Author Topic: Throttle body sync for 2015 model  (Read 3512 times)

Offline Riteris

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TB sync on a 2015
« Reply #15 on: August 12, 2017, 11:15:16 am »
Hi all,

I know that there are dozens of pages here about synchronizing throttle bodies. Unfortunately, those threads have become muddled with information about both Generation one and Generation two bikes, as well as other chatter.

I have read conflicting information about how much to turn out the throttle screws on a Gen 2 bike.

Could we get some guidance from those with experience:



1) Should the throttle body screws on a Generation 2 US bike be turned out 270 degrees or is it something different?


2) Is this something that SHOULD be done on a Generation 2 bike?


THANK YOU!


Cheers,

Chris
Cheers,

Chris

Offline Checkswrecks

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Re: Throttle body sync for 2015 model
« Reply #16 on: August 12, 2017, 11:48:01 am »
Merged identical topics.
As I answered Riteris on ADV:

3/4 will work for the Gen2 but there's a different point where it's smoothest. It's discussed, starting with Post 447 in this thread:
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=1973.435


Bottom line was that ride34fun found 1/4 turn worked better then more of us found less as well. Somewhere between 1/8 to 1/2 turn is the sweet spot. For example, see Post #11 here:http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=17494.msg260937#msg260937

Damascus, MD
XTZ1200, KTM 690R

Offline mebgardner

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Re: Throttle body sync for 2015 model
« Reply #17 on: August 15, 2017, 11:38:33 am »
Remember that you want hoses of equal length to your Carbmate/manometer/etc, which is why the extension for the other side.

I closely read the "other" (now 34 page) thread, and could not find reference to what you're referring to in this quote.

I see the various pictures of the "T" setup, OK no problems there for me.

I read various posts suggesting 1/8" rubber "windshield wiper" hose, or 1/8" plastic hose, or 5/32" hose, OK I can sort that out (I'll use your suggestion, and find the 1/8" variety).

Various posts suggest checking the clear plastic "nipples" under the airbox, looking for water and / or oil, and clean them out if you find it, OK good can do.

Various posts suggest to replace the OEM rubber nipple vacuum caps on the TB's, because they wear out and then leak, OK good, I can check that too.

Various posts suggest not laving the "T" setup in place between services, because it could be a source of vacuum leak, OK good tip.

The thing that eludes me is, what length hoses to use, and where, so to make "...hoses of equal length" to the manometer?

I could not find that info.

Thanks!
2016 ST, Non-ES, Power Commander PCFC, Seat Concepts, Rox 2" Risers w/ OEM lines, Aux: ADVMonster 44W LEDS and Dimmer, HL: NightEye H7 50W LEDs, Eastern Beaver CS3, Givi TN355 crash bars, Skene Designs Photon Blaster LEDs, Knight Design Wide Hunter lowering pegs, Denali SoundBlaster w/ Twisted Throttle horn mount, SW Motech Evo Side Racks, Saddleman X-Jumbo Cruiser Soft Bags, Hepco Becker Rear Rack, Hepco Becker Junior 45 Rear Top Case, MRA X-creen Tour, OEM reg. shield and bracket, OEM side wind deflectors, RideOn Tire additive, 0.55 in. LED eBay Voltmeter, Battery tender. Hit-Air Airbag Vest, Motoport 3/4 Length 3 Layer Jacket with Quad Armor Upgrade, EVS G6 Mesh Armor (summer), Revit 2 Layer Mesh Pants, A* Corozal Boots, Shoei Hornet X2.

Offline Checkswrecks

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Re: Throttle body sync for 2015 model
« Reply #18 on: August 15, 2017, 01:24:18 pm »
Just try to be as equal as you can for length between the throttle bodies to the two sides of whatever you are using to measure.
The left throttle body requires a T, which adds a bit of length on it's own. Some people's definition for "a bit of length" can be a lot.
Damascus, MD
XTZ1200, KTM 690R

Offline mebgardner

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Re: Throttle body sync for 2015 model
« Reply #19 on: August 15, 2017, 02:17:12 pm »
Just try to be as equal as you can for length between the throttle bodies to the two sides of whatever you are using to measure.
The left throttle body requires a T, which adds a bit of length on it's own. Some people's definition for "a bit of length" can be a lot.

OK, understood.

Here's what I'll do then. Since I don't know if the left TB OEM hose length is a critical length, I'll measure it. Then, I'll set it aside for re-installation after test complete.

Using that length measure, I'll deduct the "T" length from it (installed length), and then I'll cut a bit of 1/8" hose to match that final length.

Then, cut it in half, insert the "T", and re-measure. It should be the same length as the OEM bit.

OK, then measure and cut hose bits to the manometer such that all lengths of it are equal *to the TB tip".  That could be important.

Said another way, each manometer leg will be of equal length to the TB connection point.  On the left side, that includes the "T" arm and the bit of hose to the left TB. On the right, it's the length of connection direct to the right TB.

That should do it :)

I'll post up later what I measure.
2016 ST, Non-ES, Power Commander PCFC, Seat Concepts, Rox 2" Risers w/ OEM lines, Aux: ADVMonster 44W LEDS and Dimmer, HL: NightEye H7 50W LEDs, Eastern Beaver CS3, Givi TN355 crash bars, Skene Designs Photon Blaster LEDs, Knight Design Wide Hunter lowering pegs, Denali SoundBlaster w/ Twisted Throttle horn mount, SW Motech Evo Side Racks, Saddleman X-Jumbo Cruiser Soft Bags, Hepco Becker Rear Rack, Hepco Becker Junior 45 Rear Top Case, MRA X-creen Tour, OEM reg. shield and bracket, OEM side wind deflectors, RideOn Tire additive, 0.55 in. LED eBay Voltmeter, Battery tender. Hit-Air Airbag Vest, Motoport 3/4 Length 3 Layer Jacket with Quad Armor Upgrade, EVS G6 Mesh Armor (summer), Revit 2 Layer Mesh Pants, A* Corozal Boots, Shoei Hornet X2.

Offline 2daMax

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Re: Throttle body sync for 2015 model
« Reply #20 on: August 16, 2017, 07:01:46 am »
Manometer tubes design to which I had made and sync'ed more than 10 times.

Bills of material:
1. 4mm ID clear tubes (aquarium shop sells them) - at least 8 feet.
2. T joint 4mm.
3. Wooden beam or plastic pipe pole at least 2.5' long
4. Cable ties.
5. Oil - ATF is red and is good for viewing.

Assembly

1.  Cut out the tube of about 1.5" to 2" and attach it to the T joint.
2. Remaining tube, find the half way point.  Mark it.
3. Place the tube so that it forms a "U" shape and with 2.5 feet on both sides, cable tie to the Pole/Beam.  Create a vertically positioned tube.  The halfway Mark should be right at the bottom of the pole, at the lowest point of the "U".
4. Fill in with ATF so that both sides are about 12 inches level height.
5. Now u have 2 free open ends of the tube.  One end, connect to the T joint.  This end goes to the Left TB.  The other end goes to the Right TB.

Sync'ing.  (I remember clearly as I just did the Sync on 10 Super Tenere's that visited me last weekend).

1. Check the air screws for a paint mark.  The painted screw is the reference screw and is fully closed in.  I have seen UK, US, Japan, Aussie specs S10 and they can be on either side.  Confirm that the screw is fully closed in.  Position the manometer at the opposite side of the reference screw because you will need visual of the levels as you adjust the other screw.
2. Connect the manometer to the TB.  For Left Side TB, remove the MAP sensor black hose, then connect the black hose to the T joint, while the clear hose connects to the barb.  Connect the clear hose on the other TB.
2. Start and warm the bike to 80 C.
3. Open up the reference screw 3/4 turn or in my case, 1/2 turn.  You can do this as the temperature rises.
4. Watch the levels on the 2 sides.  They maybe inches off from each other.  As the temp approaches 80C, the difference in level will stabilie.  Adjust the other screw until the levels are equal.
5. Remove hoses, and replace back the MAP sensor hose and rubber cap.
6. Optionally, you can adjust the CO setting.

Notes:
1. Use a long nose plier to wiggle free the MAP sensor hose if it is tight.  Do the same for the Right Side TB rubber plug.  If the rubber plug cracks, temporary I will use the 4mm clear hose and cut it short and force in a M4 bolt.
Current: 2012 Super Tenere - White/Red Speedblocks
Previous:
2011 to 2015 - Kawasaki Versys 650 2011
2010 to 2011 - Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2008

Offline Checkswrecks

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Re: Throttle body sync for 2015 model
« Reply #21 on: August 16, 2017, 11:38:38 am »
Thanks!
Damascus, MD
XTZ1200, KTM 690R

Offline mebgardner

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Re: Throttle body sync for 2015 model
« Reply #22 on: August 16, 2017, 12:13:13 pm »
Very Clever. You continue to Impress. Thanks for This.

I sure wish you had posted this before I spent all that cash on a store bought manometer. Oh Well, the next guy benefits.

Thank You, 2DaMax!
2016 ST, Non-ES, Power Commander PCFC, Seat Concepts, Rox 2" Risers w/ OEM lines, Aux: ADVMonster 44W LEDS and Dimmer, HL: NightEye H7 50W LEDs, Eastern Beaver CS3, Givi TN355 crash bars, Skene Designs Photon Blaster LEDs, Knight Design Wide Hunter lowering pegs, Denali SoundBlaster w/ Twisted Throttle horn mount, SW Motech Evo Side Racks, Saddleman X-Jumbo Cruiser Soft Bags, Hepco Becker Rear Rack, Hepco Becker Junior 45 Rear Top Case, MRA X-creen Tour, OEM reg. shield and bracket, OEM side wind deflectors, RideOn Tire additive, 0.55 in. LED eBay Voltmeter, Battery tender. Hit-Air Airbag Vest, Motoport 3/4 Length 3 Layer Jacket with Quad Armor Upgrade, EVS G6 Mesh Armor (summer), Revit 2 Layer Mesh Pants, A* Corozal Boots, Shoei Hornet X2.

Offline Checkswrecks

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Re: Throttle body sync for 2015 model
« Reply #23 on: August 16, 2017, 12:21:41 pm »
To give a visual image of what 2DaMax is talking about. It's much more involved and takes longer than pulling out a CarbMate or manometer, but it works and is cheap. The tubing I used was about 20 ft long.
Damascus, MD
XTZ1200, KTM 690R

 

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