I fabricated a dash infill panel for all my switches

hardpipe

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Dec 2, 2019
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U.S. West Coast
I work with sheet metal and used our shops laser to cut out an infill panel of .080“ aluminum.
I used a self etching primer with engine paint.
the missing switch is now I installed I just don’t have a picture of it

switches are marine grade 7 pin switches on-off-on

heated grips that I wired in series and in parallel For a high low heat, then I have the two other switches for lights, Baja designs squadron pro’s wired as a high low and a generic led spot light Lower on the crash bar that I need to finish wiring but will be on-off-flashing

4557D000-5440-44D4-B059-31A5A980D674.jpeg
 

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swakop_toe

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May 28, 2012
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Cape Town, South Africa
Very neat and clean lines.
Care to share the true scale design that I could trace onto perspex?

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hardpipe

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Dec 2, 2019
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I’ll share the files when I get home later today. I need to make some adjustments to it, I had to file down and cut the back a little bit for a better fit. It was hard to measure everything with the speedo in place. I also had to take a littlebit of material out so I’m not pinching the speedo cable
 

swakop_toe

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May 28, 2012
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Cape Town, South Africa
I’ll share the files when I get home later today. I need to make some adjustments to it, I had to file down and cut the back a little bit for a better fit. It was hard to measure everything with the speedo in place. I also had to take a littlebit of material out so I’m not pinching the speedo cable
Exactly way I begging for a template.
My measuring skills extend as far as my son's 7" ruler and also not keen to remove the clocks.

Thank you for offering to supply the better template bud!

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Mak10

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SE Idaho
Very nice. You gotta watch the center as the frame is right there. Doesn’t leave room for a switch.
 

hardpipe

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Dec 2, 2019
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Here is a picture of the completed image as well as my initial measurements

In cad I changed up some of the measurements, I made the radius wider to help accommodate the forks. I did not leave a space for the speedo wiring. And I had to cut the back of the plate back a bit as well as widen the slot for the frame

The button in line with the frame had very little clearance but from an act of got it just all worked out.

those measurements will get you in the ball park but you will have to adjust it. I will post the cad file when I am back at my computer.
I used threaded rubber rivets to secure the plate
 

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056F

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Nov 10, 2017
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Washington (State)
Took me a while to get to it, but I finally finished my version based on hardpipe's template. I didn't have a fancy laser cutter so I just printed it out, glued it to a piece of aluminum and cut it out with snips and tweaked it until it fit. I'll probably end up adding some more toggle switches later...

PXL_20210123_132041158.jpgPXL_20210123_130237184.jpg
 

hardpipe

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The easiest way to attach the rivets or bolt or whatever fastener you choose is to align the panel and drill small pilot holes into both the fairing and the metal, after you drill a hill put some wire or a temporary rivot or whatever. And drill the next hole repeating the process. This assures that everything stays aligned because the fasteners have to align perfectly with the fairing and the metal. Then you drill the correct size holes for whatever fastener you choose.

I used tuber rivets that have a threaded insert so I could use stainless steel screws on the face
 

056F

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Nov 10, 2017
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Washington (State)
How did fit? My design is based on the previous gen tenere
It was pretty close, It was a little while ago that I did the rough fitting but I think I added a little bit more clearance on the fork tubes, and I had to add a notch for a switch the previous owner had added for the aux lights that I kept.

The easiest way to attach the rivets or bolt or whatever fastener you choose is to align the panel and drill small pilot holes into both the fairing and the metal, after you drill a hill put some wire or a temporary rivot or whatever. And drill the next hole repeating the process. This assures that everything stays aligned because the fasteners have to align perfectly with the fairing and the metal. Then you drill the correct size holes for whatever fastener you choose.

I used tuber rivets that have a threaded insert so I could use stainless steel screws on the face
I also used rivnuts (which is, I believe, the same thing harpipe is describing), worked great here so I don't have to worry about getting a wrench on the underside. Mine are M4 with SS flange head screw.
 

arndtmp

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Jul 10, 2023
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33
Location
Virginia
Took me a while to get to it, but I finally finished my version based on hardpipe's template. I didn't have a fancy laser cutter so I just printed it out, glued it to a piece of aluminum and cut it out with snips and tweaked it until it fit. I'll probably end up adding some more toggle switches later...

View attachment 76370View attachment 76371
Whats the digital read out in the center? Tire pressure?
 
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