2017 ES | 5000mile Service | The ACD Plate workaround

[Rambler]

Following responses to my earlier post on the 5000mile went ahead and did it by myself. For the oil change the ACD plate needed to come off and I enlisted help from a local mechanic friend.

The Workaround:
We got the front ‘stock’ bolts fine. Easy peazy! Then came the center stand bolts. “That’s a b*^th” came the exclamation! “How do people drop the plate down without a lift or hanging the bike on chains”.

He (and I) got under the bike and inspected the plate. Now the ACD rear bolts actually go through a ‘frame’ on the inside. This frame is attached to the main plate by 6 small Hex head screws - unscrew those and the plate drops down, with that ‘support frame’ still in-situ - held in place - by those dreaded center stand bolts.

This seems such an easy option - after all those posts of how difficult taking the rear bolts off. On the face of it - this should what ACD should push as an option to remove plate to complete an oil change!

The oil change went without a hitch. The exiting oil - 4500miles old - looked as it should. 3qt of Yamalube went in. But after a short post oil change light the oil window didn’t show any oil and the red oil can warning came on. Another half qt went in and the oil window now shows oil level at half a window.

The final drive oil change was a cinch. So easy. My mechanic friend saw this and said ‘Are you sure that’s it? There has to be stuff you need to take off!!’

Manual check of the spikes done. Couple on either side of the rear wheel just needed tighten about a quarter turn. And Ping!

Yamalube oils used - now to get it registered on the Yamaha Yamalube page to make sure the Yamalube warranty gets activated.

 

[MFP]

Following responses to my earlier post on the 5000mile went ahead and did it by myself. For the oil change the ACD plate needed to come off and I enlisted help from a local mechanic friend.

The Workaround:
We got the front ‘stock’ bolts fine. Easy peazy! Then came the center stand bolts. “That’s a b*^th” came the exclamation! “How do people drop the plate down without a lift or hanging the bike on chains”.

He (and I) got under the bike and inspected the plate. Now the ACD rear bolts actually go through a ‘frame’ on the inside. This frame is attached to the main plate by 6 small Hex head screws - unscrew those and the plate drops down, with that ‘support frame’ still in-situ - held in place - by those dreaded center stand bolts.

This seems such an easy option - after all those posts of how difficult taking the rear bolts off. On the face of it - this should what ACD should push as an option to remove plate to complete an oil change!

The oil change went without a hitch. The exiting oil - 4500miles old - looked as it should. 3qt of Yamalube went in. But after a short post oil change light the oil window didn’t show any oil and the red oil can warning came on. Another half qt went in and the oil window now shows oil level at half a window.

The final drive oil change was a cinch. So easy. My mechanic friend saw this and said ‘Are you sure that’s it? There has to be stuff you need to take off!!’

Manual check of the spikes done. Couple on either side of the rear wheel just needed tighten about a quarter turn. And Ping!

Yamalube oils used - now to get it registered on the Yamaha Yamalube page to make sure the Yamalube warranty gets activated.

100% agree about the ACD Racing skid plate. The first time I attempted an oil change and I saw that ACD recommended removing the bolts from the center-stand bracket I said there is no way I am messing around with that area.
Like yourself I just loosened the top bolts (locknuts in my case as I have the stud mod) and then the six Allen head bolts towards the bottom rear of the skid plate, dropped the skid plate and all was good to go.

 

[thughes317]

You guys do realize that there are bushings supplied with the ACD plate that replace the original center stand bolts and that the rear ACD mounting bolts go through said bushings, right? To remove the skid plate you simply put the bike up on the center stand, remove the front mounting bolts, and then remove the rear mounting bolts that go through the aforementioned center stand bushings.....no need for lifts, or hanging the bike from overhead, or unbolting the 6 bolts that fasten the plate to the bracket. etc.

 

[airmed]

Yeah, they have bushings, but once you remove the center stand bolts, don't the holes become easily misaligned?

 

[steve68steve]

Yeah, they have bushings, but once you remove the center stand bolts, don't the holes become easily misaligned?

+1.

I don't remember getting / installing any bushings. My memory of is that removing the center stand bolts means there's nothing holding it on. IOW, you CAN'T put the bike on the center stand and remove the bolts - the stand would collapse.
If there are bushings which pass THRU the center stand and frame mount, you'd need much smaller OD bolts to pass thru them - assuming I'm picturing the prior post correctly. I guess the bushing itself would be doing the load-bearing in that case, tho.

Does anyone with bushings have a pic of their install?

 

[airmed]

Yes, I agree with the above assessment.

 

[thughes317]

If there are bushings which pass THRU the center stand and frame mount, you'd need much smaller OD bolts to pass thru them - assuming I'm picturing the prior post correctly. I guess the bushing itself would be doing the load-bearing in that case, tho.

Bingo!

"REAR ST52 BUSHING" https://acdracing.us/content/ACD-Racing-Parts-MTC000205021-Instructions-V02-EN.pdf

Like I said: I put it up on the center stand, remove 2 front bolts and two rear bolts.....skid plate hits the floor.

 

[thughes317]

Yeah, they have bushings, but once you remove the center stand bolts, don't the holes become easily misaligned?

Nope.

 

[ballisticexchris]

I almost got one of those skid plates. I would be really nervous that the oil filter well could take a hit damage the oil filter. The clearance is really tight.

 

[PG Cruiser]

I love my RideOnADV plate.

 

[steve68steve]

Bingo!

"REAR ST52 BUSHING" https://acdracing.us/content/ACD-Racing-Parts-MTC000205021-Instructions-V02-EN.pdf

Like I said: I put it up on the center stand, remove 2 front bolts and two rear bolts.....skid plate hits the floor.

OK, so that hardware was NOT included when I bought my skid plate. That really WOULD work great. I've been using the PITA no bushing method, and it's a PITA.

Edit: would it be easy for you to get a caliper on those bushings to give me length, ID, and OD? Not sure how easy it would be to measure when installed.

 

[MFP]

OK, so that hardware was NOT included when I bought my skid plate. That really WOULD work great. I've been using the PITA no bushing method, and it's a PITA.

Edit: would it be easy for you to get a caliper on those bushings to give me length, ID, and OD? Not sure how easy it would be to measure when installed.

Why not call ACD Racing Parts (in the US) and tell them your situation and see if they could send you a set of the bushings.

 

[thughes317]

would it be easy for you to get a caliper on those bushings to give me length, ID, and OD? Not sure how easy it would be to measure when installed.

Best just to give ACD a shout, they're excellent to work with from what I hear.

That said, pulling the bushing to get measurements would involve going back through the original hell I experienced when installing them....one has to either fight the center stand spring trying to line things up to wrangle the bushings in (not recommended) or remove the center stand spring and re-install spring after the bushing are in (recommended).

R&R the spring is the fastest easiest way to go but you'll want to have the special tool on hand (remember these?):

 

[patrickg450]

I love my RideOnADV plate.

me too

 

[steve68steve]

Best just to give ACD a shout, they're excellent to work with from what I hear.

That said, pulling the bushing to get measurements would involve going back through the original hell I experienced when installing them....one has to either fight the center stand spring trying to line things up to wrangle the bushings in (not recommended) or remove the center stand spring and re-install spring after the bushing are in (recommended).

R&R the spring is the fastest easiest way to go but you'll want to have the special tool on hand (remember these?):

I'd hoped the bushing was accessible just with the bolt out. No worries. I'll try and contact ACD if I remember.... which will be the next time I install the plate.

Just in case it helps someone else out: to stretch/ install my springs, I looped a bowline of paracord over the spring hook, then ran the free end around my back tire, which then becomes a windlass and can put a LOT of controlled pull on the spring with very little effort and one hand. Fiddly, but it worked for me.

 

[trimannn]

I'd hoped the bushing was accessible just with the bolt out. No worries. I'll try and contact ACD if I remember.... which will be the next time I install the plate.

Just in case it helps someone else out: to stretch/ install my springs, I looped a bowline of paracord over the spring hook, then ran the free end around my back tire, which then becomes a windlass and can put a LOT of controlled pull on the spring with very little effort and one hand. Fiddly, but it worked for me.

You ever here from ACD? I have the same problem you do. I emailed em but never heard back.

 

[Don in Lodi]

You guys with missing parts, did you get your plates second hand?

 

[steve68steve]

I got my plate at a m/c show - ACD had a vendor booth.

I've yet to try and call ACD for replacement parts. I expect better luck just ordering parts from Amazon. I haven't bothered to look into what size bushings and bolts to get. It's not a pressing issue because I only install my skid plate for trips planned in advance.

 

[MFP]

You ever here from ACD? I have the same problem you do. I emailed em but never heard back.

It is best to call their US phone number:
(949) 873 3678

 

[vwboomer]

I love my RideOnADV plate.

I like not spending $700 on a skidplate

I have a lift. Clamp the front wheel, drop the plate and go. The bolts aren't really the issue, it's needing a ratchet strap to line it back up again. Even from the first time mounting, the plate didn't line up right.