What you did to your Tenere today??!!

Sierra1

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Nov 7, 2016
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Joshua TX
They're what I would want in the dirt. They're a chunkier version of what came on my wife's TW 200.
 

twinrider

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Sep 28, 2011
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Yokohama
I had a laam on my fjr. It was a nice seat. I tried several times contacting him about doing one for the tenere and never got any response. That was 5 months ago. I got Terry adcox to build mine and he answers messages within an hour or so. Very responsive and a nice seat also. Just got it a few days ago.
I tried a Laam seat well. Spent a lot of time discussing what I wanted with him (flat seat that doesn't force me to sit back into a pocket) and he sent me a seat that forced me to sit back into a pocket. Sent it back to get reworked, but it was pretty much the same. Sold it and got a Seat Concepts, which worked better. On my current S10 I'm running a Terry seat, best seat yet by far.

FWIW, my Helibar risers bolted on no problem with the brake line extension that they include. Nothing else needed.
 

Alexander

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Mar 8, 2020
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Kansas City
Trying to finish up what will be the final mods I'll ever do to this bike.

-Added Garmin GPS (Zumo XT)
-Happy Trails pannier rack + tool rack + tail plate with 3" riser
-cheapo 8" LED light bar and two 3" pod lights (1 flood 1 spot) from Harbor Freight for about $100 OTD -- too cheap to pass up, and...
-front/rear sliders from T-Rex that I probably didn't need

I was torn between Bumots and Caribou cases, but ended up going with Happy Trails Teton 9" clif-cut (which should deliver next week), as Mak10 originally suggested to me in my first post here. Function over form. Couldn't justify spending twice the price for what amounts to an aesthetic improvement when the 2019 Tenere isn't a show bike to begin with -- I just wanted something cheap (replaceable), tough, and watertight. Probably could have gotten by with some cheaper Tusk cases for my needs, but I like the latches on the HT more, and the price is excellent for the quality so far.

Didn't have mounts to install the LED pod lights to the crash bars, so I mounted to the forks temporarily -- what I call the "don't drop the bike" mod. The 8" light bar comes on with the high beams, but I also added independent switches to the handlebars so I can turn on the light bar or the pod lights independently (diodes preventing back-feeding to the high beam circuit). Been using the pod lights during the day to make me more visible to cagers. Swore to myself I'd never do the light bar, as it makes the bike look like an angry monkey face, but decided function over form again. I do lose 1" of suspension travel with the light bar, but I live in flat-as-a-pancake Kansas -- not really doing any "sweet jumps" on 90% city roads and 10% gravel country roads -- if I decide to do any real off-roading, I can disconnect and remove the light bar in about 3 minutes.

The 3" riser on the tail plate was proud of the pillion seat -- no bueno for the girlfriend's tailbone, so I replaced the included spacers with 1/2" shorter ones from the homeless despot (home depot) to make it flush. Still need to locate some smaller cases for the two tool rack locations, and start adding some tools to the bike.

[/rant]

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EricV

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Version 2 :p
As long as it works for you, who cares what anyone else thinks? Besides, you have a giant ladybug bike bell on there too, so most people will smile, not make fun.
 

EricV

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I plug it but with no glue which most of the times works
More reaming and glue. It can be a pain to re-do a bonded in sticky string. I've just used a drill to drill out the first attempt sticky string so I could re-do it. Try to center the drill on the leak, if you can identify it with some soapy water. No need to attempt to remove it all either, just a small drill bit which will make a nice clean hole, hopefully centered on the slow leak.
 

elricfate

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Aug 29, 2019
Messages
380
Location
Ohio
Way back when I got the bike last Septemberish, I put small zip ties on the spokes, front and back, just in case they came loose.

I went in yesterday and actually torqued down the spokes, just to get them back into spec (like 2k miles since I bought it at the dealership, so not many) - two of the spokes on the rear wheel were so loose that they wouldn't even engage the stop on the torque wrench to move it in the opposite direction for tightening (think spinning in place loose). All the spokes on the front wheel were already at spec

Glad I took the time to finally check/torque them down, also really glad (no matter how many times I got asked why I did it, maybe because I used neon orange zip ties) I put the little zip ties on each spoke bundle.

I forgot I had a 1/4" torque wrench on hand that did in-lbs - so I had to get a 1/4" female to 3/8" male adapter to put my 5" ball end 5mm hex socket on.
 

Top Ten

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Joined
Aug 24, 2018
Messages
105
Location
Rockwall, Texas
2018 ST, non-ES, 15,000 miles:

Oil change, Shell Rotella T6 15W40
Oil filter change, Yamaha OEM filter
Final drive oil change, Yamaha Drive Shaft Oil Exclusive
Install Gold Plug final drive fill and drain magnetic plugs
Clean/grease shift pedal pivot shaft, Bel Ray waterproof grease
Clean/grease brake pedal pivot shaft, Bel Ray
Checked/re-torqued front and rear wheel spokes, 53 in/lb
Four new spark plugs, NGK CPR8EB-9
Installed non-factory O-rings under each coil "umbrella" for water block
Throttle-body adjustment to one full turn out, then balance (previously set at 3/4 turn out)
150-mile test ride, runs good
 

bimota

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Dec 10, 2017
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bridgend, Wales, UK
Way back when I got the bike last Septemberish, I put small zip ties on the spokes, front and back, just in case they came loose.

I went in yesterday and actually torqued down the spokes, just to get them back into spec (like 2k miles since I bought it at the dealership, so not many) - two of the spokes on the rear wheel were so loose that they wouldn't even engage the stop on the torque wrench to move it in the opposite direction for tightening (think spinning in place loose). All the spokes on the front wheel were already at spec

Glad I took the time to finally check/torque them down, also really glad (no matter how many times I got asked why I did it, maybe because I used neon orange zip ties) I put the little zip ties on each spoke bundle.

I forgot I had a 1/4" torque wrench on hand that did in-lbs - so I had to get a 1/4" female to 3/8" male adapter to put my 5" ball end 5mm hex socket on.
can you get away with using the smallest cable ties in the middle like these i think 100mm x 2.5mm

rob
 

elricfate

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moto.monk

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los angeles
More reaming and glue. It can be a pain to re-do a bonded in sticky string. I've just used a drill to drill out the first attempt sticky string so I could re-do it. Try to center the drill on the leak, if you can identify it with some soapy water. No need to attempt to remove it all either, just a small drill bit which will make a nice clean hole, hopefully centered on the slow leak.
I did it again and its holding perfectly. Sometimes the hole is at an angle so the plug might not sit right if you dont rem it at the right angle. Also the belt might get in the way of finding the right angle.
 
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fac191

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Rob, when you do it don't pull the ties too tight, just want them tight enough to stop one flailing around if it comes loose.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk
Glad you put that up. I didn't really consider the spokes need to flex.
 

EricV

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Glad you put that up. I didn't really consider the spokes need to flex.
@yoyo is spot on. I've read some reports of stress cracks on spokes because people snugged them up tight. I put mine on just a tad loose for that reason.
 
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