2014 Tenere 1200 overheating

jerrya

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I dropped my bike on the left side last summer; the fall pushed the fan into the radiator slightly. No big deal, I straightened it using a tire iron and all was good until I rode it his summer. It showed a hot code and I stopped to let it cool off. I took it home and checked it out as follows;
The fuse for the fan was blown. I replaced the fuse and started the engine, letting it idle as I watched the temp guage. The fan stayed off until it got to 220 degrees F; the fan came on ( spinning freely) for about 5 seconds, then the fan stopped. It had blown another fuze. It continued to idle until it reached 240 degrees F, then the hot message showed up on the screen ( I turned it off).
I didn't loose any fluid during that test. I connected the fan wires directly to the fan and it runs freely ( I let it run for 3-4 minutes).
I then checked the thermostat by putting it in a pan of water; as it heated up, the stat opened up at about 160 degrees, then closed when the water cooled down
I pulled the water pump and the impellor spins ( slightly firm to spin). Everything there seems fine.
I replaced the fuse and reassembled everything. Started It up and the fan didn't come on until 220 degrees, then blew another fuse about 5 seconds later. Same as before........
The fan seems fine. The only thing that I can see is the " fan motor relay" must be causing the problem.

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.
 

~TABASCO~

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Just a guess on my part: I would pull the fan out and really inspect it. The shaft might be pushed into the motor housing a bit or 'bent'. When it gets hot it might be heating up (because of a problem that you cant see) and blowing the fuse.

Maybe put the fan out in the sun to heat the motor up like it was next to a hot radiator and then hook it up to power. Make sure you test it with an inline fuse to replicate it blowing the fuse on the bike.


Also comes to mind, im sure you have already eye-balled. Take a look at the fan wires under the tank on that left side. Make sure they are not nicked or or pinched. Maybe with a load it's shorting something. It would be next to where the tank comes down or even the far left side of the TB's. The TB's might be too far away.

Ive seen this motor 'situation' happen before............. Just a fun guess






SIDE NOTE: for anyone that reads this thread. Ive been down this road before on my bike. I fixed the fan, but my MUCH bigger issue was the lower nipple on the radiator I bent to almost a 90* angle. When I fell in the mud it pushed the radiator / fan in board. It almost totally ripped that nipple off. Anyone that has fallen on that left hand side, please take a moment and just eye ball that mount down there. Make sure its not bent or stretched, Etc. In the past I have seen a few bikes that this area was damaged and just weeping. The owner had no idea it has been 'leaking'. FYI
 
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jerrya

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I disconnected the fan wire going to the relay; then I connected the fan directly to the fan wires and let it run for 10 minutes.

It ran just fine ( I don't recall ever hearing the fan coming on before all this happened) my gut feeling is it sounds a little loud, but not much and the motor seems a little hot, but I have nothing to compare it to..............

I believe that the motor is just fine; I think my problem is the fan motor relay.
 

Squibb

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I doubt it's the relay, as it is clearly switching as it should, but it's cheap enough to change.

So, as others have said, I too reckon the fan motor has failed - whatever the reason, it seems it is pulling too much current when under hot load conditions.
 

Don in Lodi

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If you're at a stop light and the fan comes on you will hear it, it's a high speed fan. The relay does not have an amperage draw to blow fuses. It's the start up surge of the fan motor that usually spikes the fuse, the running draw may not be enough draw until the motor gets hot enough. You'd need a different skill set and some specs to determine if the motor has more resistance than it should with an ohm meter, or to test the actual amperage draw with the meter.
 

SkunkWorks

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The radiator-fan motors on these bikes seem fairly fragile.
They are very susceptible to damage when the fan-blade is locked against the radiator and not allowed to spin.
If the fan-motor is receiving power while it is locked in place, it usually burns up the circuits inside.
This happened to mine with the same exact scenario as yours. I ended up having to replace the fan/motor/bracket assembly.
My guess is that yours is now drawing too much current, and blowing the fuse.
 

WJBertrand

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I wonder if there’s a slow blow fuse option? Doesn’t seem to be the start up spike causing the blown fuse since it doesn’t pop until the fan has been running for a bit already. Has anyone tried lubricating the shaft?


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TenereJourneyMan

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I wonder if there’s a slow blow fuse option? Doesn’t seem to be the start up spike causing the blown fuse since it doesn’t pop until the fan has been running for a bit already. Has anyone tried lubricating the shaft?


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“Has anyone tried lubricating the shaft?”
All the time, it increases the quality of the ride ;)
 

MarshMcd650

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Say, has anyone found an aftermarket replacement or reasonable price for this OEM Denso fan/motor? I've burned mine out in the same way with a minor hit. Here in Canada, Yamaha price is $475+tax CDN and I've seen $300 US on line. My limited research tells me that the Denso motor frame with 3 mounting screws is very common, and I'm sure there is something that should fit easily or with some modifications. Marsh
 

Jlq1969

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The issue with the "aftermarket" is that perhaps they can be similar (in shape and color)... but since you don't know the revolutions of the oem's electric motor... so, how do you know that they are the same? and another issue would be that Denso….it is Denso, it is difficult to imitate that quality for a lower price. I would be encouraged to think that, if the motor is really burned out….perhaps it would be a good option to “rewind” it…this can cost up to 20% of the price of a new one….and if the person who does it is good at that job… .it would be better than an aftermarket of dubious origin
In general, the damage in a burnt "new" motor is more on the winding side than on the rotor. In a very used motor, which has had bearing problems, the breakages usually include, apart from the winding, the rotor and the stator and the shafts/bearings… in this case “normally” the repairs do not last long, a new one is better
I would not know how to tell you to look for a repairman near your location…..but you could start with “coil winder”….maybe if you take it you will have an idea
 
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Jlq1969

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The idea of the fuse would be that it burns when energy consumption increases. Perhaps the fan motor is not burnt, perhaps the blow caused the rear part of the motor to press on the rotor, this pressure slows it down, increases consumption, and causes the fuse to burn. As they said in another post, you should test the resistance first (ohm)….if it's ok….then the motor is ok and the problem should be in the casing
 

MarshMcd650

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Thanks Jlq1969 for your thoughts about the blown fan. I will check the motor resistance. The fan was held tight against the rad by the slight bend to the support frame and not able to rotate at all until removed from the support. The motor shaft turns freely though and the motor does not turn with 12 volts applied. I will look into the possibility of repair, but I am not optimistic about that with such a disposal attitude about repairs in general.
Thanks again for responding, Jlq, and to anyone else who may chime in with help to replace or repair this expensive rad fan. Marsh
 

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Say, has anyone found an aftermarket replacement or reasonable price for this OEM Denso fan/motor? I've burned mine out in the same way with a minor hit. Here in Canada, Yamaha price is $475+tax CDN and I've seen $300 US on line. My limited research tells me that the Denso motor frame with 3 mounting screws is very common, and I'm sure there is something that should fit easily or with some modifications. Marsh

I believe this is the same fan that is in the V-Strom 1000.... (I had one in my hand recently)

(Side note: ) it looks to be the same radiator with different tabs..... (not exactly the same, but same sub contractor for the manufactures)

It take a bit of leg work, but you can save a TON of cash by shopping around to motorcycle junk yards. And a little phone work. I bet you can find one for $50 or less. It does take time and work. I believe there is still a place up in or near Michigan that disassembles bikes and sells the parts on line... He now has grown into a 75K - 100K SqFt work space... This guy will have one for sure. There are MANY fan motors out in the world that are cheep, just have to poke around.
 
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Don in Lodi

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Didn't someone find that the R1's fan is a swap? Lot's more R1s out there than Ténéré.
 

kmasa58

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Use the Yamaha part# & check Partzilla.com ... I just bought for bike from them for $180 & it was a genuine Yamaha part that came in factory packaging. At least check them out...they've got LOTS of parts listed.
 

jerrya

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I bought a complete new fan and installed it this morning. the new fan is quieter than the old fan and it spins much faster. However, the fan doesnt come on until 220 degrees then stops when the temp gets to 210 degrees. Pryor to installing the new fan, I checked the thermostat and it opens at 160 degrees.

The fan coming on at 220 degrees seems too hot; yet it consistantly comes on at 220 then shuts off at 210.

What else should I check???
 

SkunkWorks

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I bought a complete new fan and installed it this morning. the new fan is quieter than the old fan and it spins much faster. However, the fan doesnt come on until 220 degrees then stops when the temp gets to 210 degrees. Pryor to installing the new fan, I checked the thermostat and it opens at 160 degrees.

The fan coming on at 220 degrees seems too hot; yet it consistantly comes on at 220 then shuts off at 210.

What else should I check???
Those are normal factory operating temps for the fan. Same temps that mine turns on and off.
You should be good to go!
 
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