leaving enough room for her. Remove the case and luggage rack. With the case upside down and the luggage rack on top, mark and drill (4) 5/16" holes using the luggage rack as a guide.
Re-install the luggage rack but only using the front stock screw. Make sure the rear holes line up and tighten the front screw. You won't be able to get to that one once the case is in place.
Now comes the fiddly part. Place (2) of the 1/2" spacers on the luggage rack centered on the forward set of holes. Place the stock washers on the new 130mm long screws and insert them through the corresponding holes in the case. Place two rubber washers on the screws on the bottom side and while holding them in place get the case in place the get the screws through the spacers and the threads started. Only give them a couple turns at this point because you still want to move it around.
The rear screws have a flat washer inside the case, a rubber washer under the case and then a flat washer, lock washer and nut on the bottom. Tighten everything up.
I will probably change a couple things to make things easier and stronger. I will probably glue the rubber washers to the case with some silicone. This will make is less fiddly to install. I would like the washers inside the case to be larger, to spread out the load on the case a bit. I am thinking 5/16" fender washers or maybe an aluminum plate that would go under all 4 screws. We will see...
View attachment 93831

View attachment 93832

This is awesome. Thanks again for the reply.

 

[holligl]

The stock rack is pretty weak. It won't take much weight or abuse. I started with a Givi mounted to it and trashed it pretty quick. Just don't carry too much weight in there. If you don't ride rough stuff you may be ok.

 

[kmasa58]

I can concur on the 'strength' of the rear OEM rack. I have the same setup using the HF Pelican box with several sizes. I tipped the bike over trying to get it onto the center stand several weeks ago but instead, i lost balance & leaned the bike over into the grabage can in the garage. The pelican case took the blunt but didn't damage it, but upon close inspection, I found the OEM rack had cracks in several places near the 3 bolts that holds it in place. Luckily, a member on this forum had a spare one off his bike which I was able to acquire.

 

[pvwheeler]

I agree, same story broken rear oem top rack. I replaced it with a piece of plastic cutting board and bolted my Givi mount to that.
The oem top part of the rack must be made from 20 year old Chinese plastic. Very brittle.

 

[aqcon]

I think that, at that price point, they are a really nice case. I was looking at one just the other day in a Harbor Freight, and I was impressed with the construction of those Apache cases. They aren't Pelicans, but they're superior to the Duratool cases I have on my bike right now. If their 4800 case was just a little bit larger, I'd replace my Duratools with them.

What racks are you using with the duratools?
I’m with you on the HF 4800… I plan on running three, but need a reasonably priced rack to build upon.

 

[aqcon]

I have my first camping trip coming up on my ST10 and have been working out my packing strategy. I plan to put a couple dry bags, strapped to the top of my Yamaha saddle bags. This will leave me with no easy access, water proof storage. I have a top box on my Honda, and have always liked the utility of it. The Yamaha saddle bags limit the width of a top box to just over 16" (if you want to open the saddle bags without removing the top box).
I measured up the Apache cases at Harbor Freight and the 3800 was the right width and it was $45. I bought one and set it on the bike and was pretty happy with the appearance. I ordered $20 of hardware from Amazon and have it bolted on. The saddle bags open fully and just clear the case. I am really happy with it so far. If it holds up, I will likely keep it on the bike all the time.
View attachment 93813
View attachment 93814

I just picked up the 4800 to run as a lonely top case, but plan on orienting it fore/aft so the seat can support some of the weight (at least until i can get a pillion replacement bracket).

good work.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Found the expensive way that the Harbor Freight case hinges get more brittle in cold weather than the Pelicans. Am going to guess the latches would as well but the case didn't make it that far.

 

[Check6]

Found the expensive way that the Harbor Freight case hinges get more brittle in cold weather than the Pelicans. Am going to guess the latches would as well but the case didn't make it that far.

you can say the same for extreme heat. Bought a couple to stow some extra equipment for a field operation. Secured them to the top of our vehicle only to find to tops completely broken off from bumping around in the desert. Luckily nothing lost. Pelican would be my choice. I saw Caribou has some as well but don’t have any experience with them.

 

[aqcon]

Found the expensive way that the Harbor Freight case hinges get more brittle in cold weather than the Pelicans. Am going to guess the latches would as well but the case didn't make it that far.

Me at the HF check out yesterday: “why would I need a $9 warranty for a plastic box?”
I chose wrong.

 

[mcycle-nut]

I can concur on the 'strength' of the rear OEM rack. I have the same setup using the HF Pelican box with several sizes. I tipped the bike over trying to get it onto the center stand several weeks ago but instead, i lost balance & leaned the bike over into the grabage can in the garage. The pelican case took the blunt but didn't damage it, but upon close inspection, I found the OEM rack had cracks in several places near the 3 bolts that holds it in place. Luckily, a member on this forum had a spare one off his bike which I was able to acquire.

Is that surprising? It's made of plastic, and my '13 even has a sticker saying "maximum weight 5kg, (11lbs)" on it. Something else I found interesting. I went on to Yamaha's website looking at the top box that they want ONE MILLION DOLLARS for, (ok $900 something CDN), and it says not to use it with side bags as overloading may occur. Interesting.

 

[Tenman]

Everybody should know that you get what u pay for at harbor fright

 

[Reno]

My go to rule with harbor freight is, if it has any moving parts I won’t buy it from them. It hasn’t failed me yet.

 

[mcycle-nut]

I agree, same story broken rear oem top rack. I replaced it with a piece of plastic cutting board and bolted my Givi mount to that.
The oem top part of the rack must be made from 20 year old Chinese plastic. Very brittle.

Well, there is a sticker on it which states, "Max. load 11lbs,(5kg)".

 

[pvwheeler]

Well, there is a sticker on it which states, "Max. load 11lbs,(5kg)".

Yes but to be fair I have done that to every other bike I've had without an issue. Ever...
They all have really low ratings

 

[Duken4evr]

Running the same setup on my '14 for the last few years, I put a black cutting board that the wife was tossing out between the HF case and the OEM mount to spread the mounting points out on the case. Used fender washers also.

All this has pretty much crossed the line into "KLR 650 Engineering" territory, but it works great. I don't want to have too big of a box back there given the weak mount. The HF Apache box is great for gloves and other odds and ends.