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Take your time and you'll get through it no problem... I have a shop manual and a shim kit... you are welcome to use both. Mr. BR

No surprise that your local dealers are not familiar with the Super T.... however, once you get in there, it's really just a standard shim-under-bucket arrangement like an FJR and countless other bikes. However, a possible $1K bill is what pushes many of us to just do it ourselves. Mr. BR

Welcome aboard, Another Bay Area person.... all good. Anything under $5K will likely be a Gen1 bike ('12, '13) and there are actually two in FB Market place right now.... both around $4K. One in San Jose and another over in Petaluma.... check'em out! Regards, Mr. BR

oooooh.... sounds interesting!! I'm sure everyone would like some details! This is a very knowledgeable and helpful group (but do use the search function ;)). Welcome aboard! Mr. BR

Try these guys: https://ladlesportadv.com/products/ladlesportadv-chopsticks-spare-xt1200z-spokes Mr. BR

I'm sure Tabasco will chime in as he has much experience with the Graves MCCT.... in the meantime, I put one on my '12 a few months ago because I could NOT get my OEM CCT back together. I bought my Graves unit new but the instructions were not much help. Since I had the clutch cover off...

I spent HOURS going through my shop manual and checking everything I could for my ABS error.... but when I swapped in another pump unit (ebay, 2013 model), I got the same error. What are the chances? I eventually found the 30A fuse was rather loose in its socket and after bending the little...

Just FYI: Here’s the label from a 2013 ABS unit I bought on ebay a few months ago to solve the problem I had with my 2012 bike (ultimately not needed). The PN is close to what is mentioned above but I can confirm that it did work just fine on my 2012. I ultimately re-installed my original pump...

Yes, the u-joint stays attached to the engine output shaft… bolted in place. You’ll have to disassemble the u-joint to remove it. Should be no concern with those splines but you can still clean/lube the splines that connect to the drive shaft. Pictures courtesy of Ebay… always a good source of...

Just took this pic of my '12.... no bolt, no oil...

Sounds normal to me.... and I also have a GEN2 basket on my '12. I just tried your test on my bike.... bike is stone cold, on center-stand, in 1st gear, clutch lever in... and YES, rear wheel was rather difficult to spin (very hard initially but then became a little easier to rotate). That...

I'll try to get a picture sometime..... I don't ride at night much. However, I was on Hwy 1 this morning North of Santa Cruz, CA and it was VERY foggy.. viz down to about 100 yards and I'm glad I had my new LED blazing away for what little traffic there was (6:30 am). The inner LEDs are spot...

You might be right.... about 6.5" from Fender to the light. Light is working good and a test ride (street only) confirmed no issues but it might need to be raised a bit. Regards, Mr. BR

You can get your official Yamaha shop manual here: https://www.yamahapubs.com/ They do come up for Sale on ebay occasionally... Regards, Mr. BR

Problem solved…. Went back and read some of the Amazon reviews and others had same issue as I did. Someone figured out that the switch is good but the text is on the wrong side of the switch body (ie, 180 degrees off). I tried it again with this new info and it now works as expected. Mr. BR

Hey Guys! I’m curious what on/off switch you are using for your light bar? My 12V source is the OEM 3 wire accessory plug near the battery and the “always hot” wire for power and no relay. I have this rocker switch but I’m blowing the fuse repeatedly and the little blue indicator light is ON...

As stated in my previous post, I'm using part of my existing Tourtech bracket to mount this LED and it looks like it should work ok. Next up is the wiring and switch. Regards, Mr. BR

I found the same on my '12 but not nearly as much as the OP. I simply removed the OEM trim pieces and have left them off for now. Some very light sanding and shot of rattle can black paint is my solution for now. ;-) Mr. BR

When I read your post, the first thing I did was go to Ebay and look at Super Tenere cylinders, heads and crankcases for sale. There are clearly 3 holes in the front/center of the head, 1 is for a head bolt and the other 2 are oil drains. Those 2 holes continue through the cylinder and into the...

For the 3 wire Aux plug.... which is fused at 20A on my GEN1 bike, would one really need a relay to power up something like a small 32Watt LED light bar that sits under the headlight? I see the Always-ON 12v wire, the Ground and then the switched 3rd wire... and I have 2 wires coming from the...