Arrow header vs catless stock exhaust

[Flat lander]

Trying to decide what to do. We are in the middle of a ice storm here in Kansas. Do I buy an Arrow header or take my stock exhaust off cut it open and remove the cat? I have a tig welder and very confident in my ability to do this. Seen a couple of videos on this. My question is what is the difference between the two? I can save around $350 by doing this. Then put that $ towards the reflash that I will probably need.
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

 

[Jlq1969]

I cut off DB killer, and replace the exhaust tailpipe by 1 inch S Steel. I like it....

 

[Davesax36]

Well once you gut the stock going back would be problematic. Getting it to run right without the cat is also problematic. Reflash and piggyback tuners combined it seems are not quite up to the task. Should you proceed I would be very interested in how you fair. This is an upgrade I have been considering for some time.

Not sure why getting it to run without the cat is hard. Anthony seems to have a good flash setup for a header and or can. I'm thinking of decatting and sending my ecu off to him before it warms up.

 

[okiesaki]

I went the arrow header route so I could keep the stock header around just in case things didn't work out. I already had an ECU flash to get rid of restrictions and Yoshi can with no baffle . Ran great with baffle in but popped occasionally with baffle out and I liked it louder so I left baffle out and added a PCFC . Problem solved. I was now ready for a header. Just out of curiosity i ran zero map and the flash alone couldn't control the popping and surging. Fuel management is a must with open header and muffler with no baffle. The only way I will go back to the stock exhaust is if the bike has a"For Sale" sign on it.

 

[okiesaki]

I got the power commander fuel controller and it was only $200. It doesn't build maps like the auto tune but it does allow you to load up to 10 maps and has low/mid and high rpm adjustments. I am using Karsons rocketship map and tweaked my low and mid adjusters up one notch and it is as perfect as I can expect without a dyno and my mpg is still around 42 which is about the same as it was before mods. No pops or surging.Just that damn traction control light flickering to tell me to turn it off and hang on

 

[worncog]

I'm running an Arrow header with stock can. Anthony's flash cleans things up nicely and the bike rips in S Mode. Had a Yoshi, but chose the quieter route with stock can. Adding the header, vice cutting, will allow you to remove and transfer, or sell, later.

Tinnitus sucks, hence my path. YMMV

 

[Mak10]

The stock exhaust/cat is quite bulbous. Does the Arrow tuck up better? I am running an ACD skid plate- would the arrow clear?

 

[worncog]

There is a ton of space in the cat area after the Arrow install. I'm even thinking of relocating the rear bracket to raise the plate up. Or swap in a 12/13 bracket.

 

[Ali Sleiman]

There is a ton of space in the cat area after the Arrow install. I'm even thinking of relocating the rear bracket to raise the plate up. Or swap in a 12/13 bracket.

Relocating what bracket ? Thx.

 

[Mak10]

I think he is talking about the rear ACD skid plate mounting bracket. You could move the skid plate rear up closer to the frame with a shorter bracket and the Arrow header.