pooh and xtine
Well-Known Member
This may be a silly question, but does anyone know what the clutch switch actually does?
Many thanks!
Many thanks!
What is the clutch lever switch for?
- Thread starter pooh and xtine
- Start date
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
Same as the side stand switch, tells the ecu to allow the bike to start or shut down, depending on the circuit, as a 'safety'................... Or I could be completely wrong ???
Dirt_Dad
Well-Known Member
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In the first generation of Tenere the clutch switch was an easter egg that when shorted out to the clutch lever pulled in position caused the bike to run smoother and have more power. Many of us installed buttons to short out the clutch switch. I ran with my first gen shorted out 99% of the time. There are old threads around here talking about the mod.
I don't know if the second gen does the same thing. Yamaha worked out the fueling much better on the second gen and I've never bothered trying.
I don't know if the second gen does the same thing. Yamaha worked out the fueling much better on the second gen and I've never bothered trying.
RicoChet
Member
I was able to start my Gen 2 with no clutch while in NeutralDogdaze said:
steve68steve
Active Member
I've never given it a lot of thought, but I suppose it's meant to prevent the engine from cranking in gear with the clutch out, which would lurch the bike forward as soon as the "start" button was pressed. That might cause a surprised rider to drop the bike.
jbrown
Active Member
Besides the safety input (don't start while in gear with the clutch out), the switch state is fed to the ECU and is used just like neutral as part of the gear to map selection for ignition timing and throttle by wire data. Shorting the switch always chooses the neutral map.
There is no direct map from gear to fuel mixture, so the clutch switch mod in Gen1 bikes does not directly change the fuel mixture. It does introduce a change in the throttle response since the throttle input mapping between neutral and each gear is significantly different.
For instance, in T mode - 1st gear, full throttle application at 4000 rpm maps to about 53 percent at the throttle body. Neutral will apply 100 percent in the same conditions.
Of primary importance to me is the significant drop at the rpm range and throttle input that I use when starting from a stop. The map change from neutral to the 1st gear map as you release the clutch changes the actual throttle body opening (drops it), giving the illusion of a dip in power as you start out. Different starting out techniques can diminish or accentuate the dip. I copied the 3rd gear throttle map to neutral, 1st, and 2nd on my Gen1 bike to remove that dip, and raise the upper end limit a bit in the first two gears.
Both Gen1 and Gen2 bikes use the input the same way, but the neutral throttle map on Gen2 bikes is much closer to the 1st gear map.
(This info comes from looking at the Flash Tune data for both bikes.)
There is no direct map from gear to fuel mixture, so the clutch switch mod in Gen1 bikes does not directly change the fuel mixture. It does introduce a change in the throttle response since the throttle input mapping between neutral and each gear is significantly different.
For instance, in T mode - 1st gear, full throttle application at 4000 rpm maps to about 53 percent at the throttle body. Neutral will apply 100 percent in the same conditions.
Of primary importance to me is the significant drop at the rpm range and throttle input that I use when starting from a stop. The map change from neutral to the 1st gear map as you release the clutch changes the actual throttle body opening (drops it), giving the illusion of a dip in power as you start out. Different starting out techniques can diminish or accentuate the dip. I copied the 3rd gear throttle map to neutral, 1st, and 2nd on my Gen1 bike to remove that dip, and raise the upper end limit a bit in the first two gears.
Both Gen1 and Gen2 bikes use the input the same way, but the neutral throttle map on Gen2 bikes is much closer to the 1st gear map.
(This info comes from looking at the Flash Tune data for both bikes.)
Dogdaze
Well-Known Member
What I meant was that you could start in gear with clutch pulled in, I should have been clearer...RicoChet said:
pooh and xtine
Well-Known Member
That's really useful, and explains the apparent dip in power when setting off. Do you have the Flash Tune data for the throttle restrictions in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears for the Gen2 bikes?jbrown said:
jbrown
Active Member
Yes. Once you have the Flash Tune software (and an account, I assume) you can download the stock ECU data for all the bikes they support, along with Flash Tune "unrestricted" ECU date for most (all?) of them. The site also has user shared ECU data. It used to be that you could download the software and data without having the hardware or an account, but I think you now need to have an account to do that. You can take a look at www.ftecu.com. There's a lot of gobbledygook in the "Terms and Conditions" page about single user non-transferable licenses, and what ECUs you have access to, so I don't know if I am allowed to share the data. But the neutral map on Gen2 bikes is much closer to the 1st gear map.pooh and xtine said:
You guys hit most of it. The one additional thing is that pulling the clutch with the cruise control engaged in Gen2 bikes will disconnect the cruise.
See Post #18 in this thread for an example of an ECU map and why shorting the clutch switch can also be hazardous.
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=22482.15
See Post #18 in this thread for an example of an ECU map and why shorting the clutch switch can also be hazardous.
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=22482.15
Basilton
New Member
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This is brilliant... I love intelligent design features like this! Now how do I go about doing this mod xD
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
I think clutch safety switches go back at least 30+ years. My ‘83 Interceptor was so equipped. Prevents starting in gear unless the clutch is pulled in, but does allow starting with the clutch out if the transmission is in neutral. Heck even the last couple of manual transmission cars I’ve owned have the same thing except you can’t even start them in neutral with the clutch pedal out. I think that’s probably because cars don’t have a neutral switch/light that the ECU can monitor.
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R
RonH
Guest
The safety thing is understood, but it goes further than that. On my 2012 shorting out the switch resulted in very jerky throttle response, which at first glance gave the impression of more power, but it actually cut power. It ran much better stock, despite the everlasting idea that stock had the restrictions that shorting the switch cancelled out. Bullony, the bike runs like crud with the switch fricked with at least here at 5400ft elevation.
You could ne right. The last auto that didn't have the safety switch was my '92 Wrangler. It would start in gear. I always expected to get a call from one of my kids telling me he forgot to push the clutch in, or didn't put it in neutral, and drove into another car; never got the call though.
gunslinger_006
Well-Known Member
Do you have a link? This is interesting enough that i might give it a try on my 2013
Edit: Nevermind. I found the thread. No way would i run this mod. 50deg of timing advance at wot? Noooo thanks.
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tallpaul
Well-Known Member
The clutch switch on the gen2 also kills the cruise control. I wouldn't mess with it.
Saint rob
Well-Known Member
Couldn't disagree with that Paul, although if the clutch switch works the same way as the brake switch in theory you could identify which 2 of the 4 wires act as the inhibitor and which 2 kill the cruise if you wanted to try the mod but it's not something I'll be doing.
Longdog Cymru
Well-Known Member
If you are using cruise control, then if you pull the clutch a little, it cancels cruise control and it is generally a “softer” way of doing that rather than using the cancel switch on the left switch gear.
*sorry, I have just noticed tallpaul has answered this already
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
This is my preferred way to cancel as it preserves the speed setting, letting you just hit resume to pick back up again. If you use the cancel (actually an off button) you have to reset your speed again. My cars have separate cancel and off buttons so you can cancel while maintaining the speed setting memory.