Author Topic: Running better after new battery?  (Read 269 times)

Offline Tommy Tickle

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Running better after new battery?
« on: October 10, 2017, 08:16:07 am »
I replaced standard battery with 14s uprated one,before the bike wasn't pulling clean up to 3k revs,ide balanced throttle bodies and done the air screw three quarter turn out bit,but before battery change it still wasn't right.my question is this,has changing battery altered mapping or some thing? Maybe gone back to a default? Cos its running a lot better,or am I losing the plot?

Offline The Mountain

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Re: Running better after new battery?
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2017, 08:43:19 am »
I'll preface this by saying that I don't know much about the computer in these bikes, but pulling the battery is going to force the bike to reset to defaults, and then re-poll every sensor on the bike. If you made adjustments, it could be that the computer couldn't properly compensate for them previously, and the complete poweroff allowed it to make the corrections your adjustments were supposed to initiate. I also don't know exactly how big the battery on the S10 is, but if yours was getting weak, that could also have affected the computer; incorrect voltages are the root of electronic problems, since the computer relies on certain voltage outputs from sensors and other components to be able to tell what the bike is doing. If the voltages are wrong, the computer can't make correct decisions.

Offline Checkswrecks

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Re: Running better after new battery?
« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2017, 09:25:23 am »
Mr. Mountain has captured a lot of it.


The OEM battery is a YTZ12S with 11 AH and 210 CCA. The replacement is a YTZ14S with the exact same dimensions at 11.2 AH and 230 CCA. The standard AGM batteries do great and last a long time. We've found over time that there is an improvement and there is zero reason to stay with the YTZ12S.


These big twins take a lot of current to start and can have trouble providing enough for the ECU and ignition when all the power is turning the starter motor. When the battery is really low during a start or is disconnected, everything resets to baseline. The easiest way to see this is that you will need to reset the clock, but you will also lose any fault codes and other stored memory.


If once the engine is running you have issues at higher rpm when the alternator is making power and not running off of the battery, it may be time to clean the connections. Especially now with a Gen1 bike which may have been built up to 6+ years ago.
Damascus, MD
XTZ1200, KTM 690R

Offline 2daMax

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Re: Running better after new battery?
« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2017, 01:08:40 am »
Perhaps the 12s battery is just worn and old and it is being an extra load to the system to continuously charge it for longer periods to restore it to full charge, and this load causes the other sensors to show slightly incorrect readings for the ECU. 

In my personal experience, adding Capacitors in parallel to the battery makes a vehicle to be more responsive.  I can't quantify it but I know that it is more responsive.  I added a 10k uF to my Corolla, and it did better than before.  Recently added 4X 22k uF to the S10 and noted that the pickup response is better.  They are inexpensive items and also give additional CCA to the battery for start up.

in addition, I noticed, adding a 8 AWG grounding cable on my car's alternator to the Negative of the battery also felt it is more responsive.  Remove it, and it is not so anymore.  So I left it there till today.  YMMV.
Current: 2012 Super Tenere - White/Red Speedblocks
Previous:
2011 to 2015 - Kawasaki Versys 650 2011
2010 to 2011 - Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2008

Offline Checkswrecks

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Re: Running better after new battery?
« Reply #4 on: October 11, 2017, 10:11:29 am »
Electricity always looks for the easiest place to flow, so if the starter motor is engaged and the 12S battery is older so it can't store the original amount of energy, then the voltage drops to less than what the ECU and ignition need to function. The 14S battery simply adds lead and acid so that it can store more energy. Since it holds more it can generally age a lot longer before the capacity diminishes to the point where you have a problem. Since cold temps can diminish performance, the 14S is also better for cold morning starts. On a trivia note, batteries are sized for the electric system and it would not be good to stick a huge car battery in, because it would never get to fully re-charge and you'd diminish battery life.


Of course, your 8 AWG ground wire would improve starter performance. It's a fatter tube to flow more energy from the starter back to the battery. It's a good mod which can't hurt.


Love your attitude toward trying new things and don't want to rain on it but before others try adding capacitors, I'd encourage investigation. Capacitors dump their energy very quickly, so yes your parallel caps may give the starter a touch more snap initially, but then they too are a drag on your charging system. They also add a parasitic leak and each one introduces a new failure mode. In some high tech vehicles, capacitors are part of an engineered system to provide power, but these are far beyond what you describe. I've seen a lot of smarter people than me show how using the same weight penalty in adding battery size makes more sense for starting vehicles, so just installing the 14S battery would give you the same results or better. And it's easier.




Damascus, MD
XTZ1200, KTM 690R

 

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