Automatic cam chain tensioner?

[quepina808]

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[gv550]

What is the part number on the new CCT? There have been a few updates from Yamaha and I would install only the latest version. The CCT is installed compressed then released before starting the engine.

 

[OldRider]

That's the newest version., BUT you can't just remove the old one and put a new one in. If you don't get it done correctly, you could lose the engine. Do a search on here and you can find complete instructions.

 

[Jlq1969]

OldRider,

I will make sure to keep tension on the chain and line up the timing marks before pulling out the old tensioner. My question is do I install the automatic tension in the compressed position, or extend it before install?

Thanks again.

Compressed

 

[EricV]

It gets installed in the compressed position, then there is a procedure to release it once it's in place, BEFORE you fire up the engine!

 

[WJBertrand]

Once you have the new tensioner in place (make sure you’ve tie-wrap the chain to the cam sprockets) you have to tap the chain guide against it causing it to extend, to do that the clutch cover must be removed. I used a blunt drift and tapped it with a plastic mallet. Once you’re sure the tensioner has deployed you can remove the tie-wraps and reinstall the valve and clutch covers.


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[Byron]

I did mine this weekend. I used a large zip tie around the chain but I had a hard time finding the correct adjustment. I went with the Graves manual CCT and it was difficult to find the point it contacted the tensioner. After removing the zip tie, I kept adjusting until the chain had very little movement. Put it all back together, took a deep breath and fired her up. First thing I noticed the startup CC noise was gone and no noise that I can tell from being too tight So, fingers crossed, maybe I got it right.

 

[WJBertrand]

Bryon,

http://www.konepool.demon.nl/xt1200z/SERVICE_MANUAL_XT1200Z.pdf page 5-22 shows the procedure. Does that look like what you did?

I only plan on removing lower cover and the tensioner itself. it says to seat the tensioner to push on the timing chain guide. was hoping I didn't have to remove valve cover for this job.

Thanks,

I don’t think I’d be confident the timing didn’t jump without removing the valve cover. Not only can you check / confirm the timing marks visually, you can MAKE SURE the timing doesn’t jump using tie-wraps.


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[Byron]

Well I didn't remove the valve cover as I didn't think it was needed. Besides removing the cover would be a pain. My method had it installed in about 30 minutes. I did have to remove the rear and right side tank bolts to shift it around some. I didn't do anything with the OEM CCT. I put a big zip tie around the chain after setting TDC. Then removes OEM CCT. Installed new Graves CCT. Adjusted until I thought it touched then another 1/4 turn. Removed the zip tie and adjusted the CCT by moving the chain back and forth so I have very little play. Maybe could move the chain 1/16 - 1/8 if an inch. I don't see how timing could jump doing this method. The rattle at startup has stopped and there doesn't seem to be any whine of a over tight CAM chain. Bike fires right up and sounds good.

 

[RonH]

I did the cam tensioner replacement on my 2012 and all I did was unbolt the old one and slowly pull it off while watching the chain to be sure the chain was not trying to move. Nothing moved, so I was pretty confident everything was fine. Bolted up the new tensioner, unlocked it, and all was well. I suspect this is all luck, and if the engine is in a position that makes the chain try to jump teeth results may vary. I did this before anyone really reported problems and think I got lucky. Don't think I would do it now without more prep after reading some bad stories.

 

[RonH]

The procedure is pretty simple, just place a large screwdriver or the like on the tensioner shoe and slap it with your hand. To do this job of course, you must remove the clutch cover, which is simple, just a number of hex screws hold it. Remove the cover, then you can see the tensioner shoe which is directly actuated by the tensioner itself. The way the tensioner is made is it is fully recessed and held that way with a clip. You whack the shoe, the clip comes loose and allows the tensioner to extend and take up slack, and the design is that the tensioner can't retract from there, so you are then all set. For me it all was so easy it was rediculous, but others have had other experience.
Gasket don't even need replaced on the cover or on the tensioner. I just love this motorcycle!

 

[EricV]

Guys,

The new automatic chain tensioner extended before I installed! I have been trying to get it back in for 3 hours and am about to toss it in the wood. Any ideas? I have tried what the service manual states, but no luck!

Do you have access to a drill press or vise? Use a socket that fits and gently compress and rotate it to get it back in. Don't force it.

 

[EricV]

Eric,

Tried, no luck ordering the manual tensioner today

Bummer. You're not the first to have it come loose before installation. It's universally a pain to get retracted again. If it's not damaged, perhaps asking the local dealer to assist? Even a non-Yamaha one might help if you ask nice.

 

[ballisticexchris]

This is a generic way but pretty much the same procedure with any automatic chain tensioner. I always use a vice with the big bikes and a small ball end hex with the smaller dirt bikes. And yes I would replace the gasket as well. Your choice. Save a few bucks and take a chance of oil spraying out or replace gasket with new.

 

[RonH]

I extended mine on purpose before install because I wanted to verify it worked. It did, but retracting was a real pain, however after you try it a few times using a drill and understand how to do it, it is extremely easy. I can retract and reinstall the clip in a few seconds. Well last time I tried at least. Probably a little out of practice now. Don't give up, just understand how to do it. Takes the right amount of twist speed coupled with the right amount of compress at the same time.