extended clutch line install - easy Qs

Eville Rich

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I'm in the middle of installing extended clutch and brake lines. Working on the clutch side for now. I've got the kit from RideOnAdv, going onto my 2016 S10.

I'm wondering about differences between the stock and extended lines, in terms of parts and installation. My kit only has the hoses and the crush washers. The stock hose has the rubber piece around the hose as well as a rubber guard adjacent to where the hard line connects. Do either of these stock pieces need to be used with the new line? Or can I just install the new line as-is without worry about abrasion. In taking things apart, I foolishly didn't take a pic and forgot whether or not the P clamp goes around the rubber guard (near the hard line junction).

So far the removal has gone better than expected. Install looks straight-forward other than these little details. Thanks for any help!

Eville Rich
2016 S10
2015 WR250R
 

Eville Rich

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Re: extended clutch line install


I decided to install the clutch line with just the RideOnAdv line. Seems fine. I was a little surprised at how good the clutch felt after the burp bleeding. Clearly it needed some. Maybe the line is a little more firm, too.

Brake line next.

Eville Rich
 

Thrasherg

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Glad to see it’s going well, just be sure not to get any brake fluid on your paintwork. Take your time and it should all be good

Gary
 

Gigitt

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I have done extended line on both my bikes.

Both times my Goodridge lines did not come with any rubber protection sleeves... so I made my own.

I used 6mm PVC Tubing, I cut 4-5in lengths then slice the tubing open with a diagonal cut - this makes a spiral or curl cut tube.
I then wrap this pvc spiral around the lines where I think it will wear. the spiral clings to the lines and does not need any glue or zip ties to keep it in place. The PVC is soft so it will not harm the lines and the edges will not cut or damage any electrical wrap either.

You can see how I used them on my S10 on the brake lines in the pic
 

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Eville Rich

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Re: extended clutch line install

Thanks for the pointer to the PVC wrap. I may go that route to complete the OCD.

Brake side install went pretty smoothly. Burp bleed was fine and a test ride showed it all working as expected and maybe better than before.

A few tips for others contemplating this job:
1) A 10mm flare wrench is essential. I never work on hydraulic fittings (cars only up to this point) without one.
2) A 17mm crescent wrench will be useful for the installation - the RideOnAdv lines have a 17mm nut. This allows for leverage to tighten things down.
3) An 8mm socket will help with removing the wire/hose retainers from the frame. You will want to do this to have flexibility in the tight and hard-to-see work space.
4) A 16mm crescent wrench was useful for holding the metal block that is a part of the brake hose. The metal block holds the hose to the frame, though a 8mm socket will remove it from the frame, easing access.
5) The hardest part is connecting the hard line to the new hose. This requires patience to get the right angle for the threads to catch. No different than any other hydraulic connection and not as bad as some. I had experience installing a clutch master cylinder on an old BMW, through the firewall. That job resulted in new curse words and combination that shocked even my sensibilities. The S10 job resulted in a few minor instances of the common cursing we're all accustomed to.
6) Take your time and don't rush it. I was glad I deliberately broke the job into smaller pieces and without a deadline. It went fast, particularly the brake side, but the right mental state helped.
7) Have a good supply of clean rags to catch or wipe drips. Brake fluid is very corrosive to paint. And don't forget to have some fresh DOT4 fluid on-hand.

Onward to bar risers and PVC wrap!

Eville Rich
 

steve68steve

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Thanks for taking the time to write this up.


Some person in the future who finds this post while searching prior to doing this job will be saved a bunch of time and hassle thanks to your time and effort.
 

Gigitt

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When working with brake fluid. Paint protection is a must as stated above.
Have old tags around and under the lines to catch the drops of fluid that will come out of the line when you undo them

BUT ALSO. have a bottle of water ready. If you do spill brake fluid you can neutralise it with water.
 

Thrasherg

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that does look like a tidy solution, I personally prefer to replace the entire line from the master cylinder down to the first splitter, I really don't like the idea of bolting on an extension. Just me!! How do you get the internal passage from one end of the extension to the other for the hydraulic fluid to pass down? I don't see any drilling holes? Just curious

Gary
 

AdvToorer

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Denver, CO - USA
I've completed the clutch side and also used PVC tubing to wrap the line where it mounts in the P-clip, as the new line is thinner than the OEM. I took the old black tubing off the OEM line and cut it in spiral fashion, using it as additional abrasion protection.

On the brake line, the mounting block is attached to the old line, my question is how to secure the line on the brake side? My plan is to source a P-clip liked used on the clutch side but haven't started search yet.
 

Thrasherg

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That's what I figured, but I couldn't see any signs of a plug where you welded up the hole!! Look very well made..

Gary
 

~TABASCO~

RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
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If anyone has any questions always feel free to contact me. I would be happy to help. Thank you
 

Gigitt

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ace50 said:
Looks like Gigitt tore the front of his bike off to put lines on! ???
No. Picture is for PVC wrap protection reference only was from my spotlight install when routing my wiring.

When I extended my lines I did not have to remove the headlight.
 

jrusell

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Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
I haven't seen a video of the install anywhere, but here are a couple of things that made my install easier.

Clutch side wanted to strip even with a flare wrench. Pain in the a** to work in that tight space so I decided to remove the entire line from slave cylinder to the master. I tied a string to the top banjo, removed top and bottom banjo and removed hard line and flexible line in one piece.
Much easier to layout the new line and make sure the banjo lines up correctly on the workbench than fighting it under the bodywork. Then just pull it back with the string, connect and bleed the system. I think there is one zip tie down low on the hard line that needs to be removed before the line is taken off.

On the brake side I found there was a bit more room to work. I didn't want to chance getting any air down into the ABS unit so I took a few other steps before removal to help in bleeding the system later on.

I removed both calipers and I then pumped the brakes a few times to let the pistons come out of the bores a few extra mm. Be very careful you don't go too far and pop the pistons out completely.

After you install the new line you can go to the calipers and push the pads apart completely. This will push brake fluid back up the lines to the master. In my case I ended up with a little fluid in the master and all the air removed from the new line. I still went ahead and did a full bleed of the brakes front and rear, but even before that I had a rock hard lever with no air in the new brake line.
 

John Ha

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I just did my brake line 0n my 2016. What a pain for a fellow with big hands! I ended up taking out the headlight assembly. It didn't really help much for physical access but did help me see what I was doing better. It was a major pain getting the flare nut to loosen. Too little room to turn the flare wrench and visibility was horrible. I had thought that leaving the block attached to the clamp would help but it didn't.

I removed the screw attaching the block to the frame, then stuck a small phillips screwdriver shaft in the block where the screw had been. I was finally able to remove the hard line fitting wtih that approach.

I started out with the new extended line routed through the hoop near the bars but was having trouble aligning the hard line fitting with the new hose end. So I just removed it from the hoop and rested it on something in there, then lined up the hard line fitting with the hose. That worked much better.

I was leery of the unsupported hard line and hose connection so I used a length of tubing and a rubber pinch clamp screwed into the mounting bracket to hold things steady. There's plenty of slack in the line at handlebar limitsn in both directions and the lines aren't moving around.

I was able to get everything tightened down well and got on to the upper end, which was no problem at all.

I was somewhat successful with the burp bleeding but after a time there were no more bubbles coming up and the brake lever did not feel right. So I put a hose on the right front caliper bleeder screw, opened the bleeder a bit, and pumped the lever through about 5 fills of the master cylinder. Once the bleeder screw was retightened, the lever felt much better.

Haven't put it all back together yet - waiting for some connectors to dry (after I was done bleeding I took it outside and drenched it with water to get rid of any brake fluid that might have spilled). Probably (hopefully) will finish up tomorrow and take a test ride.

I love the way it looks. Wish it had been easier to get there.

Kudos and props to Tabasco for coming up with these!

clamp.jpgclamp.jpg
 

Thrasherg

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I ended up adding a 4" extension to my front brake line (fitted 2" ROX risers) and wanted to through out how I did it. I unbolted the front right caliper and pumped the brake several times to get the pads to come together (not enough to pop the pistons out of the caliper), I then drained the brake fluid out of the master reservoir, unbolted the banjo bolt where the brake line meets the master reservoir. I then added the 4" extension bolting it to both the master cylinder and the old brake line. I then forced the brake pads apart with a couple of tyre levers, this caused the brake fluid to go back up the brake line and into the master reservoir, I then added more brake fluid to the master reservoir to bring it to the correct level. This approach meant that no air got into the brake line and I didn't need to bleed the brake system (always a hassle with an ABS system) and gave a very firm front brake!! Just a suggestion..

Gary
 

Rhyano27

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Hey Gang,
Bringing this thread back for a bit as I am in the process of adding the extended clutch and brake lines in my 2016 Tenere ES.

I have both extended lines installed, and am at the point where I am going to begin the bleeding process. I want to avoid getting air into the lines and I am concerned that the new lines do not have fluid in them and that if I start to add fluid to the reservoir that I will push the air down into the ABS system. I read in a few places about the 'Burp Method' of getting this air out of the new lines before proceeding with the usual brake line bleeding process.

I did a few searches for a 'how-to' for the Burp Bleeding process, but came back empty. Would anyone be willing to explain the hows and whys of this process? I think I can figure it out on my own, but having the piece of mind that I am doing things correctly would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance!
Ryan
 

~TABASCO~

RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
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Hey Gang,
Bringing this thread back for a bit as I am in the process of adding the extended clutch and brake lines in my 2016 Tenere ES.

I have both extended lines installed, and am at the point where I am going to begin the bleeding process. I want to avoid getting air into the lines and I am concerned that the new lines do not have fluid in them and that if I start to add fluid to the reservoir that I will push the air down into the ABS system. I read in a few places about the 'Burp Method' of getting this air out of the new lines before proceeding with the usual brake line bleeding process.

I did a few searches for a 'how-to' for the Burp Bleeding process, but came back empty. Would anyone be willing to explain the hows and whys of this process? I think I can figure it out on my own, but having the piece of mind that I am doing things correctly would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance!
Ryan
I like to fill the reservoir and then pull the levers. Keep doing this till it’s back to ‘brand new’. Air will rise, fluid will fall. Goes pretty quick!
 

Rhyano27

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Oct 19, 2019
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Madison, WI
Just want to clarify. So, fill the reservoir, pump/pull the lever, and this will help push the air back UP to the reservoir, thus getting the air out of the lines.

I'am also looking to do a complete brake system flush. So once this process is done, is it necessary to cap the reservoir, and depress the lever and leave the system pressurized for a period of time to help get the remaining air out of the system? Then proceed to bleed/flush the entire brake system with new fluid (also cycling the ABS system)?
 
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