Author Topic: How I swapped my CCT  (Read 6825 times)

Online RonH

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Re: How I swapped my CCT
« Reply #45 on: December 01, 2017, 10:34:16 pm »
Good point. Hope that is the case. It can't hurt.
2017 Super Tenere 1200ES, 2008 Honda GL1800 Goldwing

Offline mebgardner

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Re: How I swapped my CCT
« Reply #46 on: December 04, 2017, 12:27:12 pm »

The wedge will keep the cams from jumping while you've got the tensioner out. When you've got the new tensioner in you can remove the wedge, the cocked tensioner should protrude far enough to keep the chain on the cams till you trigger the tensioner.

Is this true?  No offense, but I'm not seeing it yet.

I have just the OEM tensioner "old OEM to new OEM", same variety, in view with this ongoing question.

It's this statement I'm questioning: "...the cocked tensioner should protrude far enough to keep the chain on the cams till you trigger the tensioner."

So, let's say the wedge is in place before removing the old OEM tensioner. Then, the old OEM tensioner is removed. The new OEM tensioner is prepared. It has it's plunger completely depressed, awaiting insertion.  The new tensioner is inserted, and bolted in place, but not released. *The wedge is removed*. The guide is struck to trigger the new OEM tensioner...

At that point, I think the chain can flop around.

What am I missing here?
2016 ST, Non-ES, Power Commander PCFC, Seat Concepts, Rox 2" Risers w/ OEM lines, Aux: ADVMonster 44W LEDS and Dimmer, HL: NightEye H7 50W LEDs, Eastern Beaver CS3, Givi TN355 crash bars, Skene Designs Photon Blaster LEDs, Knight Design Wide Hunter lowering pegs, Denali SoundBlaster w/ Twisted Throttle horn mount, SW Motech Evo Side Racks, Saddleman X-Jumbo Cruiser Soft Bags, Hepco Becker Rear Rack, Hepco Becker Junior 45 Rear Top Case, MRA X-creen Tour, OEM reg. shield and bracket, OEM side wind deflectors, RideOn Tire additive, 0.55 in. LED eBay Voltmeter, Battery tender. Hit-Air Airbag Vest, Motoport 3/4 Length 3 Layer Jacket with Quad Armor Upgrade, EVS G6 Mesh Armor (summer), Revit 2 Layer Mesh Pants, A* Corozal Boots, Shoei Hornet X2.

Offline scott123007

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Re: How I swapped my CCT
« Reply #47 on: December 04, 2017, 12:56:27 pm »
At that point, I think the chain can flop around.

What am I missing here?

I think you're right and not missing anything. If the new CCT fully retracted was enough to keep the chain from jumping teeth, there would never have been the failures people have had from bad tensioners. The bolt as a holder is no different than a zip tie, because it still has to be removed to set the tensioner. I explained the procedure a few post back why OEM to OEM was not a good idea without removing the valve cover. That is not to say it can't be done because I did it with just the clutch cover removed and a zip tie around the chain and chain guide and then releasing it before setting the tensioner.  Apparently RonH did it without holding anything and he was successful. That tells me that there IS a point of cam rotation that is " friendly"  to CCT removal BUT there is no way of knowing what that is without removing the valve cover. RonH, myself, and anyone else that have done it without removing the valve cover and tying the chain to the cam sprockets, have just been on the lucky end of a crap shoot.
« Last Edit: December 04, 2017, 01:04:48 pm by scott123007 »

Offline mebgardner

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Re: How I swapped my CCT
« Reply #48 on: December 04, 2017, 02:00:53 pm »
I think you're right and not missing anything. If the new CCT fully retracted was enough to keep the chain from jumping teeth, there would never have been the failures people have had from bad tensioners. The bolt as a holder is no different than a zip tie, because it still has to be removed to set the tensioner. I explained the procedure a few post back why OEM to OEM was not a good idea without removing the valve cover. That is not to say it can't be done because I did it with just the clutch cover removed and a zip tie around the chain and chain guide and then releasing it before setting the tensioner.  Apparently RonH did it without holding anything and he was successful. That tells me that there IS a point of cam rotation that is " friendly"  to CCT removal BUT there is no way of knowing what that is without removing the valve cover. RonH, myself, and anyone else that have done it without removing the valve cover and tying the chain to the cam sprockets, have just been on the lucky end of a crap shoot.

I hear you with these comments.

Let me offer this, another different possible solution no one has mentioned yet.

Again, I have only the OEM to OEM change viewpoint, in view.

So, the point is to contain the timing chain from jumping cog teeth during the changeover. I pose that, if the chain can be contained in a manner that does not allow for that to occur, we would have a "win".

How about this? Is there room within the chain teeth, at a point that can be accessed with just the clutch cover removed, where a zip tie can be inserted *in / through the teeth* and across the gap (chain going up .vs chain going down) such that the zip can be pulled tight and not expect it to slip?

That is, somewhere accessible, put a zip across the gap in the chain, and put the zip through the teeth of the chain. Then, pull tight and capture the chain across the cogs above. Voila! You no longer care about the slack below it (as long as the chain does not jump the crank cog either). Have as much chain slack as you want below the point where the chain is captured (but, don't jump the crank cog!)

R+R the OEM tensioner, smack the guide, whatever.

Once done, release the captured chain.

I understand this is similar to what has been already suggested, but there's a subtle difference: Hold the chain tight around the upper cogs. Concentrate on that feature.

What do you think?
2016 ST, Non-ES, Power Commander PCFC, Seat Concepts, Rox 2" Risers w/ OEM lines, Aux: ADVMonster 44W LEDS and Dimmer, HL: NightEye H7 50W LEDs, Eastern Beaver CS3, Givi TN355 crash bars, Skene Designs Photon Blaster LEDs, Knight Design Wide Hunter lowering pegs, Denali SoundBlaster w/ Twisted Throttle horn mount, SW Motech Evo Side Racks, Saddleman X-Jumbo Cruiser Soft Bags, Hepco Becker Rear Rack, Hepco Becker Junior 45 Rear Top Case, MRA X-creen Tour, OEM reg. shield and bracket, OEM side wind deflectors, RideOn Tire additive, 0.55 in. LED eBay Voltmeter, Battery tender. Hit-Air Airbag Vest, Motoport 3/4 Length 3 Layer Jacket with Quad Armor Upgrade, EVS G6 Mesh Armor (summer), Revit 2 Layer Mesh Pants, A* Corozal Boots, Shoei Hornet X2.