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Here is the old thread. That poster successfully used a 2017 abs in a 2011. Oops wrong url. Be back in a minute... https://yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?threads/abs-unit.29980

Your description of working vs. not working, and the changes you've made suggest to me that you have a flaky wiring connection somewhere.

I've never had a hard start with my 2012, but the noise on this forum has me carrying a jumper pack. I don't know if it's warranted or not!

If you can't locate the security torx bits, you can always substitute Allen head hardware.

Do you have the kill switch hooked up? The fuel pump doesn't run if the kill switch is in the "don't run" position. I think that also shorts the coils to inhibit any spark. Although it should also inhibit the starter, unless some connections are missing.

That hole is in the head, right? Not the valve cover.

I don't have any problem with the stock headlights on my 2012. Of course, I drive more slowly at night. I do have problems with oncoming traffic with headlights that are too bright!

I recall someone on this forum substituted a weaker throttle return spring. Hang on a sec.... Here it is: https://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?threads/throttle-return-spring-removal-tweak-reinstall-re-done.2920/ Maybe this will help?

It just sounds like a list of popular brands to me.

When I'm asked to misrepresent the value of an item I am selling, I politely decline.

I'm in the "loose grip" camp. In strong winds, I press my knees against the tank to hold on, and have a very loose grip on the handlebars. I found that gripping tightly just couples the upper body movement the wind creates directly to the steering. The bike is pretty stable if you let it run...

I think the ECU Morgan has for sale includes the UK immobilizer capability. I don't know what complications that could present on a US bike.

I found this info on Yamaha part numbers on the cms (parts vendor) site. According to this, the parts should be interchangeable. About Yamaha part numbers Part Number in the format XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX The first three digits are the Model Code (every model in...

If you buy the kit from Flash tune, they provide the stock ECU file that they have extracted from a sample ECU with a matching part number, and an "unrestricted" file that removes the throttle mapped restrictions (this is done by adjusting the throttle map curves). You can start from either of...

Gen 1 ECUs cannot be read without cutting open the ECU to access CPU diagnostic pins. If you don't have a copy of the contents already, you'd have to open it up. Maybe that's what they are talking about? Of course, if they don't already have an analyzed copy of the ECU program, they would be in...

Some years ago, I repaired a friend's ABS on a Mercedes SUV (M class?). The solenoid coils were soldered to a PCB in a silicon encapsulated box, and the solder joints tended to corrode on that model. I dug out enough of the silicon to re-solder the connections, and that fixed the ABS. We figured...

It was a while ago I looked at this stuff. From my notes, this is what I *think* the ECU pins in question do. I could be wrong on some of them 26 pin connector 1 - ECU controlled power to lots of components 2 - Grip warmer option control 3,9 - FWE to +5v to enable Renesas boot mode flash write...

If you are curious, this is what the ECU looks like after you strip the encapsulation crud off. This is an R6 ECU from around 2010(?). Very similar to the S10 ECU. You can see the wires I've soldered to the AUD port for one of the processors on the left side.

Here's my hand scribbled 2012 ECU pin out. I've marked the seven pins that the on-bike Flash Tune harness connects to. Six of those have no connection to the OEM harness. The seventh is spliced into a signal ground in the existing harness. The FT connections are: TXD, RXD (transmit and...

I did extend both the brake and clutch lines. A local Parker Hydraulics store made up new lines for me. The throttle cable was fine as-is.