Author Topic: Clutch basket change questions.  (Read 455 times)

Offline Dogdaze

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Re: Clutch basket change questions.
« Reply #15 on: October 11, 2017, 01:40:54 pm »
It will, once you take of the clutch case (16? ) bolts, then there is a further 5 nuts that retain the diaphragm spring, once that is off then the nut will be seen......
As I get older, I am no longer surprised at what I know, I'm surprised at how much I don't know.

Offline fraserdog

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Re: Clutch basket change questions.
« Reply #16 on: October 11, 2017, 03:05:46 pm »
I must sound like a right biffa,i am quite a competent mechanic and a toolmaker by trade but the bit i can't get my head round is that the way the clutch basket  is cast the "castellations" have a cast ring around them which is stopping the new tool sliding down far enough for the inner part of the tool to engage with the inner clutch splines or that is what it looks like might happen.
« Last Edit: October 11, 2017, 03:31:26 pm by fraserdog »

Offline fraserdog

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Re: Clutch basket change questions.
« Reply #17 on: October 11, 2017, 03:32:17 pm »
Has anyone used the EBC type of clutch holding tool?

Offline Dogdaze

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Re: Clutch basket change questions.
« Reply #18 on: October 11, 2017, 03:43:50 pm »
I must sound like a right biffa,i am quite a competent mechanic and a toolmaker by trade but the bit i can't get my head round is that the way the clutch basket  is cast the "castellations" have a cast ring around them which is stopping the new tool sliding down far enough for the inner part of the tool to engage with the inner clutch splines or that is what it looks like might happen.

It does not need to get far down the 'teeth' as the lever/ handle would not allow it to go further anyway because of the clutch housing. Trust.
As I get older, I am no longer surprised at what I know, I'm surprised at how much I don't know.

Offline fraserdog

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Re: Clutch basket change questions.
« Reply #19 on: October 11, 2017, 03:49:23 pm »
Sounds good,i just had it in my mind that to hold it properly it would have to be at least half way down the basket as the nut it supposed to be so tight,won't be doing the job now for a month or so now due to other commitments  :(,typical got all the bits now but no time.

Offline Dogdaze

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Re: Clutch basket change questions.
« Reply #20 on: October 11, 2017, 03:53:06 pm »
Don't worry, gives you time to re-read the install again and familiarise yourself with it, by then it should only take you 30-40 mins to do it.
As I get older, I am no longer surprised at what I know, I'm surprised at how much I don't know.

Offline fraserdog

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Re: Clutch basket change questions.
« Reply #21 on: October 11, 2017, 03:54:37 pm »
I should be able to do it blindfold by then  :)

Offline EricV

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Re: Clutch basket change questions.
« Reply #22 on: October 11, 2017, 04:59:14 pm »
I should be able to do it blindfold by then  :)

Please use all of your senses while doing the install, just stop thinking about it so much.  Pull the cover off, watch for the two dowel pins and keep them retained in either the cover or the case.  Remove the six flange bolts that retain the clutch spring and pressure plate assembly.  Pull the clutch friction disks and plates out.  Remove the short push rod if you haven't already.  Note it's placement in the order of parts.

Now use a punch to push out the divit on the center locking nut, Then place the EBC tool over the splines of the primary driven gear, ("clutch hub"), rotate until it rests against the frame, apply impact wrench with 30mm socket to center nut.  Remove nut, washer and clutch boss and carefully set aside.

Lift out primary driven gear, ("clutch hub"), taking special note of the bearings and other bits on the shaft.  Some may stay on the shaft, or may come out with the clutch hub.

Swap the last disk from the old part to the new part, using special care with the retaining circlip so as to avoid damaging it.  This is noted in the FSM as a replace item during service, but it can safely be re-used.

Reinstall in reverse order.  And yes, I've done this a couple of times, using the EBC tool.  You will need it again when you torque the nut down.
 
If you don't have the FSM, there is a suggested sequence to tightening the bolts in stages on the cover to avoid warpage.  Consider it similar to wheel lug nuts on a car, crossing back and forth as you work around the perimeter.

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