Reminder: Bleed your clutch often

yoyo

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If you aren't 100% confident I'd be inclined to read up on the jumper method instead, you can do it in the comfort of your workshop.

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T4ten

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If you aren't 100% confident I'd be inclined to read up on the jumper method instead, you can do it in the comfort of your workshop.

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Certainly a good option. Still intrigued about different noises and whether it's exact same system for front and back wheel...
 

gunslinger_006

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Hopefully not a (too) stupid question. Does it matter which wheel I lock up? Reason I ask is that I am more comfortable locking the rear but note that I get a very different noise from, I presume, the abs depending on which wheel I lock. I assume it's just one system and locking the rear activates 'the' abs but just want to be sure. Many thanks.
I think you need to activate both. This is pretty easy if you have access to a good dirt road, but the factory service manual has a procedure for cycling the abs with a jumper wire.


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Boris

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If you aren't 100% confident I'd be inclined to read up on the jumper method instead, you can do it in the comfort of your workshop.

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Cycledude

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I can share this:



If you need, i can get you detailed specs on the factory slave bleed screw since i have two here and calipers.


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yes speed bleeders make the job a lot easier, have been using them on my Goldwing for many years and plan to get a set for the Tenere as well.
 

bigbob

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Stupid question time. How are the brakes linked? If I only pull the lever is the ABS powering the rear brakes? Then if I press the pedal does the pump stop and the rear reservoir take over?
 

gunslinger_006

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Stupid question time. How are the brakes linked? If I only pull the lever is the ABS powering the rear brakes? Then if I press the pedal does the pump stop and the rear reservoir take over?
I think that is exactly it. I think the abs module handles the linked aspect also. I say this because there was a guy who had a bad seal in his abs pump and it was injecting air into his rear line every time he used the front. If he bled the rear and used the rear only, it was fine until the first time he used the front. The solution was a new abs module which is about $950 from rmatvmc last time i looked.


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Sandford6016

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Hi all, I’ve just changed my brake and clutch fluid. Brakes are all good, abs cycled and everything great the clutch however.... since I’ve changed the fluid, the biting point of the clutch lever is almost right on the handlebar. The fluid reservoir is full... what have I done wrong to cause this and how can I rectify it please? Thanks!
 

gunslinger_006

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Hi all, I’ve just changed my brake and clutch fluid. Brakes are all good, abs cycled and everything great the clutch however.... since I’ve changed the fluid, the biting point of the clutch lever is almost right on the handlebar. The fluid reservoir is full... what have I done wrong to cause this and how can I rectify it please? Thanks!
Sounds like air in the line. My engagement point did not change when i bled mine.


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~TABASCO~

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I will also throw this in this tread that might help some folks out (replacing #2)... I have found over the years that if you own a 2012 / 2013 you might want to consider this faster than someone that has a 2014+. I have also install new #2 with bikes that have 50K/75K+ miles and always makes it work much better. What Ive seen is it looks as if the aluminum shaft starts to wear, then that 'grit' starts to wear on the seals, and then goes down hill. I believe the part is about $20 and worth a change out 'one-day'. This is a part that most people dont even think about, but makes a difference and is just a long term maintenance part to flip out once and awhile.





Screen Shot 2020-11-19 at 10.31.59 AM.png
 
Last edited:

gunslinger_006

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I will also throw this in this tread that might help some folks out (replacing #2)... I have found over the years that if you own a 2012 / 2013 you might want to consider this faster than someone that has a 2014+. I have also install new #2 with bikes that have 50K/75K+ miles and always makes it work much better. What Ive seen is it looks as if the aluminum shaft starts to wear, then that 'grit' starts to wear on the seals, and then goes down hill. I believe the part is about $20 and worth a change out 'one-day'. This is a part that most people dont even think about, but makes a difference and is just a long term maintenance part to flip out once and awhile.





View attachment 73366
Added that to the list for my 25k maintenance. This makes perfect sense.


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bimota

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back to this,

i have a speed bleeder fitted into my clutch slave cylinder, can i ask is this right as its a speed bleeder, do you just open it a 1/4 turn take the cover off the clutch master cylinder then pump slowly and just keep the master cylinder topped up, don,t need to touch the speed bleeder once 1/4 turned open just keep pumping the lever till your done, then close the bleeder put lid back on the master cylinder job done
if yes like this alot

rob
 

bimota

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I can share this:



If you need, i can get you detailed specs on the factory slave bleed screw since i have two here and calipers.


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can i ask the lengh of the SB8125LL over here in the UK don,t see any adverised as a LL

cheers

rob
 

bimota

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I can share this:



If you need, i can get you detailed specs on the factory slave bleed screw since i have two here and calipers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
can i ask, the picture above the right caliper that takes the longer bleeder, that is the front brake side caliper right as you sit on the bike

cheers

rob
 

MattR

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Just tried to fit a SB7100 to the rear caliper of my 2017 bike. The OEM one is longer than the SB7100 and won’t fit. Not sure if this is an issue on later bikes. Has anyone fitted them to a 2017 or later bike? The clutch and left front caliper speed bleeders seem to fit ok.


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bimota

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Just tried to fit a SB7100 to the rear caliper of my 2017 bike. The OEM one is longer than the SB7100 and won’t fit. Not sure if this is an issue on later bikes. Has anyone fitted them to a 2017 or later bike? The clutch and left front caliper speed bleeders seem to fit ok.


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WOW,

hope not a bought a SB7100 as gunslinger said for the rear not fitted any yet as i just got my SB8125LL from the USA.

I OREDERED a SB8125LL for the right front as told
i ordered a SB8125L for the clutch and left front
i ordered a SB7100 for the rear

but as said none fitted yet i have these to go in a gen 1 but don,t know why a gen 2 would be different

lets see if gunslinger-006 has a answer

rob
 

bimota

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matt, that SB7100 you bought its a 1.00 thread can i ask what the total lengh from top to bottom yours is as you know
i ordered one to mine is 30mm

rob
 

bimota

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just looked on speed bleeders webb site, and THE SB7100 if you look come in to lenghs the sb7100s IS 30MM long whitch is what mine is
that i just bought like you i suspected matt.
they also show a sb7100 but thats 35mm long I BET THEN THATS THE ONE WE NEED A 35MM LONG ONE and i bet the sb7100 that are advertised in the uk like the one i bought are 30mm.

even tho its short would it mean it will not work then, as i don,t know where in the uk we,ll get a sb7100 35mm long

rob
 
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