Sounds like you have hit all the bases. Only other thing I can think of is did you open the bleeder valve when you pushed the push rod back into the slave cylinder?
14' basket, Barnett spring conversion issues
- Thread starter MNrider
- Start date
Did you get anything figured out yet?
~TABASCO~
RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
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Ive been one of the very first "test" folks to use the Barnett from day one ! It is a great product and is so much stronger than stock. There is no doubt in my mind that it has saved my clutch getting stuck in all the deep silt and sand in Utah. For the folks that know, you get off the road, break the crust and then it sinks to the skid plate.
I give the Barnett pressure plate FIVE stars !
We also continue to answer questions about them. While anyone is in there working, don't forget to change out the push rod / bearing / O-ring. Those parts are about $20 and a wear part. Makes a big difference with clutch performance ! ! !
I give the Barnett pressure plate FIVE stars !
We also continue to answer questions about them. While anyone is in there working, don't forget to change out the push rod / bearing / O-ring. Those parts are about $20 and a wear part. Makes a big difference with clutch performance ! ! !
Any idea why MNrider can't get his to work?
~TABASCO~
RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
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Ill have to go back and read his post or the whole thread... Ill be happy to help if I can. Ive installed MANY !
Thank you
~TABASCO~
RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
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Off the top of my head -
The plates have to be aimed in the correct direction. They need to be "clocked" in the correct direction. Make sure the anti-chatter plates are installed correctly. And what is probably the problem, is the barnet can get hung up on the teeth of one or all the clutch plates. I have had this happen before. It must be worked in to mate with all the plates until its completely flush with the last plate (or first plate depending on ones perspective) The one to the most outer next to the pressure plate. It must be seated snug against this plate even before you install the springs. If that first plate is loose, then the Barnett plate is hung up and the clutch won't work.. So keep working to make it seated.
If the Barnett IS seated next to the first clutch fiber plate and everything looks and feels good before you put the cover back on and then you still have clutch issues then I would suggest that its not the Barnett pressure plate, its an issue with the clutch pack and the installation of those plates. (I'm guessing as I sit here at my desk)
Make sure all the plates are installed just as the manual as instructed, with the letters and numbers aiming out and clocked in the correct position.
Do you have any photos ?
I suggest you also replace 24-25-26.
(Everyone should anytime your in the case) 24 wears a hole in 25 and this effects the clutch feel and performance, very inexpensive to keep your clutch working top-notch
The plates have to be aimed in the correct direction. They need to be "clocked" in the correct direction. Make sure the anti-chatter plates are installed correctly. And what is probably the problem, is the barnet can get hung up on the teeth of one or all the clutch plates. I have had this happen before. It must be worked in to mate with all the plates until its completely flush with the last plate (or first plate depending on ones perspective) The one to the most outer next to the pressure plate. It must be seated snug against this plate even before you install the springs. If that first plate is loose, then the Barnett plate is hung up and the clutch won't work.. So keep working to make it seated.
If the Barnett IS seated next to the first clutch fiber plate and everything looks and feels good before you put the cover back on and then you still have clutch issues then I would suggest that its not the Barnett pressure plate, its an issue with the clutch pack and the installation of those plates. (I'm guessing as I sit here at my desk)
Make sure all the plates are installed just as the manual as instructed, with the letters and numbers aiming out and clocked in the correct position.
Do you have any photos ?
I suggest you also replace 24-25-26.
(Everyone should anytime your in the case) 24 wears a hole in 25 and this effects the clutch feel and performance, very inexpensive to keep your clutch working top-notch
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Here's the part that I don't understand. If he pulls the plunger #25 out, the Barnett pressure plate will bottom out on the last disk.
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Did you ever get this problem figured out??
Stantdm
Active Member
Is that track in Belle Fourche?
EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
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I don't know the weight. Unless you are having someone in the US buy the parts for you and ship to you themselves, most of the parts vendors will calculate shipping before you go to billing. I just did it for an address in Bangkok and it was about $90 USD for the shipping on the clutch driven gear and the nut. That was from www.partshark.com
Thank you......
I don't know what my 14 basket weighs because it's in the engine, but the 13 basket I removed weighs 5 pounds. I think they would be close to the same weight.
Boris
Well-Known Member
Prior to changing my Gen1 basket, I read loads and loads of stuff on the subject and recall seeing somewhere that the Gen2 basket was heavier, I’m sure it was 1lb more.
Good information for me.....Thanks